I'll have to check the STL files to see how he isolates the sensors...
You can slim it down a ton if all you want is a (super sophisticated) shutter tester, without all the light source/light meter testing stuff. My current setup fits in the palm of my hand and can be powered with 5V USBIf it just wasn't so big, I'd definitely be tempted to build one.
JLCPCB, minimum order for the boards was 5 so I have extras. Pus I also had the sensor holders 3d printed by them
I don't have a clue about any of it, so I had to look it up. I guess the resin drips down as the model is formed.The sensor holder that I had done where done in resin so a bit more dimensional accurate.
I met the guy, Serhiy Rozum, who made that light source. We met at Mazzetti’s, a bakery that makes great cakes and donuts but their coffee is just average. We chatted a bit about the light source
Im am not, ive just been following the discussion there. I'm one of the admins on the "Learn Camera Repair" group on Facebook. Ive been a professional camera repair tech for over 30 years.Are you "polygonfuture" on the Github discussion board?
Im am not, ive just been following the discussion there. I'm one of the admins on the "Learn Camera Repair" group on Facebook. Ive been a professional camera repair tech for over 30 years.
I don't have a clue about any of it, so I had to look it up. I guess the resin drips down as the model is formed.
Have you printed or have someone print the sensor #6 components? its very hard to get the parts together (this maybe due to my printer, but everything else ive printed is dimensionally accurate).Are you "polygonfuture" on the Github discussion board?
I don't have a clue about any of it, so I had to look it up. I guess the resin drips down as the model is formed.
I wonder what kind of sensor he uses? Ic-racer can you point me to which sensor he uses?
I’m not on facebook but hope you can contribute here too!Im am not, ive just been following the discussion there. I'm one of the admins on the "Learn Camera Repair" group on Facebook. Ive been a professional camera repair tech for over 30 years.
I do have a Kyoritsu EF-5000, but that is starting to fail [...]
I have, the problem however is within the sensor. I borrowed a sensor from a friend that also has a EF5000 and determined my sensor unit is on its last legs.You might try replacing all the electrolytic capacitors in the Kyoritsu, as they're probably drying out from age. Then you'll have two working shutter-speed testers.
Mark
I made a list of all the items that don't have a supplier's number listed in the BOM. I spent over a week just going through all the Github files to make this list and it still might not be complete. Haven't spent much time actually searching for the items yet.
Scavenger Hunt List:
LD24AJTA (LED driver board)
Rotary Switch
Push Switch 12x12x7.3 12127.3
Knob 20x13
12x12x7.3 cap 3 colors
9P M JST XH2.54 Connector with wires attached
6P M JST XH2.54 w/ 26AWG Wire
4P M JST XH2.54 Connector with wires attached
2P M JST XH2.54 Connector with wires attached
2P M JST PH2.0 w/ 22AWG 15cm Wire
LD24AJTA (LED driver board)
10W heatsink with FAN
SIC553-04/PIC0903SL
TSL237 photodiode (sensor #6)
ArduinoNanoATmega328P
active buzzer 2300Hz 5v
GX16x6 Male -connector
GX16x6 Femae -connector
LCD2004A / PCF8574T LCD screen
Device Enclosure; Horizontal
12V Power Supply
3D Printed Parts
24AWG 4 Core UL2464 Cable 0.8m
24AWG 6 Core UL2464 Cable 0.8m
1/4 20 UNC(IFC) Threaded Insert
Diffuser "Silky White" 88x88 6mm thick
Acrylic Fresnel Lens diameter 50mm, focal length 40mm
Epileds XHP7070.2 12V 3000K LED (Cree XHP70.2)
M3x20 Hex Screw Black x4
M3x65 Threaded Rod x4
M3 Nut x12
M3x6 1mm Nylon Washer x8
Nylon Spacer M3x15 x4
I missed it that the sensor was available individually.
This morning I wound up ordering the whole assemblies to remove the sensor.
What about sensor #6 is it the same, it is not clear.
View attachment 334375
When you upload the Gerber files to JLCPCB there is an option to have them put the surface mounted components on the boards; The other 2 files along with the Gerber file have the components locations and values for JLCPCB to put on. I did it that way and got the boards with the SMD components on them.I'm also updating a "Build" thread on the Film Camera Tester's Gitub discussion.
I ordered the PC boards, but did not know I could get the little components soldered on. Luckily I figured that out before paying for the order. There is a slide-switch button near the bottom of the PCB ordering screen to add the electrical components to the PCB for you so you don't have to solder the tiny components to the board yourself.
I contacted a local 3d printer, but he did not get back to me so I ordered the 3d Parts from JLCPCB in Black Resin and Black ABS.
I ordered most of the other components from AliExpress. Never used that system of multiple vendors before, will see what shows up.
It was a little concerning ordering a Chinese counterfeit CREE led. The instructions indicated that particular fake needs to be used to ensure correct calibration of the system since the source code is not available for alterations.
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