Hi, first of all apologies. Photrio seems not to be sending me an email when somebody posts or PMs, so unless I check in, I cannot see new posts.
Thank you for taking the time to post the issue and more importantly, the solution.
As for the sensor board issue. Ideally I would like one in my hand to look at, or at the least a photo of the component side.
But from what I can surmise by looking at the photos and comparing it to an original pcb, it seems somebody has copied the original pcb layout, changing it slightly, muffing it up, making two errors.
This board has a slightly different layout to the original, the solder pad circled in red has been moved up.
It seems that this solder pad is not connected to any pcb track.
Assuming on the other side, it is the pullup resister, then as correctly shown in the OPs photo, it should be connected to the pad below.
The second error that I can see on the 'good board' (but it looks ok on the 'Bad' board photo), the pcb track from the smoothing capacitor just stops and does not continue to the top-left.
In the 'Good' photo below, I have highlighted in yellow, the two errors, where wire links require soldering.
Why the pcb design has changed, I have no idea. I have two variations in my collection, the pcbs are identical, but the screen printing is slightly different.
Whether there is just one pcb manufacturer of this board & they have slightly changed it & goofed up, or another company has decided to copy the design, who knows.
View attachment 406078
I started doing some due diligence by reading the first 4 pages of this thread.27 more to go I suppose. I've never used Github, but just went on to do a search by typing in "shutter tester". Apparently there's 46 of them. No way I can know which one is the one in this thread. Also, there seemed to be a situation where only the user Niglyn has tthe code needed to program it. For what it's worth, I've restored a LOT of ham radio gear, oscilloscopes, signal genrators, R to R tape recorders, and lots of other things. Also I'm pretty good at Freecad and have a couple nice 3D printers. One has a .2mm tip that can print extremely high detail in PLA. So I'm sure I can contribute stl's to the forum for a nice cabinet for this device. Thank you.
Hello Niglyn,
I have built the Arduino version, which is sufficient for now, and I would need the access key. The authentication code is 106.
Thank you very much.
HI, well you have the choice of 46 if you want to build one) or look at those listed on ebay etc for built units. Should keep you busy comparing them all )
Here is the link to mine.
billbill100 - Overview
billbill100 has 8 repositories available. Follow their code on GitHub.github.com
The complied code for The Shutter Tester is free and on Github.
A passkey is required, which is given free. Details are in the user guide.
An extract from a kosmo foto article, detailing shutters and the testing of them. I agree with every word, which is why the multitude of DIY shutter testers available, either to purchase or make oneself, are simply inaccurate at higher speeds.
"The real switch of the sensor from light to dark comes not at the actual time of the curtain moving against the sensor, but at time when the actual light stream is reduced to what the sensor believes is dark, and sensor may have some inertia too. Also, the point of switching from light to dark is not the same as the point of switch from dark to light. So, sensors have their own characteristics that affect metering.
In this case we can reach an important conclusion: the shorter metered time, the more influence physical features of the device has on accuracy. In other words, the shorter the time measured, the more likely there will be an error in the metering".
And for leaf shutters, things get worse for leaf shutters
"And finally the case of the shortest speed. Leaves open – leaves close. No delay. Shutter did not stay in the fully opened position. And in this case the result of metering is not dependent on the shutter! The result is dependent on device characteristics only! In Picture 5 I show three possible levels of the switching sensor: L1, L2, L3. Using those levels we can get three values of the metered time t1, t2, t3. And all the values will be correct. But they will reflect not the shutter speed, but the internal setting of the metering device".
"And now some final conclusions:
- The metered value always contains an error.
- With a faster shutter speed, the margin of error in the metered value is greater.
- Never use as the correct value the metered value based on the fastest shutter speed, especially for leaf-shutter cameras"
Thank heavens we have my The Shutter Tester, cheap, simple and the most important factor:-
It works!
Errors detailed above are mathematically computed in my shutter tester and the results shown are the calculated exposure values, thus giving an accurate result.
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