Better than FR tank for 4x5 that isn't discontinued?

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miha

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John,
Would you consider a simple homemade slosher? See my earlier (there was a url link here which no longer exists) (#6)

This looks good indeed.
 

MattKing

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Stone:

X-Tol easily lasts 6 months once mixed, and it is easy to mix. Past that, it is a bit iffy, but it is cheap, so if you need to toss it after 6 months, you are probably wasting between 3 and 7 dollars.

When you mix it up first time, you divide the 5 litres into a bottle used for working solution and bottle(s) for replenishment. I'm currently using a 1.25 litre bottle for my working solution.

You only need to replenish it a minimum of once a week, and you do that by just dumping 70 ml from your working solution and adding 70 ml from your replenishing solution - which comes from the same initial 5 litre batch. You only need to do this during any week when you don't develop film.

If you actually develop film during that week, you replenish after each development @ 70 ml per 120 roll or equivalent (120 = 135-36 = four 4x5 sheets). You dump the appropriate amount of replenishing solution into your bottle while the film is developing, and than pour the developer back into the bottle, with the excess being discarded.

Your first batch will give you about fifty 120 rolls (or fifty 135-36 rolls, or 200 4x5 sheets). With subsequent batches, you continue to use the same bottle of working solution, while the newly mixed batch can be conveniently split between five one litre bottles.
 

LJH

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Yea, I got that, 1L is my max, alas... Maybe I'll design my own better one and market it :smile:

It seems to me if the tolerances on the mod 54 or better, this wouldn't be an issue, the film would stay put and not shimmy back-and-forth, but there's at least a millimeter or two of space on the top and bottom for the film to shift up-and-down, I don't understand why there's so much space. Also if instead of having the film be with teeth, if they were actually tracks, the film would stay more still, and be less prone to scratching in the first place.

I come from a long line of engineers, I'm the first in 4 generations to not be one by trade, but it still is ingrained in me, and it just drives me nuts that something better couldn't have been designed its so simple I don't understand, if I only had the money, I would design it myself and patent it.

I think I'd back the Jobo Engineers' skills, experience and knowledge over a Layman's every day of the year.

The tolerances you refer to are to allow fluid movement over the whole film so as to prevent edge markings and/or surge marks.
 

StoneNYC

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I think I'd back the Jobo Engineers' skills, experience and knowledge over a Layman's every day of the year.

The tolerances you refer to are to allow fluid movement over the whole film so as to prevent edge markings and/or surge marks.

It's not that they can't do it, it's just that it's not profitable :wink:
 

StoneNYC

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Stone:

X-Tol easily lasts 6 months once mixed, and it is easy to mix. Past that, it is a bit iffy, but it is cheap, so if you need to toss it after 6 months, you are probably wasting between 3 and 7 dollars.

When you mix it up first time, you divide the 5 litres into a bottle used for working solution and bottle(s) for replenishment. I'm currently using a 1.25 litre bottle for my working solution.

You only need to replenish it a minimum of once a week, and you do that by just dumping 70 ml from your working solution and adding 70 ml from your replenishing solution - which comes from the same initial 5 litre batch. You only need to do this during any week when you don't develop film.

If you actually develop film during that week, you replenish after each development @ 70 ml per 120 roll or equivalent (120 = 135-36 = four 4x5 sheets). You dump the appropriate amount of replenishing solution into your bottle while the film is developing, and than pour the developer back into the bottle, with the excess being discarded.

Your first batch will give you about fifty 120 rolls (or fifty 135-36 rolls, or 200 4x5 sheets). With subsequent batches, you continue to use the same bottle of working solution, while the newly mixed batch can be conveniently split between five one litre bottles.

Thanks Matt, I don't really have the room for all those bottles, I'm already at my max, plus I hardly even know what day it is let alone what week it is haha, too complicated for my chaotic life, and I'm happy with Rodinal, the dev isn't the issue, it's the storage bottles and wanting to keep it at 1L bottles. Essentially I've honed my set up so that I don't actually need to use a graduate, I have a tiny little measuring cup and the measures in 10 ml increments, I put 20ml developer into the little measure, pour it directly into the bottle, the 1 L bottle, I then pour in the filtered water and I'm done no need for a large graduate or mixing stuff etc. etc. no need to store anything makes life really simple for me. I'm smart, but I'm also dyslexic, so keeping things in increments of 10 makes my life easier, if I had a 1.5 L bottle of chemistry it just complicates things, of the next as I use add up to a 1 L bottle, having to figure out the tiny little changes makes me nuts and I had up messing up the dilutions.

However I MAY be getting a special gift soon that would make me shut up and buy a JOBO tank anyway...
 

CatLABS

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This is going off topic again but:
There is no mix and match between any paterson and Jobo tanks, unfortunately. That would have been a cool thing, but just does not work, in any direction.

2520 tanks "only" need 1.25l, not 1.5l. Jobo make a 2L bottle, and other makes of shrink bottles that hold more then 1L are out there and plenty cheap.

If you like your dev process, there is no need to change it, just mix 1.25L of dev and do you think as you would have with any other tank. The Jobo 2509n has no risk of sheets being scratched, or become dislodged or anything else for that matter.

Then stop/fix with tiny amounts of chemistry (300-500ml) while rotating, or use 1.25L for inversion.

The Jobo 2500 tank system for sheet film processinf is a time and result proven system that works for many folks around the globe, most of whom do not have a Jobo processor.
 

LJH

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It's not that they can't do it, it's just that it's not profitable :wink:

Strange comment, given they do do it, and that they're still doing it despite your claim that it's not profitable.

Seems altruism isn't dead...
 

LJH

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However I MAY be getting a special gift soon that would make me ... buy a JOBO tank anyway...

I genuinely hope this comes to fruition for you; you should end up being very happy with the results they should provide!
 

StoneNYC

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Strange comment, given they do do it, and that they're still doing it despite your claim that it's not profitable.

Seems altruism isn't dead...

NO THEY DONT not for the hand processing tanks ... Sheesh!

This is going off topic again but:
There is no mix and match between any paterson and Jobo tanks, unfortunately. That would have been a cool thing, but just does not work, in any direction.

2520 tanks "only" need 1.25l, not 1.5l. Jobo make a 2L bottle, and other makes of shrink bottles that hold more then 1L are out there and plenty cheap.

If you like your dev process, there is no need to change it, just mix 1.25L of dev and do you think as you would have with any other tank. The Jobo 2509n has no risk of sheets being scratched, or become dislodged or anything else for that matter.

Then stop/fix with tiny amounts of chemistry (300-500ml) while rotating, or use 1.25L for inversion.

The Jobo 2500 tank system for sheet film processinf is a time and result proven system that works for many folks around the globe, most of whom do not have a Jobo processor.

*facepalm* as I said.... My bottles are 1LITER BOTTLES I use to measure, I don't use a graduate so the 1L bottle is the only measure I have besides a tiny measure cup in 10ml increments and it only goes to 50ml lol, ok thanks I'm done repeating myself.

so an effort to show you the Jell-O hand processing tank that I was thinking about, I went to Google it, and discovered all along that the product that I had even though the lab at the time told me it was a JOBO was actually an Omega style universal tank... #stonefail ....

At the time, I was completely new to developing, and obviously the representative used the word JOBO as a general term for processing tanks... I never checked into it, and obviously throughout the box way before I found APUG so it never occurred to me to doublecheck my knowledge on that, so for that I apologize I feel like a doofus :/

This is what I had at first, it leaked and sucked and I replaced it with a Paterson...

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1384120230.748419.jpg
 

LJH

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NO THEY DONT not for the hand processing tanks ... Sheesh!

*facepalm* YES, THEY DO for hand processing tanks. Search for Jobo 2401. Sheesh!

It strikes me that you're the only one complaining about this. Perhaps it's YOUR processing paradigm that should be questioned, not Jobo's offerings... A case of the tail trying to wag the dog perhaps?
 

StoneNYC

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*facepalm* YES, THEY DO for hand processing tanks. Search for Jobo 2401. Sheesh!

It strikes me that you're the only one complaining about this. Perhaps it's YOUR processing paradigm that should be questioned, not Jobo's offerings... A case of the tail trying to wag the dog perhaps?

Sorry forgot to delete that part, if you notice later on in the thread I mentioned that when I googled the JOBO tank I discovered that it was actually not JOBO. And was in fact a different tank altogether, I forgot to go back and edit this post my apologies.
 

LJH

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No need to apologise. As I wrote earlier, I sincerely do hope that you do get to use the Jobo system at some point soon (especially the Expert tanks) as they are such good things! (IMO, of course).
 

pbromaghin

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This weekend I used my new setup with Jobo tank (2336 w/ 2021 reels) and Uniroller agitator for the first time and it most definitely is the very best thing since sliced bread. The 1/2 dozen Delta 100 4x5 sheets (my first-ever LF shots) came out just beautiful. It was a pleasant surprise that I had nothing to do while it happily rotated along all by itself. It was SO much easier than manual agitation and I am completely sold. The next item on the agenda is to get some adjustable reels for 35mm and 120. My advice to the OP - dump that FR tank and get some kind of roller. My particular setup can be duplicated for about $120.
 
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