Arches Platine

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Davec101

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David,

The experiences I had with Jiaban (or Hake ?) brushes were a real disaster. Perhaps I was not trying the best quality ones.
I'm using an Italian brand, with syntetic bristles, similar to Richardson.
I pre wet the brush with distilled water.Amazingly I'm using the same amount of emulsion as with the rod.I flush the brush with plenty of running water immediately after using it, to protect the ferrule from the intense corrosion caused the Pt/Pd emulsion.

I don't think Kenro Izu is using one Jiaban/Hake brush.
By the way, what is the difference between Jaiban and Hake brushes ?

I believe Jiaban and Hake are the same Manuel, both pretty poor quality however some people use them with success. Having had another look at the Kenro video, it could be a nice expensive sable/synthetic brush. Thanks for the advice on the Italian brush, do you know the brand name? At the moment i am looking at Da vinci wide series 5040, before I purchase the expensive but well regarded Richeson brushes.
 
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Loris Medici

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I use a DaVinci Cosmotop synthetic, a beautiful brush with good resilience and springback.

Not sure of the largest size offered...

I use them too (since the beginning in 2003), nice brushes indeed.

I think the prices for sizes between 20 - 80mm are quite good / manageable. (I have all sizes between 20 and 60mm, except the 30mm...) Dickblick lists two extra large sizes (150 and 200mm), but their prices are incredible!
 

Davec101

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I use them too (since the beginning in 2003), nice brushes indeed.

I think the prices for sizes between 20 - 80mm are quite good / manageable. (I have all sizes between 20 and 60mm, except the 30mm...) Dickblick lists two extra large sizes (150 and 200mm), but their prices are incredible!

Hi Loris

I went out and got the da vinci 5080 series to try, do you have any advice using these brushes? Am thinking of using some direct humidity before coating to see if this aids my workflow and results with the BFK paper and new batch of Platine.
 
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Hi Loris

I went out and got the da vinci 5080 series to try, do you have any advice using these brushes? Am thinking of using some direct humidity before coating to see if this aids my workflow and results with the BFK paper and new batch of Platine.

David,

First, saturate the brush with distilled water and after get rid of the water excess with two energic shakes. Then, pray to the Platinum gods and spread the emulsion in one way movements with Zen and delicate movements, like a dance. Good luck! :smile:
 
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At the moment i am also testing some pre-treated BFK Rives @ 250gsm/280gsm and 300gsm. This paper seems to be the most common paper used by Penn, I shall have to go back and view the Penn originals prints again as I cant remember whether he printed on the rough side or the mesh side, I am sure it was the latter.

David, as promised here are two images I've made from Penn's prints at V&A.
I'm not sure if it's a paper mill standard procedure to use the emboss on the mesh side, if it is, those images were printed on that smooth side.
 

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  • Penn's Papier D'Arches corner .jpg
    Penn's Papier D'Arches corner .jpg
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  • Penn,Pt print, Aluminium.jpg
    Penn,Pt print, Aluminium.jpg
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Davec101

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Okay, using a rod and brush seems to have made a significant improvement with the BFK Rives and there seems to be very little or no speckling from the first prints i have made. Thank you to those who suggested the brush. The first pass I am doing with the rod and then I delicately mop up with the brush. The big surprise with the BFK is that it seems to clear really quickly compared to other papers I have tried ( almost done within 5 minutes in the first citric acid bath. )
 

Davec101

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David, as promised here are two images I've made from Penn's prints at V&A.
I'm not sure if it's a paper mill standard procedure to use the emboss on the mesh side, if it is, those images were printed on that smooth side.

Thanks for these, so you think these two prints were on the mesh side? The Arches paper (Satine) is the single layer 'Camel Pack' is it not, and from my recollection the 5 Moroccan Women is the multi-layer on BFK.

I am going to see them again this Thursday to have another closer look.
 

pschwart

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I would just mention that the DaVinci 5040 I have is much springier that the Richeson 9010. It was my first brush, but I find I prefer the Richeson now. The "magic" moniker bestowed on the Richeson is silly -- it is a fine synthetic brush, but there are other brands with that work just as well.
I use them too (since the beginning in 2003), nice brushes indeed.

I think the prices for sizes between 20 - 80mm are quite good / manageable. (I have all sizes between 20 and 60mm, except the 30mm...) Dickblick lists two extra large sizes (150 and 200mm), but their prices are incredible!
 
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Thanks for these, so you think these two prints were on the mesh side? The Arches paper (Satine) is the single layer 'Camel Pack' is it not, and from my recollection the 5 Moroccan Women is the multi-layer on BFK.

I am going to see them again this Thursday to have another closer look.

Yes David, you're absolutely right, that embossed Arches corner is from the "Camel Pack". Sorry for the mistake.
 

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  • "Camel Pack" detail.jpg
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  • Penn's Papier D'Arches corner .jpg
    Penn's Papier D'Arches corner .jpg
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Loris Medici

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Dave, my only advice would be:

Keep your brushes clean and dry (moot advice for a seasoned printer like you I presume...), the ferrule is pretty durable but the rivets rust very easily (the only weak part of this brush - and that's my actual point...), that's definitely no good for pt/pd and any other iron process! I immediately rinse the brush and dry the ferrule / handle (if got wet in the rinse) with a paper towel, and I never dry / store the brush in upwards position; just keep it horizontal (bristles not touching anywhere) or hang from the the handle...

Regards,
Loris.

Edit: P.S. I had the rust problem with only one of my brushes (the very first one), the others are still OK after 5-6 years, after switching to the protocol described above.
 

PVia

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David, you may have mentioned this earlier but I can't find it...are you acidifying the BFK?

I'm also assuming you're not sizing it...

BFK is a thirsty paper. I use it for some gums, but at large sizes (16x20 and up) I find it tough to re-register without some type of registration system/aluminum/pins.

With my latest set of gumprints (11x17 on 16x20) I preshrunk and sized with Gamblin PVA size, 2 coats at 1:2. After two layers, there is a slight semi-matt sheen to the surface of the image area that is not at all unpleasant, but detail in the print is much better than without the added size.
 

Davec101

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David, you may have mentioned this earlier but I can't find it...are you acidifying the BFK?

I'm also assuming you're not sizing it...

BFK is a thirsty paper. I use it for some gums, but at large sizes (16x20 and up) I find it tough to re-register without some type of registration system/aluminum/pins.

With my latest set of gumprints (11x17 on 16x20) I preshrunk and sized with Gamblin PVA size, 2 coats at 1:2. After two layers, there is a slight semi-matt sheen to the surface of the image area that is not at all unpleasant, but detail in the print is much better than without the added size.

Yes i did acidify and did not size. I was waiting for dry down before posting some dmax results, see attached. If i can achieve this consistantly with a single layer i will be happy. This was on the mesh side of BFK Rives 270gsm white. The texture and tone of the black is by far the nicest I have come across, however i do believe the brush has played a part in this too. Will order some more sheets today to make sure this is repeatable.
 

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  • BFK_single layer_Dmax.jpg
    BFK_single layer_Dmax.jpg
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Davec101

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Dave, my only advice would be:

Keep your brushes clean and dry (moot advice for a seasoned printer like you I presume...), the ferrule is pretty durable but the rivets rust very easily (the only weak part of this brush - and that's my actual point...), that's definitely no good for pt/pd and any other iron process! I immediately rinse the brush and dry the ferrule / handle (if got wet in the rinse) with a paper towel, and I never dry / store the brush in upwards position; just keep it horizontal (bristles not touching anywhere) or hang from the the handle...

Regards,
Loris.

Edit: P.S. I had the rust problem with only one of my brushes (the very first one), the others are still OK after 5-6 years, after switching to the protocol described above.

Thank you for your adviice Loris, I am going to get the 3 inch version of the 5080, the 6 and 7 inch are crazy money (90-100+) the richeson is cheaper than that, although i will have taxes and shipping to pay.
 
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Thank you for your adviice Loris, I am going to get the 3 inch version of the 5080, the 6 and 7 inch are crazy money (90-100+) the richeson is cheaper than that, although i will have taxes and shipping to pay.

David,

Do you order Richeson brushes from abroad ? Perhaps from U.S. ?
I've tried to find a distributor for UK or the rest of EU, but I could not find any.

Concerning the dMax measurement.
Can you notice any difference on your densitometer readout if you turn the paper 90 ?
I'm asking you this because with my Heiland densitometer I'm getting differences if I turn the print.
Perhaps is caused by the different reflection behavior of the textured paper.
 

Davec101

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David,

Do you order Richeson brushes from abroad ? Perhaps from U.S. ?
I've tried to find a distributor for UK or the rest of EU, but I could not find any.

Concerning the dMax measurement.
Can you notice any difference on your densitometer readout if you turn the paper 90 ?
I'm asking you this because with my Heiland densitometer I'm getting differences if I turn the print.
Perhaps is caused by the different reflection behavior of the textured paper.

I intend on ordering a richeson from here : https://www.jerrysartarama.com/discount-art-supplies/brushes-and-palette-knives/watercolor-brushes/richeson-watercolor-brushes/richeson-9010-series-synthetic-flat-wash-brushes.htm , like you i have found no supplier in the U.K or the E.U.

Regarding dmax readings, if i were to move the paper 90 degrees there might be a variance of maybe +/- .01- or .02 but nothing drastic. I have two reflection meters a Viptronic and a Barbieri that I get calibrated each year. For important tests I initially make sure the readings correspond with the calibration tablet that came with each unit first then take a number of readings from the same area and note down the average.
 
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Martin Axon

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Arches Platine New Making 2011

A new run of Arches Platine has been made and is now available if your usual supplier can't help, try Orange Art in CT . They ship, good price call 800.253.8975
 

Davec101

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A new run of Arches Platine has been made and is now available if your usual supplier can't help, try Orange Art in CT . They ship, good price call 800.253.8975

Hi Martin

First and foremost, I think a lot of us who print in Platinum and have used Arches Platine owe you a big thanks for your hard work in creating/designing the paper as in the past it has been excellent.

How do you feel the new batch compares to the last one? For me personally i am not getting the same dmax that i achieved with the previous batch, also I am having to use tween to help absorbtion as i seem to be getting white speckling without any. For coating I have used a rod in the past and had good results.
 
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Kerik

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Dave, where did you get the little reflection densitometer?
 

Davec101

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