I should submit as evidence: this was shot handheld, turned out pretty sharp. To the theory that the back being loose could effect focus, the camera was angled downward for this shot and I believe up against my chest, so in theory that would keep the back pressed to the body. It would be on a tripod that the back would have slack. Hopefully, as someone else said, if it were enough of a gap to cause focus issues, I would see it in light leaking as well.
4th roll with a Hasselblad - thoughts.
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I started with an Olympus 4-T. Then switched to Leica for 10+ years. Still have a M9 and M7. Then I got bitten by the 4x5 bugs.
Now I am building up a Hassy 2xx system: better quality than any 35mm film and most 35mm or smaller digital, and more portable than 4x5.
Now I am building up a Hassy 2xx system: better quality than any 35mm film and most 35mm or smaller digital, and more portable than 4x5.
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That's pretty sharp. Don't worry, you can get sharp negatives shooting at 1/125s with the Hasselblad. If you are really steadily, 1/60s.
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If you find yourself still jerking the camera when making an exposure even after some practice, you could try using a cable release instead.
Do you realize that the BGN Hasselblad that you bought from KEH comes with a 180-day warranty? They'll likely fix any defects that you discover if you just ask. (I got a lovely Rolleiflex from KEH but the aperture jammed – was amazed and delighted when they just sent it off to Harry Fleenor for repair at no charge to me!)
If you think the view with a 45 degree prism finder is great, try adding a Hasselblad 2x flip up magnifier to get critical focus! The spectacular magnified view with both the prism and magnifier combined is so huge and sharp that even my old eyes can see what I'm focusing on. (For example, a Hasselblad Prism Finder 45° 2.5x unmetered PM 42307 or Hasselblad Prism Finder 45° 3x unmetered PM-5 42308 or Hasselblad PME-51 Prism (c.1994-2000) 45° 2.5x digital metering finder 42296, with a Hasselblad 2x flip up prism viewfinder eyepiece magnifier 42459. With these older style more angular shaped prisms the compatible Hasselblad flip-up magnifier is nicely held on by unscrewing the eyepiece ring and reattaching it over the magnifier's round metal ring which holds the magnifier in place. But, I don't like the newer magnifier version needed for compatibility with the newer style more rounded Hasselblad prisms which is a kludge that has to hang off the accessory shoe instead.)
Do you realize that the BGN Hasselblad that you bought from KEH comes with a 180-day warranty? They'll likely fix any defects that you discover if you just ask. (I got a lovely Rolleiflex from KEH but the aperture jammed – was amazed and delighted when they just sent it off to Harry Fleenor for repair at no charge to me!)
If you think the view with a 45 degree prism finder is great, try adding a Hasselblad 2x flip up magnifier to get critical focus! The spectacular magnified view with both the prism and magnifier combined is so huge and sharp that even my old eyes can see what I'm focusing on. (For example, a Hasselblad Prism Finder 45° 2.5x unmetered PM 42307 or Hasselblad Prism Finder 45° 3x unmetered PM-5 42308 or Hasselblad PME-51 Prism (c.1994-2000) 45° 2.5x digital metering finder 42296, with a Hasselblad 2x flip up prism viewfinder eyepiece magnifier 42459. With these older style more angular shaped prisms the compatible Hasselblad flip-up magnifier is nicely held on by unscrewing the eyepiece ring and reattaching it over the magnifier's round metal ring which holds the magnifier in place. But, I don't like the newer magnifier version needed for compatibility with the newer style more rounded Hasselblad prisms which is a kludge that has to hang off the accessory shoe instead.)
+1
I shoot virtually all my Hasselblad and other cameras hand held. With the 80mm lens a shutter speed of 1/60 seconds is hand holdable.
I shoot virtually all my Hasselblad and other cameras hand held. With the 80mm lens a shutter speed of 1/60 seconds is hand holdable.
I feel that way about my Speed Graphic and Exaktas.
Having additional lenses and backs offers considerable flexibility and is not money wasted. Also consider a prism. The simpler ones aren't very expensive and will do the job.
Then there are filters, lens hoods, the quick release plate....
When I bought a SWC at a bargain price, I thought I'd hardly use it (I already had a 50/4 CF FLE). But now I'm seeing all sorts of photo opportunities that are ideal for the SWC. If I had to pick just three lenses, though, it'd be the 50mm, the 100mm (Hasselblad's best lens), and the 150mm. The old satin-chrome 250mm C lens is sweet, too, and wasn't very expensive when I bought mine about 15 years ago.
Beware of system cameras!
I'm drooling over this! I really want a wider lens and prism. Ughhh, the waiting involved with GAS>
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What those two on the left are doing is forbidden in some societies...
Indeed, thank goodness you can't see the four in the back! L
Interesting. I'm a new Hasselblad owner as well, but I haven't even finished my first roll. I don't find the handling awkward, but then again, I'm coming from an RZ67. I thought the shutter speed on the lens would be difficult to become accustomed to, but I'm finding it more convenient than moving my right hand off the lens.
The acute-matte screen is breathtaking!
The acute-matte screen is breathtaking!
Welcome to the wonderful world of Hasselblad!
I am starting to see some sharper results with the Hassy, but my controlled sharpness test at home was kind of soft... I shot this at 2.8 - I believe around 1/15th with a cable release, just sitting the camera on a flat stable desk. The Canon logo appeared to be as sharp as possible when I shot it. Maybe I should be inspecting the mirror pads? Otherwise, I am falling in love with this camera. I fear the GAS coming back as I look to prisms, other lenses, etc.
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I recommend that you aim your GAS at the following lenses: 38mm [SWC], 50mm, 80mm, if you do portraits: 150mm [or 180mm but it is close to the 250mm], 250mm lenses. Except for the SWC the lenses all use B60 filters so a skylight or UV filter for each lens and then only one set of filters. Skip the 60mm as it is too close to the 80mm lens. The 120 and 135 are for close up photography and you can do that with the four extension tubes.
The 40mm is very heavy and almost as expensive as the SWC. The filters for the 40mm lens are expensive. The SWC is rectilinearly correct and the 40mm lenses is not. This is an example of one of my SWC photographs.
Look at the horizontal and vertical lines near the edges. The 40mm cannot do this well.
We are here to help you deal with the GAS.
The 40mm is very heavy and almost as expensive as the SWC. The filters for the 40mm lens are expensive. The SWC is rectilinearly correct and the 40mm lenses is not. This is an example of one of my SWC photographs.
Look at the horizontal and vertical lines near the edges. The 40mm cannot do this well.
We are here to help you deal with the GAS.
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Hassy glass is dropping to all time low. Now you can routinely get a SWC for under $2000, may be even as low as $1500-$1600.
I just scored a 50/2.8 FE latest version for $700 including shipping!! Most of my current photos at the instagram account http://instagram.com/richardmanphoto are taken with the 203FE or thw SWC.
I just scored a 50/2.8 FE latest version for $700 including shipping!! Most of my current photos at the instagram account http://instagram.com/richardmanphoto are taken with the 203FE or thw SWC.
I'm just looking at the shot on my phone, but nothing seems sharp. Even though you used a cable release, the motion of the baffles and mirror in an unsupported camera will cause movement. It would've been better to pre-release the camera (thereby opening the baffles, raising the mirror, and closing down the aperture). Then, all the cable release does is fire the leaf shutter - minimal movement.
Even when my camera is on a tripod, I pre-release it so that there will be minimum vibration at the time of exposure.
So what I have is GAS? I will discuss with my surgeon ...
No good cures for GAS that I am aware of.
But, go ahead and discuss it with your surgeon, he probably needs another Porsche.
As for the 60mm, they don't get much love, and so are relatively cheap. But they are scary sharp, and (IMO) wide enough if you don't need the uber wide SWC or 40.
I did prerelease the baffles and mirror, I always do. That said the camera could have moved slightly in between that and the shutter release but I haven't seen any shots that are 100% sharp - though some are close
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