4th roll with a Hasselblad - thoughts.

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Sirius Glass

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Very cool! I drive by Montpelier quite often, I live just 20ish minutes north of that area. Vermont is an easy place to be a photographer, aside from the lack of film community! I love the weather!

What is an -ish minute? Metric? US Standard? Imperial?
 
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LMNOP

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Technically you can simply reform the fingers the back rides on.

I'd say " bend" but "reform" looks better on an invoice.

How would you do this? I have tried to lightly press this part into a table edge, it doesn't seem to move, I don't want to be excessive.
 

Sirius Glass

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Press more firmly and harder. Gradually increase the pressure until the hooks move a little at a time.
 
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Press more firmly and harder. Gradually increase the pressure until the hooks move a little at a time.

Ok - this is working. I can't seem to get it ALL the way to stop rocking, but the gap has decreased QUITE a bit.
 

Sirius Glass

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Now try that for a while before you do any more adjustment.

You have just learned that you get your money's worth for what you pay for APUG. <<wink>> <<wink>> :D
 
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LMNOP

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Now try that for a while before you do any more adjustment.

You have just learned that you get your money's worth for what you pay for APUG. <<wink>> <<wink>> :D

Will do! and point taken!

It seems as though SOME wobble is necessary, though my RZ has none come to think of it.
 

Sirius Glass

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My backs do not wobble, but I want you to avoid over correcting because correcting for that is a pain.
 

Theo Sulphate

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Will do! and point taken!

It seems as though SOME wobble is necessary, though my RZ has none come to think of it.

Thinking about this thread, I just examined what my backs and bodies do.

On the 500C/M and 501C - completely solid, no wobble anywhere.
On the SWC and 553ELX - very slight side-to-side wobble

I've never had light leaks or focus issues with these.
 

TooManyShots

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Also, a loose back won't cause the focus to shift because if the gap is big enough to cause the focus shift, it would be big enough to cause light leaks...

Mine would only move from side to side. It does not move when trying to pull it up...
 
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Also, a loose back won't cause the focus to shift because if the gap is big enough to cause the focus shift, it would be big enough to cause light leaks...

Mine would only move from side to side. It does not move when trying to pull it up...

That is what I was thinking initially... This would have to leave light leaks and my negatives are completely clean. I have to shoot it more, I think with Siruis' suggestion, I have less wobble, but still a bit. Makes me feel a bit let down by KEH but it should be operational as the description said, so maybe I will get over this focus issue.
 

TooManyShots

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That is what I was thinking initially... This would have to leave light leaks and my negatives are completely clean. I have to shoot it more, I think with Siruis' suggestion, I have less wobble, but still a bit. Makes me feel a bit let down by KEH but it should be operational as the description said, so maybe I will get over this focus issue.

If you are using a Hasselblad focusing screen and the focus screen height adjustment screws haven't been tampered with, you should not have focusing issues. Just put the camera on a tripod and take a shot with wide open. Then, another shot shooting at the infinity mark at f8. Both shots should be sharp. I mean, sharp..almost digital kind of sharpness with grains. :smile: Anyway, the 500 model is the earlier design and generally it would have more wears and tears than the 501. I say the keh description is accurate if the body has no scratches only has some minor issues with the loose back. Of course, I doubt that the body has been CLA at all. If everything is working smoothly and your body isn't jamming, I say you have a working Hasselblad.
 

Theo Sulphate

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If you are using a Hasselblad focusing screen and the focus screen height adjustment screws haven't been tampered with, you should not have focusing issues.

Unless the mirror pads have deteriorated and the mirror is sitting a bit lower than it should. However, the pads can be inspected with the lens off.

That is what APUGuser19 stated often. He mentioned that when that happens, focusing could be off by several inches at relatively close distances.
 

Luis-F-S

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So, you've shot 20 rolls a week for 40 years, or 40 rolls a week for 20 years??? I am deeply impressed.

Sent from my D6653 using Tapatalk

No, I actually shot way more than 20 rolls a week for more than 40 years. Some of us were successful commercial photographers for a really long time. I bought my first 500 C in 1973. Still have every Blad I bought since 1985. With routine service they pretty much go forever! L
 
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Luis-F-S

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I disagree.

While VH got it mostly right, there are still some shortcomings to the Hassy system. However, its like owning a luxury car that has only one cup holder in the back seat, or leather seats, but a less-than-premium sound system. They Hassy, and the luxury car, are fun to own and easy to drive, but there are still a few things that could be improved.

There were three major issues with the Hassy system for me - the price of the name and gear, the very hard to see focusing screen, and the awkward and tight focusing.

But thats the beauty of this hobby, there's a photographer for ever tool, and a tool for every photographer.

Compared to other manufacturers, VHI got it right. The price was quite reasonable for the quality, every camera I ever bought paid for itself in less than 3 months, I had no issues with the split image focusing screen and the acumat was a great improvement. I found nothing awkward about focusing, and tight means it's actually machined, not slop with a lot of grease.

I wonder how many cup holders a Bentley has the rear. Next time I ride in my friend's Arnage, I'll be sure to count. L
 
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Theo Sulphate

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No, I actually shot way more than 20 rolls a week for more than 40 years. Some of us were successful commercial photographers for a really long time. I bought my first 500 C in 1973. Still have every Blad I bought since 1985. With routine service they pretty much go forever! L

That's what I would expect. A modelling agency I knew of probably went through 20 rolls in a day, easily. They'd have a bunch of backs pre-loaded, go through a shooting session, then set up for the next model, all day long.

This is partly how Hasselblad built its reputation.
 

John Koehrer

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I found nothing awkward about focusing, and tight means it's actually machined, not slop with a lot of grease.

A friend of mine used to say VH started with a block of Stainless steel and removed everything that didn't look like a Hasselblad.
 
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Took the blad out today and burned a roll of Ektar. I have mixed feelings about some of the results, as I know there will be motion blur in some of them. I'm still getting used to the handling of a smaller WLF camera, I find my big hands fumbling at the decisive moment, kind of jerking the camera sideways because I'm not familiar with the amount of pressure needed. I'll get there, with every shot I get closer. I did some tripod landscape shots at the end of the day so we will see how those look. Can't wait.
 

Kevin Caulfield

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No, I actually shot way more than 20 rolls a week for more than 40 years. Some of us were successful commercial photographers for a really long time. I bought my first 500 C in 1973. Still have every Blad I bought since 1985. With routine service they pretty much go forever! L

Cool, I'm impressed, and as a Hasselblad owner myself I'm even more impressed.
 

Sirius Glass

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Took the blad out today and burned a roll of Ektar. I have mixed feelings about some of the results, as I know there will be motion blur in some of them. I'm still getting used to the handling of a smaller WLF camera, I find my big hands fumbling at the decisive moment, kind of jerking the camera sideways because I'm not familiar with the amount of pressure needed. I'll get there, with every shot I get closer. I did some tripod landscape shots at the end of the day so we will see how those look. Can't wait.

Place the camera in the left hand with the index finger on the shutter trigger. The right hand is used for focusing and holding the camera. Gently increase the pressure on the shutter trigger until it fires. Much like squeezing the trigger of a gun, but without the load noise.
 

Theo Sulphate

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Place the camera in the left hand with the index finger on the shutter trigger. The right hand is used for focusing and holding the camera. Gently increase the pressure on the shutter trigger until it fires. Much like squeezing the trigger of a gun, but without the load noise.

Additionally, if possible, hold the camera against your chest or lower chest for added stability. Releasing the shutter after exhaling helps as well. Clearly, though, this would be for more planned shots.
 

BrianShaw

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... And seriously consider using a monopod when not using a tripod.
 

frank

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Place the camera in the left hand with the index finger on the shutter trigger. The right hand is used for focusing and holding the camera. Gently increase the pressure on the shutter trigger until it fires. Much like squeezing the trigger of a gun, but without the load noise.

Just like with my Bronica S2a, but WITH the loud noise. :smile:
 

Sirius Glass

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Place the camera in the left hand with the index finger on the shutter trigger. The right hand is used for focusing and holding the camera. Gently increase the pressure on the shutter trigger until it fires. Much like squeezing the trigger of a gun, but without the load noise.

Just like with my Bronica S2a, but WITH the loud noise. :smile:

The Bronica has a loud noise but Hasselblads go KA-THunk! My camera is louder than your camera!
 
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LMNOP

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Alright guys, I am officially stuck in this damn hassy addiction, I should have been more cautious about getting involved with the heavy stuff...

To the handheld aspect of this discussion: when I get a new camera I always tend to shoot it hand held as much as possible before hunkering down into my tripod routine again, just for fun, it gets me shooting more. I went out today and shot landscapes on tripod and I am excited to see the (hopefully sharp) results. I looked up my body serial number today and found that it's from 1977. That fact alone gave me chills, I got all excited. There is something really cool about knowing the exact year, I wish I could see images that past owners have shot, I have this curiosity with all the cameras I own, especially when they predate my birthday. I've suddendly found the sense that there needs to be more Hasselblad gear in my life. This wobbling back situation almost makes me want to get a nicer condition model next time. For now, I am going to assume this thing is doing the job, I'll share more shots soon.
 
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