Ektar beats the 850 in all but shadow detail.
Hmmm... a side by side would be interesting. I would say that Ektar does not reach the D850 resolving power by some margin.
Parkin measured that with Portra
Mamiya 7 Portra (microscope) 115Mp
If we apply the proportionality, and with the suposition that color film is the limiting factor, then a 36x24mm shot would yield around 23.7MPix effective with Portra. Ektar won't be much far.
I have conducted these tests myself. Portra struggles to deliver more than half of the resolution of Ektar.
My tests show that Ektar outresolves Tmax 100 in 35mm, just as Ektachrome outresolves a D850!
Where besides flawed scans is your data on Ektar coming from?
There was an ancient Ektar ISO 25 that was sharper than TMX, but Ektar 100 is less sharp than TMX.
Parkin
Forget this guy's results. Try Henning Serger.
Sharpness is irrelevant!
Before trying to discredit a source like Parkin, read well the test.
If sharpness is irrelevant (which can be debated), why do we discuss about all that?
Anyway testing film is quite complex because contrast-exposure matters a lot
IMO, last model DSLRs do surpass well the practical resolution of common pictorial 35mm film
35mm film is amazing, a 35mm SLR provides amazing agility. But... Want ultra Pro results ? Go MF !!! like many Pros did since ever.
Which is why Ektar was able to edge out TMX, which I explained in a previous response.
I shoot FF digital, and I'm learning about printing digital negatives etc. A question that I have though is, what are the differences between a scanned 35mm negative, and a full frame digital file? Why would someone prefer to start with a scanned digital file, instead of a straight digital file?
I don't understand why the results you are quoting with scanned film are so poor.
Even with my inexpensive Plustek 8100 I got results comparable to figures often quoted for 36 mp digital sensors, IIRC about 80lppm
My result was similar to that obtained by the professional scanner dealers for true, not nominal resolution.
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/resolution-of-the-plustek-8100.156680/
it depends on the size of the digital negative you need to make. You need to remember there are people who claim you can't enlarge a 35mm negative past 5x7 and 8x10 well its pushing the limits of the film, and then there are other people who gleefully enlarge a 35mm negative to 30x40", so asking which is. better is kind of personal taste. its not hard to get a 8x10 print from a digital phone file ( yes I have done that ), and the difference between starting from a scanned file instead of straight digital is like asking if you want whipped cream and nuts on the ice cream sundae. some people like one or the other, other people like none or both...
the way I treat these things is that a digital file from phone or camera, or a scanned piece of film or scanned paper negative are all capable of making great digital negatives for anything you want to print. ... In the end none of it really matters, or it matters so much that it is an obstacle.
I don't understand why the results you are quoting with scanned film are so poor.
Even with my inexpensive Plustek 8100 I got results comparable to figures often quoted for 36 mp digital sensors, IIRC about 80lppm
My result was similar to that obtained by the professional scanner dealers for true, not nominal resolution.
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/resolution-of-the-plustek-8100.156680/
I have sold photographs of buildings that were so dark and off-color as to be unusable, or so I thought. Published, they were more than adequate. Lesson for us all here.
Perfection in scanning and printing has its price, and some will probably scoff that a Plustek 7600i with Silverfast 6.6 is not that price. For me it suits. What do I care what the obsessives think?
All want large jpegs without sharpening or any color fiddling - their art directors do all that.
pleasures mine ozmooseGood one, John.
Amateur Photographer Test Report Book 11 p5.
We should understand the difference betwen shooting flat targets and real photography. IMO, in practice most of the times we take real advantage of up to around 40 lp/mm and not much beyond.
IMO this illustrates that if a good lens is held steady [or image stabilization is used] much higher results should be obtainable in practice than your quoted 40 lppm.
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