Try doing all of this in color. B&W is simple! In fact, AFAIK, Mees and James never addressed this topic. Haist never planned to either. He was a B&W man to the core.
PE
I have heard that "standard contrast" for negative film is 0.6, on the straight-line portion of the h&d curve. I have a couple of questions about this.
1. is this true?
2. Why 0.6 not 1?
3. Do manufacturers development data uniformly target this standard contrast value?
4. If I have papers from grade 0 to grade 5 at my disposal, how much tolerance does that give me with regards to the contrast of my negatives?
I am trying to determine if there is a development recipe that I can use with all the different films I use.
With high contrast, the image goes from gray to white in a shorter delta log E on the film. So, counter to intuition, a lower gradient can give better detail.
PE
Ilford shows the curves for MG Classic on page 2 here:
http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/2013116121925810.pdf
I've also attached some comparative curves I came up with for the new paper (MG Classic) and the paper it replaces (MGIV). In particular the shape of the shoulder is markedly different.
If the toe is softer, there is more gradual delta density per unit exposure rather than a sharp transition as would be the case with a sharp paper toe. Thus, one sees detail more easily in the soft toe material.
PE
I deleted my earlier, more lengthy post, but I don't agree. Ron and I are talking about different things. Obviously if the soft toe leads to a longer exposure range you can squeeze more in. But that doesn't make the tone reproduction characteristics of that part of the curve "better". It just means the paper has a slightly longer exposure range.
I don't think the long shoulder is necessarily a good thing either.
It is so far my understanding that split grade printing is a different (more convenient, intuitive, efficient...) way to achieve the same end result as printing through filtered light. Are you saying that, e.g. 6s exposure under blue light followed by 4s exposure under green light achieves a result different from 10s with filter transmitting 60% blue and 40% green? Or, more generally, a result that could not be achieved by any type of multigrade filter? Of course, split grade combined with dodging can achieve unique results; but your statement appears to consider split grade (and dodging) on its own merit.Well, you can change the characteristic curve of a print by using split grade printing, and to some extent by dodging. I've used both.
OK then if burning highlights is better at lower grade, then soft paper toe is desirable and PE was right all along.
Except that you sometimes like higher contrast for highlights.
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