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In this conext, you might also be interested in the work of Tatajana van Vark: http://www.tatjavanvark.nl/projects.html She actually can build things like that - and a bit more if you take a closer look at her "harmonium". She also replicated the Antikythera mechanism. Awesome work if you...

I love mechanical calculating devices. I already have a Curta, a planimeter, some slide rules and so on. And thats the thing I want to own next, thank you!

As you have the F100, you could rent the 24mm/1.4 and give it a try. You can replace the 28mm with it and buy something wider. It is one of these lenses that makes me want to buy the F6. The difference to 28mm is next to non-existant.

24mm is a great length for the 35mm format. Save some money to get the best you can.

A great technique, indeed. If I only would be good enough to to calculate and design a new viewfinder for my SWC, printed as 1 piece, spirit level included. Some basic quality coating could be done by the local optician (they also work with these materials, don't they?).

My method only needs a small paintbrush consists of two steps: 1.) I use the brush soaked in isopropyl alcohol to solve oily things. Only use small amounts of liquid. 2.) To remove any residue from step 1, I apply one drop of destilled water to the glass surface and move it around with the...

In terms of usability just buy a Rollei and use it! There is way too much discussion about the various lens types. Just buy the one that fits your wallet and don't worry, be happy! The following might be of interest for techies. I have a limited selection of 2.8F Rolleis, and I think John is...

Cool solution. But I would feel more safe if it would attach directly to the same bolt as the original clamps. To protect the WLF you need the guideance of the bolt. It is ridicolous how complicated it is to use a strap on these cameras :D

I only can compare to a SWC with a prontor shutter, but it is much louder than the Rolleiflexes I have. It sounds harder/brighter with more ringing. I guess the front plate cover of the Flex adds some sound insulation to the relatively quiet compur shutter.

Removal of the complete 120/220 magazine: Press the grey button on the camera's back and rotate the magazine counterclockwise until you can remove it from its bayonet. The darkslide has to be in place! Removal of the film cassette: Open the back door of the magazine by pushing the grey lever...

Improper pronunciation by itself can be funny too, especially here in Germany: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmOTpIVxji8 :whistling:

Considering a light leak, you should expect more or less white pictures. Did you forget the darkslide?

If possibilities are endless, why is reverse engineering needed?

Some of the G lenses are quite great and can justify one additional film body (F6, F100...). They are quite bulky but the ones I have are better sealed than AI(s) lenses. My father's 35/1.4 still does a good job, but it is pretty dusty inside. Personally, I do not hesitate to buy the G...

I can recommend the Gitzo GT1550T for travel. It is quite expensive, but amazingly reliable and strong. Albeit not being a good tripod for MF on its heaviest side, it holds an Fuji GX680 without being damaged (that test was done after replacing the small ball head with a 2 way head)...

I have read about this issue somewhere. All of the answers were "CLA" :/ Nonetheless, you should take a look at the contact pins on both, the lens and the camera body.

I too think your pictures are pretty good for auto exposure - in fact, my camera completely overexposed in dark scenes for the reasons that others have already mentioned here. The tricky thing now is to get proper prints of these contrasty scenes - this could be frustrating, because most labs...

This is true :( My GX680 however is set up to catch some of the promised sunrises...

the F-301 was my first 35mm camera. It is good enough if you don't need MLU and DOF preview. The fixed standart screen can be an issue, too. But on the other hand, the bodies are very cheap. They are not very heavy and the batteries last "forever"... winding is just for transport, for...

As i don't have the original release, I don't know if it is just a switch or a switch in series with a resistor. I used a resistor in series with a switch.

If you can find the proper plug, a DIY solution is (there was a url link here which no longer exists)

It is a great camera system to work with. Altough being handy as a baby tiger, it makes great fun to pick a tripod, the GX and take a walk. Just buy the most copious set that you can find. If you are patient you can get a very nice system for next to nothing. Taking into account that the glass...

I use a small paintbrush, isopropyl aclcohol, and destilled water only in the 2nd run. The surface of coatings tends to be hydrophobic, so I can navigate a small drop of water over the elements. I get perfectly (!) clean glass by that. When the glass becomes fogged, you can't even see cleaning...

If people want to get rid of old stuff and are too lazy for checking the value first, why should I bother?

A nice idea! It leads to the question, if and where exactly the presence of the darkslide is supervised and how this interlock could be tricked. The modification for the GX680 would be the removal of one limit switch in the film holder - or the addition of an external bypass switch. You...

I use the 055XPROB with a Giottos MH1301. It is good considering the price (esp. the Manfrotto legs!) and works okay with my GX 680.

My local shop for large professional prints ect has two fridges containing film from 35mm to 4 x 5. I always buy there.

Currently used: Rollei Bag: 2 x Rolleiflex 2,8F (loaded with B&W negative and colour slide), Sunshade, Rolleinar 1&2, Rolleipol, Red, Orange, Yellow, Green Filter. Gitzo GT1550T & Rolleifix Gossen Variosix F2, Cable release, Film. Fuji GX680 Bag: Have to find a real bag for the...

Open the camera, leave it in a well vented place for 2-3 weeks. For leather parts, try saddle soap. It works quite nice. Do not apply too much at once. Be patient and rub gently with a soft cloth only. After that, let it "breathe" a bit again and cover the leather with some wax.

Wait a year or two. "Almost 3" is too young. Give him some lenses to play with first. I would not call it a "poor skill" when he is not able to handle a camera correctly. I think you expect way too much. "poorly composed"... hahaha. Sorry, children do not function this way. The son of my...