Have you tested it with another lens? Or, when you manually focus, can you get a satisfactorily sharp image in the viewfinder?
By the way, the lens you mention is one I haven't even heard of.
Well 2F/2F aren't Fuji c41 chems optimized for Fuji films? A local lab uses Fuji chems and I have always wondered if that was part of my issue with ektar, and also why my Fuji stuff seemed generally better from the lab than when done at home using different chems.
That said, I do agree that...
Jerrell I am not sure whether the af has this too, but in the afd viewfinder there are focus confirmation indicators. I find it quite useful. You see a circle when the focus is correct, or arrows when it is not. But there is only one focus point and it is in the center of the frame, so... it...
P.S. in LF (and maybe MF too), if necessary, you can hand dodge rather than use a grad. You get yourself a darkslide or such.... something matte black. You hold it over the part of your lens corresponding to the bright areas you want to get less exposure, using your GG image to judge how to do...
I wouldn't use fill on a scene like this. The slope of the foreground means that the light won't be even... there will be flash falloff. And it will show. Usually.
Yep, do save up and try a grad filter. They can be used on any format. And you will quickly run into problems trying to...
I don't have my afd here with me but I vaguely recall encountering similar things when I got it and wanted to check it out. If I remember correctly, there is some interlock that deploys a curtain to protect the shutter when the back is open. I think you need to use MLU and then fire the...
If you're going to be scanning until you have a darkroom ready, my suggestion is to use a staining developer (I use wd2d+). The resulting negs will scan better, while also being very nicely printable via traditional, optical methods.
Not to interrupt your conversation with Lars, but... there is looong thread about visualization versus pre-visualization in which I and many others were engaged. Some asserted quite strongly that there is no difference between the two. Some others pointed out that Adams had no use for the...
I am suggesting processing normally, while simply rating the film a half to a full stop slower.
I agree with the suggestion to try ektar as well. My first impression of it was mixed, but honestly I haven't spent much time with it so far.
But again, anybody who hasn't tried slide...
Not anymore. But you could also rate one of the 160 films at 80-100 or so and you'll also get strong primaries. With the Fuji 400 colour neg film, you'd need to rate closer to 200 to get the strong primaries.
Disclaimer: I am not saying the result will look exactly like velvia. I am simply...
Thanks all! I really appreciate the comments and support, particularly at a time when uncertainty seems to have crept back into my life :rolleyes:
Sparky, I am familiar with Mapplethorpe's floral work and I really appreciate that comment. Indeed my take on these subjects is to imagine the...
Anthotypes are arguably the oldest form of photographic prints.
It's not archival, but you can do it and get good results. In addition to direct leaf prints, you can also extract the pigments from green or red leaves or flowers and coat those onto paper and do it that way.
A noted modern...
Thanks Sparky, I appreciate your comments very much. If it's a new level then it's about time, I've been in a funk.
Eli, I agree, I have some dodge and burn to do next time around. Also, the print isn't quite flat yet so it didn't scan very well and I noticed some odd tonality toward the...
Another object form the garden. This is my first test print of a squash blossom macro shot last year on delta 400. Sepia/selenium split on ilford warmtone. Next print will be a grade lower in contrast, I think.
Rating at a lower speed will indeed increase exposure. And/but: how you meter can be every bit as important as how you rate your film. I find that people tend to meter in such a way as to protect the highlights. To see if you have that tendency, try metering off a grey card and see how that...
You could just scratch up some plastic and lay it over the neg when you contact print. No reason to scratch the actual emulsion. If working from a paper neg then you could just draw (with a pencil) some lines on the backside, which will then be white streaks in the positive image. These can...
That the field of view is the same, doesn't mean that the bellows factor is taken into account. The lens designs are very different, at least if we are comparing typical 35mm lenses to LF lenses, so lens-to-film distance is very different, and falloff can be very different too. There are...
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