First of all, I mean no harm or insult to the advertiser nor the business and do appreciate that they may be making contributions to APUG.
And yes, hybridphoto was created (I thought) specifically for these types of discussions.
My point is that I thought that all of us here were engaged in...
Aaaargh!!!! Ralph, how could you! ;)
The closest thing I ever saw to a sensible ranking system was done by a site called camerareview (I don't see it online any more). Their ranking method wasn't perfect by any means, but there were hundreds of votes and people wrote comments, some quite...
P.S. also note that the current (aerial) panatomic-x is likely not the same thing as what we have in type 55. All I have said (and others too, if I remember correctly), is that there appears to be a close resemblance. But the aerial stuff probably differs in terms of spectral sensitivity...
What Kirk says is true, and I (for one) definitely couldn't do it for free. I also doubt that a commercial lab would entertain an external order if they suspect that there is a current patent or something that could get them named on a lawsuit. Maybe that's not an issue any more, I don't know...
I can do Raman, IR and UV-vis in my lab, that should nail down all the components. What's it worth to ya though? ;) I think if you just develop panatomic x in a monobath, you'll come extremely close.
Yes, it's extremely rare to find an RB or RZ without the rotating adapter piece already mounted on it. I had my RB for more than a year before realizing that the rotating bit could be detached. Just be sure when you buy that you do get it, i.e. ask and be sure. You could call KEH and be sure...
What's your budget?
I can think of one camera that will get you in the game for a ~$300 bucks... e.g. a mamiya m645 with 80/1.9 lens. I can think of another totally different system that will cost ~50x as much but has certain other advantages. Budget will narrow things down considerably...
I did indeed see the smiley face, but... I could say: "Ilford b&w film is best, then Fuji, then Kodak... :D ;) " etc. and it still is an annoying thing to read!
Don't get me wrong: I think it's wonderful when experienced people present substantiated opinions. But I also think it's awful when...
Complete nonsense, in my opinion!
There is no way to rank the systems like this. One photographer will say it's all about lp/mm; another will say, no! it's all about bokeh; another will say it's bang for the buck; another will say it's all about form factor; another will say it's about...
Mamiya 6 or 6MF. After several years, still my favourite camera all 'round... and the only camera body that I have three of! Well worth the expense, especially when you put it up against the fixed lens new bessa. In my opinion, the 6 is rivalled/exceeded only by the considerably bulkier...
Good idea. If it were me, I'd go with a crown graphic and instant film e.g. PA45 back and fp100b/100c. Your profit margin would then be much narrower than it would be with ordinary film, but people really conditioned to see results quickly.
The reason why I went with the EL nikkors is that they can all be had at reasonable prices, and there is a good selection of focal lengths. That, coupled with what Harry just said about consistency, was my main motivation.
I doubt very seriously that this in any way reflects overall growth of the 4x5 sector or the QL product line.
What Fuji may be realizing is that they can keep this product line afloat long enough to transfer it to another company working in a more favorable climate for the product, such as in...
The economic climate being what it is, it doesn't surprise me one bit that these decisions are being revisited on month by month timescales. It is an unfortunate roller-coaster ride for the faithful, that is too bad. Suffice it to say that Fuji is hearing plenty about all this.
Yes, and NB's work may also be found in the current Audubon magazine. Gorgeous b&w work, and very different from the high-colour fare normally found in magazines like Nat. Geo.
Brandt is a member here; you could search for his posts under the username "nickbran", they are quite informative...
Well there is a pretty big difference between 80 and 135. Somewhere you should find a table of which lenses will give you what magnification at what bellows draw.
Anyway everybody needs an 80, I'd say go for the Nikkor 80. But I don't think you can lose on any of these.
These currency fluctuations are wreaking havoc on stock valuations and things like metals prices. If the Chinese would simply unpin their currency then the actual currency values would be a lot more realistic and we might all have a much clearer view of what the world economy is actually doing...
Falloff is the major issue, if you are pushing the lens coverage to its limits. You want smooth illlumination right to the corners and for large prints you may need to stop down substantially.
Regarding sharpness, I find that to be less of an issue than I thought it would be. Use a grain...
I prefer to call the nonlinear portions the toe and knee; then the part in between can be called the shin... and if you look down at your leg, you see exactly what's going on ;)
Note that most discussions of how to control the toe and knee/shoulder are in the context of b&w film. You can...
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