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Because they are different films. There are many threads on Photrio that go into more information and detail than I care to type.

Have the camera checked with all the lenses. It might be one adjustment or a complete CLA.

I standardized the development time to 2 minutes with Dektol to eliminate variations in development time and adjust the aperture or exposure time or both to darken the blacks.

No, that is the beauty of split grade printing.

For years I used an ND filter for the WideLux F7 which has the fastest shutter speed of 1/250 second and smallest aperture of f/11 with ISO 400.

Was this taken from a ski lift or were up to your hips in snow?

"kilo" as in kilogram means 1000 or 10+3

It appears that with that lighting there are no artifacts. Now check it in bright sunlight and with bright sunlight coming directly into the lens.

Is that clear enough?

Welcome to APUG Photrio!!

MDC would be much more useful if it did not have so many errors and inaccuracies.

Again you are wrong about ending up in the middle. With split grade printing the two are separate and the yellow will not reduce the overall contrast, on darken the high lights. It one were to compare a split grade print to a grade 2 or 2.5 print, then one would see there is a great difference...

Erroneous information. It is NOT grade 2.

Correct. Increase the magenta time.

No, split grade is not grade 2, it is split grade with the best for magenta and the best for yellow. It does not fall in between the two. Any one grade is too narrow for many subjects. That is why split grade exists and is so widely used.

The Pentax spot meter is a reflectance meter, not an incident meter.

Welcome to APUG Photrio!!

No, it is much better to use split grade filtering and expose for maximum magenta and maximum yellow and single grades be damned. Single grade is a one size fits all approach and we know that that does not work in the real world many times.

The problem is that some of the sensors are restricted to receiving light mostly perpendicular to their surface and they are unable to take light the is off perpendicular by larger angles. Film is not so picky and will take all comers. When there were several sensors for the Hasselblads this...

Blinded by the light!

I focus without the filters, there is a switch for white light with my enlarger, then switch the filters in and stop down the lens. That is the theory. Sometimes I forget to stop down the lens which leads to the paper turning black immediately in the wet dark room. Then I trudge back to the...

I suspect that the dehumidifier is over drying the negatives. A damp or humid room is better for drying film and not have curling problems.

Well with the finger prints, we can track down the offenders now.

If I were to use tabular grain film, then I would prefer Delta 100 over HP5+, but I still prefer Tri-X 400 over both.

If you shot 6x6 instead of 645 you would not have to roll the camera over to shoot vertically. Shoot square.

Opps, sometning else we agree on.

Free darkroom facilities after hours for employees.

I perfer Tri-X grain to HP5+ even after I developed the later longer. I am will to pay for the better product of me. Heck, gas and eggs have gone up in price more.

For example some digital backs did not work well on the Hasselblad SWCs.

So we are close to the same age.