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I would guess that for the smaller one it would be best to measure how big a roll can your film loader (bulk loader) can hold. And use this measure as your target outer diameter.

I see you will end up with a 400' roll of 17.5mm film, an actual movie format.

I find incident metering the most consistent metering there is. Works for me with 100% rate of success. If you are shooting a normal scene, such as a portrait with a normal background and normal (not extreme) lighting, and the incident meter is placed on your subject pointing to the most...

I just cut that last part of the film, with a scissor. I don't like anything contaminating my chemicals (i reuse the developer back into the bottle).

I've seen 70mm film, and backs, and even the cassetes. But what's rare to see are the loaders, and the film development tanks.

You mean me, AgX, Sirius Glass, Paul Howell, cholentpot, benjiboy, cooltouch, Les Sarile, and all the other guys are an ILLUSION?!?!

President of the Apuggers

You worked fighting against auto-focus photographers? Somebody give this man an award, please. Well done.

Yes, you move the film position so it sees a different part within the image circle.

This one is very good... Although i still think "Fehler in allen Teilen" is the best...

Easy if you think the solution is "increasing curtain tension", which is the bad, BAD advice some YouTube DIY videos tell you. This is not the correct solution and will damage your camera in the long run (and not so long, really).

No, one can't "do it yourself", unless he/she is an advanced repairman. I am a camera tech and the New F-1 is one of the most difficult cameras to service properly (as well as one of my favorite cameras to use. Heck, i'm literally wearing a "Canon F-1" t-shirt right now, custom-made.) Only...

Just to nitpick, and to make sure nobody is confused... One can have two focal length lenses of 50mm. But their coverage and their angle of view can be completely different. For example a 50mm for the 135 format will have a coverage of at least 24x36mm, and the angle of view at such coverage...

Yes! This is exactly what happens when you use shift lenses (on 35mm and medium format cameras). It's equivalent to rising or lowering the front of a view camera. Or laterally shifting it. But the goal (well, one of the possible goals) is not to correct the distortion generated by the lens...

Yes, this is normal on constant-aperture zoom lenses. At the short end the diaphragm automatically stops down to maintain the constant f3.5 speed.

In the past, it was an overlooked (ignored) camera. Then it became an appreciated camera. Today, it's an overrated camera. I woulnd't place it on the top 5 fd cameras, really. (btw my top would be:) 1. Canon New F-1 2. F-1 3. T-70 and T-90 (tie) 4. A-1 and AE-1P (tie) 5. FTb, AT-1, TX (tie)

I stand corrected, thanks.

But this assumes Fujifilm isn't manufacturing any color film. I find this hard to believe. And ADOX will probably manufacture a new batch of ADOX Color Mission soon. And OrWo (i know, part of the group where ADOX is) has announced it will manufacture a ECN-2 movie film.

@MattKing waiting for you to steer this thread back to the original topic, really it seems the APUGgers here have shifted their brain horsepower into other interests and here we are sparking off topic content. We need you to signal the turning light so we can return to the original discussion...

This is the best answer really. And a Pentacon Six with the WLF is a quite compact medium format camera. You want biometar-like rendering? Nothing like the real stuff!

Which Kiev? 60? 88? They can be very reliable if a good technician services them. BTW, I love your username.

This is Ektachrome 100 Plus (EPP), a '90s film used extensively by professionals while kodachrome was still available and development was available, etc. Look how the slopes match more closely compared to above (except in the deep shadows). And this isn't even the best Ektachrome film, there...

And some d*gital post-processing to shift shadows in color. This will get you closer to the glorious KODACHROME LOOK!!! In case somebody didn't notice, i'm being sarcastic. These are the curves for K25: You can see the R (red) has a different slope. This film will never maintain the same...

Hi The problem is not on the finder. The problem is within the camera. The display of shutter speed is done through a pulley (cord) and the length of the cord has varied for some reason. DO NOT attempt to fix it yourself or to open up the New F-1 camera yourself. This is a camera for...

"King for a day"

You'll need to specify what do you expect with "biometar-like rendering". Maybe with some examples. Most medium format camera systems had at least one short-tele lens with awesome bokeh. For example: Mamiya 135/4.5 for the TLR system, Mamiya 180/4.5 for the RB67.

It depends on what you consider "soft", also it depends if you're looking at the center vs corner. I had a Canon FD 55/1.2 that, wide open, was rather good in the center, sharp. But the corners, not so much; still acceptable.

Benjiboy, a forum member with over eleven thousands posts, member for more than 15 years here, a well-liked member here, and deserves respect.

I don't think King cameras are too obscure, really. But i didn't know they attempted a SLR. Can't find pictures on the web...

The Bronica ETR series have an official 70mm back, so i'd guess the SQ series also had one.