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I got a Kienzle C252 with an LED head a couple years back and it was roughly $14k. Suffice to say the ROI on this has been zero...but I do love it.
I got a Kienzle C252 with an LED head a couple years back and it was roughly $14k. Suffice to say the ROI on this has been zero...but I do love it.

The question I have is have you enlarged any color negatives with this lovely beast? What amazing technology, I'm jealous![]()
I have, but I have been so discouraged by the standard commercially available cut sheet paper that Fuji is selling that I've all but given up on RA4. I know I can buy better paper stocks from various vendors but it's more of a pain than clicking 'buy' from B&H.
Enlarging B&W has been a total joy. The split grade system they have is very good, though it can also be frustrating when it doesn't work.
Sadly I'm mostly printing with the Canon Pro1100. Though not so sadly, this printer is absolutely exceeding my expectations even with B&W, and I've done Piezography.
I hear you on paper. Last time I looked the Fuji cut paper that was stocked by B&H was 8x10 and 11x14, nothing larger.
Color sheet film is becoming an endangered object. Truly.
I've had great results with Canon inkjet. I don't try to scan color negative just positive.
Well, I just ordered a 30 inch wide roll of Fuji Maxima. Now I just have to wait and see if it comes in a reasonable time or not. All the international chaos at the moment doesn't bode well for supply lines, mfg energy cost, or shipping expenses. I could always default to a roll of Super C instead and save a hundred bucks to boot, but I really want to try Maxima.
mshchem - There is PLENTY of Fuji color paper available in this country, both in product variety and in rolls widths, but nothing in cut sheet anymore except entry level CA. B&H lists only a small portion of the Fuji RA4 paper lineup. Inkjet is a whole different topic with a different look; not my cup of tea.
I still haven't seen any actual visual evidence of how well a Kienzle LED pancake head would work or hold up vs time-tested halogen colorheads, especially for large color prints. My own 8x10 color enlargers will outlive me, so I probably never will find out. But still, it's a topic worthy of curiosity. People being able to afford 8x10 color film going forward into the future, well, that's the really tough question.
Hopefully the Eastman Kodak reintegration of distribution and marketing will pan out well.
Neither Eastman Kodak nor Kodak Alaris have any say any more about RA4 paper.
Eastman Kodak left that market at the time of the bankruptcy, and Kodak Alaris sold the small amount of the remaining market it had to Sino promise.
Save perhaps any licensing revenue that might be happening if someone else decides to make the paper and wants to put the Kodak name on it, which might benefit Eastman Kodak.
The 1840 is cosmetically dressed up a little more with some metal skirts covering the elevation gearing, etc. A few more bells n' whistles, that's all. With the 184, the bellows extension/focus motor was an option, and certainly a helpful one; also the upper column head position motor (I have both on my 184).
Horizontal projection is easy; but in that case, you'd want rails on the floor to match the sheave rollers on the enlarger.
A well-leveled and stiff floor is essential. I once used one mainly in horizontal mode.
It's FUJIFILM Crystal Archive and here is the datasheet: https://fujihalide-live.s3.eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/05130537/PIB-CA.pdf The only difference between the datasheet and the Adox paper is that the Adox paper has no back print and of course it's only available in the cut-sheet sizes distributed by Adox, not the roll sizes in the datasheet. The paper as such is the same.The Adox paper listed at B&H doesn't specify what it is other than Adox CA 310. No spec sheet. It would be nice if Adox would cut some really nice paper, but I doubt it.
IMO there's nothing sad about it; as you said, those prints can be drop-dead gorgeous and then there's the enormous flexibility that digital print affords. It's a different medium from RA4, of course. They have their own strengths & weaknesses, although inkjet still sees development whereas RA4 is end-of-life, so pretty much static in terms of innovation.Sadly I'm mostly printing with the Canon Pro1100. Though not so sadly, this printer is absolutely exceeding my expectations even with B&W, and I've done Piezography.
For anyone wondering I was told that the 1840 has its optical axis further away from the column. Therefore, it can make bigger enlargements while projecting on the baseboard and without resorting to horizontal projection.
It's FUJIFILM Crystal Archive and here is the datasheet: https://fujihalide-live.s3.eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/05130537/PIB-CA.pdf The only difference between the datasheet and the Adox paper is that the Adox paper has no back print and of course it's only available in the cut-sheet sizes distributed by Adox, not the roll sizes in the datasheet. The paper as such is the same.
IMO there's nothing sad about it; as you said, those prints can be drop-dead gorgeous and then there's the enormous flexibility that digital print affords. It's a different medium from RA4, of course. They have their own strengths & weaknesses, although inkjet still sees development whereas RA4 is end-of-life, so pretty much static in terms of innovation.
For anyone wondering I was told that the 1840 has its optical axis further away from the column. Therefore, it can make bigger enlargements while projecting on the baseboard and without resorting to horizontal projection.
I currently have a Durst L1840 but if I need a replacement I’d go for a new Keinzle C252.
Took some rooting around to find it.Further away then the durst 184. floor standing versions. Not confirmed
My L184 has a 40 inch baseboard too, although I have another base atop it even wider, plus a set of copy lights, so I can alternatively used the same rig as a deluxe copystand. Two allegedly different designs sure look similar to me if the cover of the 1840 is removed to reveal the actual gearing mechanism. Colorheads are a different story, and were largely interchangeable all along. Their 2000 W versions ran just too hot and utility bill expensive for me - that's why I designed my own 1500 W pulsing RGB head instead.
Like this? To complete the Frankenstein configuration, mine has a De Vere 507 Dichromat MkII head.There were hybrids which had a dual column L184 lower half with an oversized baseboard, but a single column 138 upper half. Just as tall as a regular 184.
Like this? To complete the Frankenstein configuration, mine has a De Vere 507 Dichromat MkII head.

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