I don’t quite understand — I want to use it on a Hasselblad 500C, not on a view camera. I just can’t stop thinking that the flange should be convertible to Hasselblad V. In the end, the backs, the sensor, and everything else are identical, aren’t they?
The one on the netherlandic website would be perfect for me, perfect price.
There are some distance differences from a Hasselblad V, which has a mechanical interlock interface with it's back, to that of a Hasselblad H, which has an electronic interface (although the H1 did have mechanical interlocks too)
Early CCD backs need 2 signals, a wake-up to make the CCD ready (needs a few 100 milliseconds) and a pre-trigger to start the exposure (about 30 milliseconds). They have also been designed such that an X-sync with a leaf shutter is enough to trigger the exposure, because all the pixels are under exposure when the x-sync is triggered.
The Hasselblad V backs use the darkslide interlock pin to wake up the back. The X or FP sync then triggers the exposure. These backs can be modified such that the wake-up signal also starts the exposure for a fixed time. Thus when you push the shutter button in, the back is woke, starts exposure, when then the shutter opens and closes, records the image on the sensor. If you are too slow, then the sensor turns off before the exposure is finished, or started. Modified backs allow you to shoot digital backs on a Hasselblad V without any cords. Which has it's advantages.
On a Hasselblad H back, the wakeup and pre-trigger are all done via the electronic interface. The flange back distance is also different. The modifications would include adding the mechanical wake-up switch and wiring it into the back such that the software can recognize it. If you can do that, please PLEASE let us know how it can be done
You can manually wake up the back and trigger it, which is how they use these on view cameras.
Later backs (like the P65) don't need a wakeup signal. So you can machine a new flange to fit a V body and just have a sync cable, but these backs are still quite expensive.
If you machine a new flange for the P25 H-back that you linked earlier, you would still need to give the back a wakeup signal before you can capture an image. An extra button or cable release, and you have to take the picture immediately after the wakeup.