It may be more accurate to say that the problem is that NB23 doesn't like the look of TMAX 100 in XTOL - which he is perfectly entitled to do - but that the result of the combo is "dullness overkill", which description people are perfectly entitled to disagree with.
Thanks Sal. Yes, it all boils down to "There's no accounting for taste."
Likewise, digital capture is its own tool kit capable of many various things, though it can't bag anywhere near as long a brightness scale in a single capture.
I'm curious-- what is the practical dynamic range of film such as TMX? I'm not referring to torture tests where people try +15 stops of overexposure to prove the film can still retain detail, but for a real world scene, how much range can TMX handle?
10 stops of range on digital has become commonplace, 12 isn't unusual, and 14 isn't unheard of.
I'm curious-- what is the practical dynamic range of film such as TMX? I'm not referring to torture tests where people try +15 stops of overexposure to prove the film can still retain detail, but for a real world scene, how much range can TMX handle?
10 stops of range on digital has become commonplace, 12 isn't unusual, and 14 isn't unheard of.
I'm curious-- what is the practical dynamic range of film such as TMX? I'm not referring to torture tests where people try +15 stops of overexposure to prove the film can still retain detail, but for a real world scene, how much range can TMX handle?
HP5+ has too much grain for my liking, for nature photography in 35mm. I feel like I printed my beach scene through a "grain" texture screen.
Like NB23, all the choices I made in the past are behind me. What's done is done and this discussion relates to choices for the future.
I love grain but I want grain to be so close to the natural subject that it can be confused for real detail.
So I have Panatomic-X and TMAX100 for the times when I want the best.
But I want something faster. Faster than TMAX100 which I know is exactly 100. I am not comfortable pushing it.
TMY2 at 250 is too grainy (in 35mm). Now I find HP5+ at 100 is too grainy. They are perfectly fine films... I just want something fast and fine-grained.
My best guess is that I will be happiest with Double-X at 250 (effectively 125 with a Yellow filter) as my fast film in 35mm and Panatomic-X at 32 (effectively 16 with a Yellow filter) as a slow film.
I'm stubborn about developer, it's going to be D-76 1:1
But TMAX100 at 100 without a yellow filter has a lot to recommend it.
TMY + XTOL, now that's a much more interesting combo.
To be honest, I always found that TMX was a tool rather than a pictorial film. It's got this very linear response, so you need to work hard to bend the curve to your liking. This can actually be an advantage for some photographers, depending on workflows.
Here's what happened: Xtol gets TMX about 1/2 stop faster & shoulders quite a bit earlier compared to D-76. Thus if you're a bit generous exposure-wise with TMX in D-76, you'll be mostly OK, still on the straight line & you won't get into a fight with the paper curve - however Xtol kicks your shadow speed up & with a bit too generous exposure to begin with, you've gone far enough up the curve to have compressed your highlights enough that getting them to print well is going to be a pain. This is what you are seeing (BTDT with Delta 3200). The other emulsions you name don't have the same early shouldering in Xtol. So, as I said, it's an exposure question, not a fundamental flaw - and the effect helps to stop people with process control problems completely screwing up their highlight density & then whining about that.
Are you sure that XX has finer grain than TMY-2? I haven't used XX but it seems unlikely to me. TMY-2 has grain of about the same magnitude as FP4+.
I don’t know. Still experimenting… I know that I want something with an ISO faster than TMAX100. And I want the grain to be finer than TMY2
Bill, XX has a higher rms granularity than Tri-X, (17 vs. 16 IIRC, could be wrong) which is why I like it. I am not one for small grain. Your best bet for faster film with the smallest grain is going to be either TMax 400 or Delta 400.
Bill Obviously grain is affected by film size and final enlargement size of the print. What camera are you shooting with? Also, I assume you're using a tripod so you could use slower film like Tmax 100?
One of the labs I use developes with XTOL. So when I shoot Tmax 100 and Tmax 400, what considerations should I make? I scan the film afterward so printing will be done that way.
Don't give in to the temptation to overdo the exposure by a considerable safety margin.
Wish the RMS numbers were easier to find. Has anyone created an amateur test I could try?
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