I suppose that's the case, but the problem is still finding a form factor that will fit the space. The ubiquitous 9-volt rectangular battery with the two snaps on one end might work electrically, and they are everywhere (at least here in the US) but they are about twice as big as would fit in a Tilt-a-Mite. Don't know if two 3.x volt lithium cells might fit end-to-end; also not sure if they would work, but that could be a direction to look.It does not need to be 15V.
Batteries were chosen under different aspects. These may be voltage (to counter contact resistance), capacity, dimensions resp. volume and availability.
A standard flash battery size in West-Germany was a tiny 6V battery.
A 12V battery can be installed in the space taken by a 15V one.
So did II thought all flashes had capacitors.
I have several samples of A23 batteries and they are smaller in diameter and lenght than the 15V ones.A23 battery is 28.5 mm long and 10.3 mm in diameter, which does not fit reasonably in a space designed for
34.9mm x 15.1mm x 15.9mm battery
The flash contacts will see the battery voltage. The capacitor charges up to the battery voltage through a small resistor. Some of the discussion earlier in this thread suggested using a lower voltage battery, but I've not seen anyone here indicating they tried a lower voltage battery successfully.Could anybody tell me the output voltage in the PC sync cord? Is it 15V even with the capacitor? If not, is it possible to get it lesser without compromising the bulb firing? I want to be sure that it is compatible with all radio wireless transmitters...
The "light saber" I have holds three D cells, no capacitor.I thought all flashes had capacitors.
Back in the day flashes called for photoflash batteries instead of the normal carbon zinc batteries used in everything else. The reason was that the photoflash batteries were engineered to deliver the higher current, instant demand requirements of bulbs.
I thought sall flash guns had capacitators?Probably receiving a replacement cap today and it occurred to me that my other flash guns, like one on a Hawkeye Brownie or on my Polaroid land simply has a battery to ignite the flashbulb.
Any idea why the tilt-a-mite has a cap? esp since it uses a 15 volt battery you'd think it wouldn't be needed.
Pic for reference
https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5058/5424747977_47f718fee4_b.jpg
Maybe to try to eliminate as much delay as possible?
Hi Jim, yes, that gets it down to the bare essentials! The claimed Tilt-a-Mite schematic I posted came from some other online source and didn't originate with me, I've never dug that deeply into the internals of my Tilt-a-Mite (which probably hasn't fired a flashbulb in 40 years!)Here is the basic BC flash circuit as I recall it from long ago. The capacitor isn't charged until a flash bulb is inserted. The resistor limits the charging current to much less than required to trigger the flash, but quickly charges the capacitor. When the sync contacts close, the bulb is connected directly across the capacitor. The current briefly drawn by the sync contacts through the resistor is not enough to significantly deplete the battery. Excuse the crude drawing.
Nay! I would argue the shape of the flash is set by incredibly rapid oxidation of shredded magnesium -- we are talking flash bulbs here. Technology only a step or two beyond the trough full of flash powder!It is part of the timing circuit. It controls the shape of the flash.
Yes, the "shape of the flash", the output/time characteristic curve is only determined by the flash bulb or rather the oxidizing pprocess taking place. Such can be tweaked by some parameters, and that is why there are bulbs with quite different characteristics.
The role of the electrics is only to make that tiny resistor wire inside the bulb hot, from then on it's to the bulb itself....
Yes, the "shape of the flash", the output/time characteristic curve is only determined by the flash bulb or rather the oxidizing pprocess taking place. Such can be tweaked by some parameters, and that is why there are bulbs with quite different characteristics.
The role of the electrics is only to make that tiny resistor wire inside the bulb hot, from then on it's to the bulb itself....
Back in the days when we sold such things, "BC" meant "battery-capacitor" and yes, the capacitor was there so the flash would continue to work, even with a weak battery.........Regards!So with these flashes, as the battery gets weak the bulb firing becomes impossible sooner?
I know non-BC flashes existed.
In the case of the Polaroid flash, it is called a 'Polaroid BC flash model 281' -- for Bulb-Capacitor
So OP, are you thinking about a different Polaroi flash than the one I mention?
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