If Bessler was still making these, they would be one of the leaders in camera scanning.
I use one of these with a Nikon 750 and an APO Componon HM MC 90/4.5... eliminates a lot of problems and is extremely versatile...
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Yes, I know all that.
For someone just starting out - if they already have a flash but no LED light panel - then how much sense does it make to pay $160 for the Kaiser SlimLite? And what kind of shutter speeds can you get using it? So, yes, 'seriously' I think it does make sense to consider a flash for anyone who may want sharper images (shorter exposure times) or higher color accuracy compared to some (many?) LED panels.
Commonly available in various conditions on e**y...If Bessler was still making these, they would be one of the leaders in camera scanning.
I went all in with Negative Supply.Commonly available in various conditions on e**y...
Thanks for sharing. I envy your shutter speed; my focal plane shutter syncs at 1/180th, but I’m used to working in a darkened room.Here is my test rig for digitizing 4x5 black and white negatives with Bowens Esprit 500 flashhead and tethered Hasselblad H3DII 39 in Phocus software. I use a frosted white piece of glass on top of the flash head where I changed the modelling ligt to a small LED, because the heat from the original halogen bulb made the negatives curl rather quickly. As negative holder I use the Pixl-later https://www.pixl-latr.com/
Set-up by Michael G, on Flickr
Phocus screendump showing tethered use of Hasselblad as digitizer. by Michael G, on Flickr
I found that the flashhead had to be on minimum and the best settings would be f8 and 1/800 sec to avoid shake, diffraction and influence from room light.
You are welcome.Thanks for sharing. I envy your shutter speed; my focal plane shutter syncs at 1/180th, but I’m used to working in a darkened room.
That is exactly the kind of photo I was hoping to see! Thanks for posting!My current setup. I scan anywhere's from a couple hundred to a couple thousand plus rolls a month with this setup, depending on how busy it is.
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But the exposure is made at the brief duration of the flash, not by shutter speed.Thanks for sharing. I envy your shutter speed; my focal plane shutter syncs at 1/180th, but I’m used to working in a darkened room.
That is exactly the kind of photo I was hoping to see! Thanks for posting!
So, the flash is aimed at the interior of the box - white paint inside, I assume?
What do you use for a focusing light?
But the exposure is made at the brief duration of the flash, not by shutter speed.
Yes, every shot with flash is combination of exposure from ambient and exposure from flash! When slide duplicating with flash, the difference between X-sync at 1/60 vs X-synch at 1/200 is not much, since the ambient contribution is minimal.Yes and no. Even when using flash, you're still making an ambient light exposure. It's just a matter of whether or not that exposure level is low enough to not encroach on the flash exposure.
Did you add an extra 35 masking plate so the film can feed straight through the brushes and into the carrier? So far that is one of my annoyances with the Negative Supply setup.
Thanks. Saxons' pretty sharp but there are occassional glitches. I modified the riser by adding longer screws and nuts so I could lock the feet in place. I have an extra 35 mask and know where to get longer screws, I might give it a try. Good looking setup, BTW.No. It's so I can rapidly switch between the 35mm carrier and the 120 carrier without switching the underlying plate that has the tabs sticking up for the 120 carrier. That and it gives enough clearance for the motorized transport so it sits flat. Without that small amount of extra space, the motor collides with one of the screws in the base plate and it doesn't sit flat, which makes aligning that much more difficult.
I think this is pretty genius. I'm not sure I have the native coordination to use a setup like this without tripping on itHere is my test rig for digitizing 4x5 black and white negatives with Bowens Esprit 500 flashhead and tethered Hasselblad H3DII 39 in Phocus software. I use a frosted white piece of glass on top of the flash head where I changed the modelling ligt to a small LED, because the heat from the original halogen bulb made the negatives curl rather quickly. As negative holder I use the Pixl-later https://www.pixl-latr.com/
Set-up by Michael G, on Flickr
Phocus screendump showing tethered use of Hasselblad as digitizer. by Michael G, on Flickr
I found that the flashhead had to be on minimum and the best settings would be f8 and 1/800 sec to avoid shake, diffraction and influence from room light.
Wow, first time I've seen this. Do these get HOT?? Very interesting!I use a ROSCO LitePad Axiom as, to my personal experience, the tonality of digital photography is a little 'broader' with continuous light.
http://www.photoeil.be/the-making-of.html
My current setup. I scan anywhere's from a couple hundred to a couple thousand plus rolls a month with this setup, depending on how busy it is.
Thanks. Saxons' pretty sharp but there are occassional glitches. I modified the riser by adding longer screws and nuts so I could lock the feet in place. I have an extra 35 mask and know where to get longer screws, I might give it a try. Good looking setup, BTW.
This is precisely what I had in mind, except my test setup was with a cardboard box.
I'm using a tablet for a light source now and haven't built the lower box, but I really appreciate your photograph for if I ever do stop being lazy and building my own flash box.
I was thinking a white surface or mirror at a 45 degree angle to redirect the light up through the film holder - have you tried that? The box would need to be much thicker (taller). I was thinking of angling the reflector 45* one way for the flash, then rotating it to 45* the other way for the focusing light. Make sense?The biggest challenge is getting the light distribution inside the box to be as evenly spread out as possible over the 120 or 4x5 area. It's not as simple as just painting the inside a very reflective color like white or chrome.
The biggest challenge is getting the light distribution inside the box to be as evenly spread out as possible over the 120 or 4x5 area. It's not as simple as just painting the inside a very reflective color like white or chrome.
or mirror at a 45 degree angl
Wow, first time I've seen this. Do these get HOT?? Very interesting!
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