Thanks for your reply, please see my latest reply to Kodaks
Whenever I see Mobberly, I think of this:
So I'm always surprised by your American cinema references!![]()
LOL, I see what you did thereSome day soon we are bound to have someone join us on Photrio who is called Harmon.
Yes I too have always wondered about his background![]()
Some day soon we are bound to have someone join us on Photrio who is called Harmon. Just imagine the confusion then
pentaxuser
OK, your processing sounds OK. I have heard occasional complaints related to final rinse/stabilizer. You could try to process a roll and skip that step, and just do a final rinse in demineralized/distilled water with some photoflo.
Assume that all information is relevant.
I used the same method again, with fresh chemicals and unexpired Kodak Gold 200 for a quick test. I processed it using a Nikor stainless steel tank following the Ilfcolor instructions: 3 minutes 15 seconds for development, 6 minutes 30 seconds for bleaching, and 4 minutes 20 seconds for fixing. After pouring in the bleach, I accidentally dropped the cap, which caused a delay of a few seconds before I started agitation. For the final wash, I used filtered water at 30°C with the Ilford wash method, extending it to 8 cycles. I finished with Photo Flo and distilled water for the final rinse. However, some speckle-like spots still appeared and could not be washed off, even after trying to clean them with ethanol. There are some of these speckle-like spots on both the emulsion side and the base side, with the base side being more obvious and severe.
Try without the photoflo. The problem does seem a lot less pronounced than it was before.
Please note that dust can also drop onto the film as it dries. Sometimes, a problem like this really is a matter of picking the best place in your home to dry the film in and then ensure there's as little airflow/disturbance in that room as possible to prevent kicking up dust.
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