Which Hasselblad digital back, used?

[RezaLoghme]

How about the option to use existing Hasselblad lenses on an existing Hasselblad digital camera?

You could go for an H4/5/6D with digital back, then find the C to H lens adapter......retaining your investment in C/CF glass?

Mike

I think that is the best idea.

 

[NortheastPhotographic]

Way back when I was using V Series Hasselblads, I wanted one of those.

Eventually I came to terms with reality and switched to Leica M system, which is as modular and versatile like hell. It even has EVFs, which helped me to overcome focus issues I had with WLFs.

So, while the OP's idea is totally relatable, I gave up and just switched to a more integrated solution. The current V-"lookalike" from HB is tempting, but then again it has a whiff of "retro cosplay" instead of "the real thing". But maybe that is just me...

The 907x system is interesting but yes, try taking a vertical photo with it and it becomes less interesting.

I think the X2DII is a great, mature system. Their lenses are 'right sized'. The focus is finally good. I use a GFX100 for scanning some things but if they had a proper macro lens for that system I'd consider switching to it. The Fuji's are bloated cameras with often over sized lenses. The X2D reminds me of my Mamiya 6MF. It's just right.

 

[4season]

Assuming the OP wants a digital Hasselblad V and not lens adapters to fit other systems, the recent 50 megapixel Hasselblad 907x package is probably what I'd go with. A survey of alternative offerings on *Bay didn't look so hot: There's Phase One and the original Hassy CFV, but these are old enough to require Compact Flash media and Firewire hookups. Which might be fine if they were selling for a few hundred bucks, but for the asking prices that I'm seeing, I wouldn't touch 'em. At the moment 4500 USD seems to be on the low end of *Bay prices for the 907x package which includes the X-system body.

BTW, what's the deal with Hasselblad X2D Mk 1 BTW? Seems relatively "cheap" at ~4000 USD for 100 megapixels. If it's only a matter of so-so autofocus, that might be tolerable.

 

[aoresteen]

So I am struggling with the V series digital back options as well.

My digital back has been a Minolta 120 film scanner.

For now I just use a Sony A7 III or a Olympus C7070 double hung (Opt/Tech Reporter 2 camera strap) with my 500C.


Which backs have the widest number of pixels? I use the 50mm Distagon a lot and want the least amount of cropping.

Thanks!

 

[Pieter12]

The 907x system is interesting but yes, try taking a vertical photo with it and it becomes less interesting.

No less than a film Hasselblad with a 546 back. And the 907x

So I am struggling with the V series digital back options as well.

My digital back has been a Minolta 120 film scanner.

For now I just use a Sony A7 III or a Olympus C7070 double hung (Opt/Tech Reporter 2 camera strap) with my 500C.


Which backs have the widest number of pixels? I use the 50mm Distagon a lot and want the least amount of cropping.

Thanks!

It's not the number of pixels, but the physical sensor size that would be important in your case. Off the top of my head, I would look for a Leaf Credo 60 or 80 which I think is about a 54x40 mm CCD sensor. Not sure if any of the larger ones were made to fit the Hasselblad V.

 

[John Wiegerink]

The more I read this thread the more I think that I really don't need a digital back for my Hasselblad. I already have a Sony A7RII 42mp and a Nikon LS 8000 scanner for 120 film. I've got just about the best of both worlds covered for now. Maybe later a cheap digi back will fall into my lap, but I'm good for now at least.

 

[Pieter12]

The more I read this thread the more I think that I really don't need a digital back for my Hasselblad. I already have a Sony A7RII 42mp and a Nikon LS 8000 scanner for 120 film. I've got just about the best of both worlds covered for now. Maybe later a cheap digi back will fall into my lap, but I'm good for now at least.

You might just find that an older digital back on a Hasselblad V is mostly a studio/tripod camera. Older backs don't have very high ISO ratings and the whole package can be heavy and cumbersome. And none will cover 6x6.

 

[eli griggs]

Yes, and I’m still looking.

I have a small inheritance from my mother’s death in July, and am very careful on what I spend it on.

In this case, I will get best value from my Hasselblad, a 2.0 life, if you will, another twenty years plus and, my spending is very limited, so the “ask” for a ten dollar Leica, remains up, being important as it is giving an extended useful life, for a camera that would otherwise would simply rot on a closet shelf or in a bag,,,,,,,,,,,, which is very wrong, in my opinion.


If I’m careful, I might be able to swing a used ‘M’ 40mm lens for the CL camera I do have, but that’ll have to wait, for now.

I might be able to do this if I get Social Security at 67 and save inteligently.

Anyway, people will regard my ask what they will, no matter what I write, and that’s their own business and I don’t mind laying bare my life and reasons for what I do.

I can also, always ignore those that irk me on a bad day, should I will.

Is the Phase One back a good value? If so which model?

Eli

 

[bags27]

i bought a used 907x 50c when the 100c came out and for a brief moment some folks were dumping their 50mps ones. So I got a good deal.

It is completely plug and play on both my Blads, the 500 c/m and 903 SWC. All the lenses work surprisingly well and the 250mm SA of course is brilliant. Yes, one loses the wideness on the SWC, but the portability and sharpness are so very satisfying, if one must shoot digital.

The only caution is that it has the same button release as a film back. Well, if a film back falls off, no biggie. But if the digital back hits the pavement...well.... Mine did and miraculously no harm. Lesson learned. Taping the button.

 

[Pieter12]

Is the Phase One back a good value? If so which model?

Hasselblad and Phase One started feuding and split around 2007, so it would be an earlier back.

 

[reddesert]

I have no direct experience with digital backs for Hasselblads. I don't think people are saying you shouldn't want one, but that you should be realistic about it. Large digital sensors are expensive, and lots of people would be all over a medium format digital sensor that didn't have serious compromises. So, the digital backs that are out there are either very expensive, or they have serious usability compromises, such as tethering or near-obsolete computer interfaces, and you need to research that very carefully before getting into one.

 

[Pieter12]

I have no direct experience with digital backs for Hasselblads. I don't think people are saying you shouldn't want one, but that you should be realistic about it. Large digital sensors are expensive, and lots of people would be all over a medium format digital sensor that didn't have serious compromises. So, the digital backs that are out there are either very expensive, or they have serious usability compromises, such as tethering or near-obsolete computer interfaces, and you need to research that very carefully before getting into one.

Don't forget the batteries!

 

[itsdoable]

Is the Phase One back a good value? If so which model?

So .. Hasselblad V - that will cost more than Hasselblad H, almost 2x for the same back.

Again, what is your $? It's a hard question to answer - but under $5K? $10K? More, depending on the features?

When I started in on digital backs (Hasselblad V), I use the <$5K, and must be able to run untethered. I started with a P30, which died early. But that taught me two things, a) I wanted a larger sensor, at least 2x FF, and b) I wanted another digital back. I ended up with a P25. It was slow and clunky, but worked. Despite what people have said about how slow and hard to see these devices are (compared to current Mirrorless), now you could view, magnify and check both focus and exposure before packing up and hiking out of the grand canyon - unlike when using film. When servicing cameras, now it took a few hours to adjust the focusing screen, where as with film, it took a few days (you can see the back-focus on a 2/110 Planar just as easy on film as on digital, it just took way longer). The main issue I had with the digital back was managing batteries on a 2 week wilderness trip. And the fact that it was smaller than 6x6. Of course you could just use film then.

In the lower cost end (for >2x FF), you have P25, P45 from Phase, CF39 from Hasselblad. I'm less familiar with Leaf, but they are similar models. When you go higher, you get P65, and IQ's up ~v3 form Phase, and CFV backs from Hasselblad. If I shot more professionally, I would get the last Phase back with the 52x40mm ccd sensor that came in V mount.

Batteries are not an issue, they all use the common easily available Canon or Sony video batteries.

CF card are still easily available, and you do not need a huge card, you cannot shoot that fast!

The common issues with the older backs are the hot mirror (IR cover glass) corroding (it develops spots), which is easily seen, and not hard to repair. Hot mirrors are prone to this, especially early ones.

 

[eli griggs]

I may be wrong by it’s sounding like I’ll be better off with an Instax back unless ' I win the big lottery tonight.

At what pixel rate do Hasselblad Digital become analog printable and what additional kit is needed?

 

[Pieter12]

I may be wrong by it’s sounding like I’ll be better off with an Instax back unless ' I win the big lottery tonight.

At what pixel rate do Hasselblad Digital become analog printable and what additional kit is needed?

Not sure what you mean by pixel rate and analog printable. At what size? Or are you going to make digital negatives? LVTs?

 

[itsdoable]

I may be wrong by it’s sounding like I’ll be better off with an Instax back unless ' I win the big lottery tonight.

At what pixel rate do Hasselblad Digital become analog printable and what additional kit is needed?

Not sure what you mean by pixel rate and analog printable. At what size? Or are you going to make digital negatives? LVTs?

Yea, I don't understand this question either.

All Hasselblad V digital backs produce printable files, that is what they were designed to do, at a pretty cost.

Hasselblad Instax backs have a high priced to quality ratio, and each shot costs >$1. I would almost say that nothing is "printable", but there is a nice "lomo" charm to the images and process which I like.

 

[drg3rd]

I just bought a 907X and CFV II 50C back (with 45p lens) off *Bay (for around $5.5K ... ouch). I plan to use it with my 500C and/or 500 C/M to swap back and forth when I am not shooting Ektachrome or Provia/Velvia. After just a couple days of testing I am very happy with the output. You can just snap the back on, meter the scene, and shoot the same as you would with film. Otherwise, live view works too, though my 500 C/M can't lock the shutter open in bulb mode (I need to send it in for repair) so I can really only use my 500 C for that. I think this will be great for landscape/cityscape photos I like to take, but anything more dynamic like wildlife, etc. I'll use my Canon R5/R7. I attached a test image (couldn't post full res file) I took today with my 500 C/M and 120mm f/4 (handheld). I'm pretty happy with the image quality. It is definitely not a fast setup, but having access to all my V lenses is a nice option.

 

[Nokton48]

I searched for ten years for the CFV16, the Olde First Hasselblad Digital Back, which Hasselblad marketed to all the mechanical "V' Users out there. Last year I finally saw one got it for $2700. Not bad IMO considering when introduced in 2007 in Japan, it was $17,000 US$. People buy this one and keep it methinks. so WHY?? Me I'm not trying to print a billboard, just a beautiful 10x10 or 12x12. and I am satisfied. YMMV. I just wanted to complete my classic "V' system.

Digital V System 30mm to 120mm by Nokton48, on Flickr

See how it integrates with the Old V Blad? NO CONNECTING CABLES

CFV16 EI 50 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Hasselblad CFV16 Digital Back 500C/M 80mm black C T* Planar with Zeiss .5 Proxar EI 50. Full Sun Handheld Exposure.

500mm Oberkochen 500ELM CFV16 EI 200 EV 14.5 by Nokton48, on Flickr


This is the first test of the 500mm F8 Oberkochen Opton Hasselblad lens. EL/M Body with Olde Hasselblad CDS Meter Prism indicated EV14.5. Set that on the lens, this is the result. Hasselblad CFV16 Digital Back set to Ei 200, camera/lens mounted on a Plaubel Peco 2 Way Head, attached to sturdy Manfrotto legs. The pretty new Magnolia tree is our yard was blowing visibly, the 500mm shutter seems to have frozen it, there was a lot of leaf movment in the breeze. It is fun to play with the new digital back and I am loving the saturated colors I'm getting. Hasselblad says it's the fat pixels, but also how much space is around each pixel. Anyways I'm loving the color right out of the camera. Shooting distance was 28 feet, the absolute minimum focus distance on the lens. So I will add extension tubes if needed.

 

[drg3rd]

I searched for ten years for the CFV16, the Olde First Hasselblad Digital Back, which Hasselblad marketed to all the mechanical "V' Users out there. Last year I finally saw one got it for $2700. Not bad IMO considering when introduced in 2007 in Japan, it was $17,000 US$. People buy this one and keep it methinks. so WHY?? Me I'm not trying to print a billboard, just a beautiful 10x10 or 12x12. and I am satisfied. YMMV. I just wanted to complete my classic "V' system.

Nice system! 50Mp is most likely overkill for most things, but I was afraid of getting something too old that might have a short life left in it. Of course there are no guarantees with newer things either.

 

[mshchem]

I just bought a 907X and CFV II 50C back (with 45p lens) off *Bay (for around $5.5K ... ouch). I plan to use it with my 500C and/or 500 C/M to swap back and forth when I am not shooting Ektachrome or Provia/Velvia. After just a couple days of testing I am very happy with the output. You can just snap the back on, meter the scene, and shoot the same as you would with film. Otherwise, live view works too, though my 500 C/M can't lock the shutter open in bulb mode (I need to send it in for repair) so I can really only use my 500 C for that. I think this will be great for landscape/cityscape photos I like to take, but anything more dynamic like wildlife, etc. I'll use my Canon R5/R7. I attached a test image (couldn't post full res file) I took today with my 500 C/M and 120mm f/4 (handheld). I'm pretty happy with the image quality. It is definitely not a fast setup, but having access to all my V lenses is a nice option.

That's gorgeous! Tremendous detail. That 120 Zeiss doesn't disappoint!

 

[eli griggs]

It looks like I’ll have to rethink getting a digital back for now as five k is much more than I’ll be able to invest into a reliable tool vs. too old Phase units.

An Instax back and the film to run it, is much more realistic and will make plenty of preview images, for much less monies.

Time for a new thread about Instax Hasselblad backs.

Cheers

 

[Nokton48]

CFV16 Hasselblad Digital Back with Tethering to Macbook Pro 2012 by Nokton48, on Flickr

I found an original (still in the original bag) Hasselblad 400/800 Firewire Cord ($50 at Dodds) good for my CFV16 Hasselblad Digital Back. With this I can tether to my new to me Macbook Pro 2012 3rd version, last one before they went to USB only. Then ordered new from the Netherlands, Input and Output Cables for the CFV16. The Hasselblad Output Cable syncs up to my red Broncolor Pulso Strobe Cord, provides connection to my extensive set of Broncolor Strobes. The Hasselblad Input Cable, on the lower right, connects to PC Socket on any camera shutter, like my Sinar Norma and also Sinar Handy Technical Cameras. . This surely does beat shooting Polaroid Tests, in order to fine tune lighting and such. Looking forward to see full screen Macbook readouts. In the Studio I use 50 and 100 ISO films, so when I get the image tuned up in digital, exposures with film are often the same or close. So film and digital integrate very smoothly and nicely. A Firewire400/800 Adapter was data mined by Apple, I bought a couple of them from Amazon. Works a charm.

 

[rulnacco]

Is the Phase One back a good value? If so which model?

When I lived in London, I used to play HLS (human light stand) for a friend of mine at fashion shows and music festivals. He used a Phase One P45 on a 553ELX, and got some amazing results from it. If I could afford one, I'd really prefer a Phase One back over a Hasselblad back simply because it's easier to switch the Phase One backs from landscape to portrait orientation, whereas the Hasselblad backs are strictly landscape--that sucks, so far as I'm concerned.

If you'd like to see what the Phase One P45 can do on a Hasslblad V series, check these two links--I helped on these, so I know for sure he used one of their backs:

London Fashion Week
Rinse/Born & Bred Music Festival

Personally, I haven't been able to afford one of those, so I use an ancient Sinarback 54M. It's probably not what you're looking for, because it's so old (2004) it has no memory card slot, no screen, and no battery--you have to shoot it tethered to an older Mac via Firewire. And it's only 22MP, but being a legendary Kodak fat pixel back, it's 22 glorious megapixels. As you can see here (be sure to view the image at full resolution):

Jeremiah
Child
Macro

That macro image, by the way, is of a coffee sack I had hanging on my studio wall--an area of approximately 1.2 x 1.6 inches. It was shot with the 120mm Makro Planar on the Auto Bellows. I may have even thrown a Nikon 5T on the front of it, can't remember.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Hasselblad shows an SWC with their current digital back. It just won't be as wide.

View attachment 406646

Hence the reason I am waiting for an affordable digital 6x6 back.

 

[Pieter12]

Hence the reason I am waiting for an affordable digital 6x6 back.

There has been a need and demand for a 6x6 digital back for a long time now. I wouldn't hold my breath. And the affordable part will take even longer, if ever.