You are free to solve with masking what share you want, and sparing the amount you want for genuine manual crafting. My personal approach is solving the curve tonal manipulation with masking and later elaborating the print manually in what is worth.
Not at all, it's a kids game, see this:
From an scan you use a grading map in Photoshop to assign a color to each gray level, you make the negative+diffuser+color mask and that's all, without needing a single brush stroke in Ps . With a bit of experience you nail the mask easily.
Make coarse contact copies of the negative + mask until you get the right balance, then you align well the mask and yo enlarge.
By manipulating the grading map manipulate effective sensitometric tonal curve of the paper, just like when you bend the curves in Ps in digital image edition, you give what extension you want to the toe/shoulder, beyond paper grade.
Me, I see it like a way to have the right paper for the scene or for the negative, I don't want that masking to be intrusive in my manual printing, just I solve the toe/shoulder extensions/gradient in that way.
Citing Alan Ross: "keep at it so long as it serves your purpose! Beyond that, everything is like cooking:
personal preference! The options are endless and none are right or wrong!

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Way Beyong Monochrome also speaks a bit about that, and Ross pdfs give straight practial instructions. Just the grading map concept is a natural way to continously distribute grade across densities. This doesn't solve totally the print, but it easily solves toe/shoulder compressions, you simply get the paper you want for the job.
Imagine you project a 5x7" negative on the wall, you are projecting an insane amount of IQ, if you also nail the tonality... this rocks...