What's your latest new old camera ? (Part 2)

[benjiboy]

I read about the Canon AE Power Winder FN and that you need it for the Canon locked-out the shutter-priority mode unless you bought either this Canon AE Power Winder FN or the Canon AE Motor Drive FN.

So I will look for a motor winder or motor drive (I don't mind the weight). The F-1 even looks cool with the winder.

[EDIT: I saw one on Ebay but the price was Euro 129 - too much for my taste. I'm thinking about 50-75 max]

Congratulations Toad Man I've been using the New F1 for 30+ years it's in my opinion the best manual focus S.L.R. I have ever used, but I warn you the Motor Drive FN takes twelve AA batteries and weighs a ton, it's so heavy I avoid using mine as much as I can, and I can't use it with a neck strap it's too heavy I have to use a use a wrist strap.
Canon F1 accessories are expensive but they are very high quality and were very expensive when they were new ( the F1-N AE in around 1982 with the 1.4 lens in the U.K cost over £1,000 ) I know because I worked at a professional photographic dealers in those days and used to sell them but couldn't afford to buy one.
I recommend if you must have powerwind(I could easily live without one) you buy the AE power winder FN because it only takes four AA batteries, is much lighter than the Motor Drive FN and is usually much cheaper, the only real advantage of the Motor Drive FN is it's slightly faster top speed, and it has power rewind.

 

[TheToadMen]

I know it's confusing Frank but the original F1 had a all mechanical shutter, the next updated version was the F1n also all mechanical but had a wider I.S.O range and a larger wind on lever stand off.
Toad Man has bought a F1-N that's a completely different animal which has an electromechanical shutter and was the final version of the F1 that also has the AE metering prism finder.

I was just wondering: how can one recognize if it's the F1, the F1n or the F1N?

Congratulations Toad Man I've been using the New F1 for 30+ years it's in my opinion the best manual focus S.L.R. I have ever used, but I warn you the Motor Drive FN takes twelve AA batteries and weighs a ton, it's so heavy I avoid using mine as much as I can, and I can't use it with a neck strap it's too heavy I have to use a use a wrist strap.
Canon F1 accessories are expensive but they are very high quality and were very expensive when they were new ( the F1-N AE in around 1982 with the 1.4 lens in the U.K cost over £1,000 ) I know because I worked at a professional photographic dealers in those days and used to sell them but couldn't afford to buy one.
I recommend if you must have powerwind(I could easily live without one) you buy the AE power winder FN because it only takes four AA batteries, is much lighter than the Motor Drive FN and is usually much cheaper, the only real advantage of the Motor Drive FN is it's slightly faster top speed, and it has power rewind.

Thanks, the AE power winder FN it will be - if I can find an affordable one.
But for now I'm first gonna shoot some rolls manually.
(hope it arrives soon)

EDIT: And thank you, benjiboy, for a nice read about the New F-1:
http://satnam.ca/cameras/Canonf1worldbook1.pdf

 

[anfenglin]

Picked up a Yashica Electro 35 CC, loved loved loved the Electro 35's (classic, with the 45mm lens) pictures, but the damn thing went and died on me.
I disassembled it and replaced the pad of death but to no avail. I put it together hastily and threw it in the bay where it came from.
The CC is supposed to be a great camera, also, it is not as awfully big as the Electro. AND it takes normal batteries and I don't have to fiddle with alumiminium foil.
The RF is spot on, the lens is clean, all it needs is a finder clean and we're good to go. I like it already.
Are there any know problems with the CCs?

 

[Theo Sulphate]

A very handsome camera indeed. A camera such as this I always imagine it in the hands of a stately gentleman of the leisure class.

A photo of me playing with the wife:

http://c8.alamy.com/comp/EMYYB0/act...-actress-francoise-dorleac-shortly-EMYYB0.jpg

 

[benjiboy]

I was just wondering: how can one recognize if it's the F1, the F1n or the F1N?



Thanks, the AE power winder FN it will be - if I can find an affordable one.
But for now I'm first gonna shoot some rolls manually.
(hope it arrives soon)

EDIT: And thank you, benjiboy, for a nice read about the New F-1:
http://satnam.ca/cameras/Canonf1worldbook1.pdf

It's a pleasure Bert, the fist two versions of the F1 painted are glossy piano black the New F1 is a stealthy matte black and even cooler, and is an easy way to recognise them.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

Link for F-1, F-1n, and F-1N ("New F-1"):

http://camerapedia.wikia.com/wiki/Canon_F-1

Easiest way for me to recognize F-1N is the step in the top plate near the "F".

 

[PatTrent]

Canon AE-1 with 50mm f/1.8 lens.

 

[ciniframe]

Well, nothing too exciting but was just handed a Ansco Shur Shot. The shutter still works and looks about right so I popped off the front, cleaned the finders and will waste a roll of 120 sometime, but probably not soon. Whats nice is that it takes 120, no respooling needed.

 

[RichardJack]

A Nikkormat FT3 (chrome) w/ 50mm f2 AI Nikkor. In excellent condition. I like the images this lens produces better than my 50mm f1.8 AF. The FT3 is great because it uses a battery I can get almost anywhere and it has a very bright split image focusing screen. This camera was only produced in 1977 but sold until about 1979 being replaced my the Nikon FM. It meters with AI lenses meaning I can use lenses like my 180mm f2.8 AF-n EDIF with it.
Also a Soligor 90-230mm f4.5 T4 mount in Canon. IMO this is one of the worst zooms made, it was produced the early 1970's as a cost alternative to the very expensive Nikon and Canon zooms. I was a salesman in a camera store back then and remember hating selling these to customers. Back then it was an impressive looking lens and 90-230mm in one lens was hot stuff. I tested one then and found the results to be poor, but good enough for the 3.5x5" prints that people were making (4x6" didn't exist yet). I bought this one for my shelf, a paperweight memory. If anyone has a Nikon T4 mount that they want to sell let me know, I'd love to try this on my DSLR.

 

[elcabezagrande]

4x4 SLR


Koma (Kowa) Komaflex-S by Mike Novak, on Flickr

 

[TheToadMen]

4x4 SLR
Koma (Kowa) Komaflex-S by Mike Novak, on Flickr

It's a beauty. I love TLR cameras and this type of models for their looks as well.

 

[elcabezagrande]

It's a beauty. I love TLR cameras and this type of models for their looks as well.

It is so freaking cute.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

Interesting link here as to why it's a "Komaflex" and not a "Kowaflex":

http://camerapedia.wikia.com/wiki/Komaflex-S

 

[elcabezagrande]

Picked up a Yashica Electro 35 CC, loved loved loved the Electro 35's (classic, with the 45mm lens) pictures, but the damn thing went and died on me.
I disassembled it and replaced the pad of death but to no avail. I put it together hastily and threw it in the bay where it came from.
The CC is supposed to be a great camera, also, it is not as awfully big as the Electro. AND it takes normal batteries and I don't have to fiddle with alumiminium foil.
The RF is spot on, the lens is clean, all it needs is a finder clean and we're good to go. I like it already.
Are there any know problems with the CCs?

The main issue with the CC is the limited shutter speed range, and the odd-shaped aperture...or combined aperture and shutter. It is actually less likely to suffer from a sticky shutter than a traditional leaf shutter, and it had no POD. Otherwise, the same potential problems as any other battery-dependent vintage camera. My personal favorite of the Electro 35 line is the GX, with a 40mm lens, and a size that falls between the original G cameras and the CC.

 

[elcabezagrande]

Interesting link here as to why it's a "Komaflex" and not a "Kowaflex":

http://camerapedia.wikia.com/wiki/Komaflex-S

That is similar to the reason that I am a Novak, and not a Nowak.

 

[AgX]

With the difference that errors at tradename registrating can be corrected. Thus it is a rumour to me.

Anyway, better than "Comaflex"...

 

[John_Nikon_F]

Was looking for a MB-20 for my F4s to turn it into the regular model. Found one. For $67.50 shipped. Only thing, is that it comes with another F4 body. With another K screen. This new camera is about 3900 bodies older than the other one. I'm probably going to sell it with the MB-21. So, if anyone's looking for a somewhat cheap late model user F4s, PM me. Should have it in my hands next Thursday.

-J

 

[Theo Sulphate]

Very smooth in operation and fits my hands perfectly:








I especially like the shiftable program mode, which I believe was introduced in the R5.

 

[AgX]

Its design reminds me of an Exakta or Exa.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

Its design reminds me of an Exakta or Exa.

Indeed:

 

[elcabezagrande]

Voigtlander Vitessa A, type 3 by Mike Novak, on Flickr

 

[Theo Sulphate]

...Voigtländer Vitessa...

Elegance. You has it.

 

[Alan Johnson]

A 6x9 Ensign Selfix 820 with 105 mm f3.8 Ross Xpres. This is not the autorange model, which sells for around £2000 these days, nor the 820 Special.
A good discussion of it in this thread:
http://photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00cV9j
All I can add, in relation to the quality of the Ross lens, is that Geoffrey Crawley tested one when working for Amateur Photographer magazine, but I cannot recall if it was the 105mm f3.8 or a lens for the 645 camera they also made.
I recall that the resolution figures were close to typical 35mm camera prime lenses from the 80's.
I don't have a 6x9 enlarger so would have to get really large C41 lab prints as they output at 300 lines/inch or less.

 

[R.Gould]

I have a couple of these cameras, great results with the ross lens, indeed, I have other Ensign's and a Microcord with the xpress lens and they are ver good lenses, With the 820 you should have built in hinged plates in the film plane to allow shooting as 66, which is what I do as I also do not have a 69 enlarger

 

[bryans_tx]

very neat, Alan.