What's your latest new old camera ? (Part 2)

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cuthbert

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I also picked up a Spottie II recently. Camera needs to be refoamed and recalibrated to 1.5 volts before I start using it.



Now thinking about adding a black FTbn and black SR-T102 to have the early-mid 1970's consumer-level cameras of the "Big 4".

-J

As already stated severeal times, the lightmeter of the Spotmatic doesn't need recalibration to work with 1.5 volts batteries.

http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/...sahi-spotmatic-sp-battery-recommendation.html

Save the money for another lens!
 

flavio81

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I have to do this with one Canon camera that takes these batteries -- the EF. All the others that take the old mercury battery, at least that I know of, pick up their + voltage from the compartment cap.

As others have stated, the Alkalines have a discharge curve that makes them unacceptable for meters without a bridge circuit. (...)

Cooltouch,

The Canon EF has an internal voltage regulator and thus will work perfectly with alkaline PX625A batteries. So don't worry. (I owned one and can certify this is true).

The FTb is a great old workhorse, but half the fun of getting to use one is its meter. It has match-needle metering, a method I've always preferred. Plus its metering pattern is what you'd describe nowadays as partial.

Yes, that's a good metering pattern. But for me the other plus of the FTb is that the mechanism is really smooth, in particular the mirror mechanism, smoother than most Nikons of the era (the shutter is another matter; and the Nikon F probably has one of the smoothest shutters ever.)
I longed for an FTb, until an old F-1 crossed my path. But the FTb is very close to being an F-1.
 
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flavio81

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Still discussing about batteries? You guys realise most of our cameras use bridge circuits that are unaffected by voltage? For instance, my Praktica MTL50 does take at PX28, but when it arrived I didn't have the battery, so I used a stack of LR44s to test it. Little particular: I needed to fit FIVE batteries instead of four!
However the reading of the lightmeter was perfect and I could use the camera without problems.

Cuthbert,

I'm sorry but i'll have to disagree with you, despite mostly agreeing on everything.

Not all cameras have such "compensated" circuits. The question I addressed was related to the Nikkormat, and the Nikkormat uses a very very similar circuit to the one on the Photomics for the Nikon F. And such circuit is very, very sensitive to battery voltage (been there, have tried recalibrating that circuit, had to adapt zinc-air batteries at the end).

As for your Praktica MTL50, that's a 1985 camera, not fair!! By that time practically all cameras had regulator circuits inside. Also, it takes a PX28 battery, and I dare to say that all cameras that use the PX28 have a voltage regulator circuit, since most of them (i.e. Canon A-series, Pentax 67, Mamiya M645) are known to work fine with alkalines; in some cases the manual itself tells you to use an "alkaline or silver-oxide battery".

BTW, to assemble an ersatz PX28 battery, just buy an old PX28 and use the front and rear metal "caps" to make the four LR44 cells achieve the same height as the original. Wrap in some masking tape, and you're good to go. This is done frequently in my city, where a PX28 battery is more expensive than buying four LR44s.

And it allows you to assemble a silver-oxide PX28 if you want! (by using SR44s). Longer life.
 
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Kyle M.

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Bought a nearly mint Mamiya 645 with waist-level finder and the 80 2.8 for a very good price this morning. Got it from a seller on eBay who I've done quite a bit of business with, it should be here in time to go with me to Gettysburg for vacation next week.
 

cuthbert

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Cuthbert,

I'm sorry but i'll have to disagree with you, despite mostly agreeing on everything.

Not all cameras have such "compensated" circuits. The question I addressed was related to the Nikkormat, and the Nikkormat uses a very very similar circuit to the one on the Photomics for the Nikon F. And such circuit is very, very sensitive to battery voltage (been there, have tried recalibrating that circuit, had to adapt zinc-air batteries at the end).

Sorry I miswrote: not all the cameras but a good number of them have a similar circuit, for my new FT3 it came with a battery but I don't know the voltage, I assume I'll find it out soon, for the Spotties and our Canon I'm pretty sure we can use alkalines without problem.

However, Miss Bernardine M Fendrick sent me a nice box from the past, October 1976 I assume.



sn0vx0.jpg



21mhfy8.jpg



2m5m993.jpg


s1ia2h.jpg


I'm pretty happy.:whistling:
 

flavio81

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Sorry I miswrote: not all the cameras but a good number of them have a similar circuit, for my new FT3 it came with a battery but I don't know the voltage, I assume I'll find it out soon, for the Spotties and our Canon I'm pretty sure we can use alkalines without problem.

However, Miss Bernardine M Fendrick sent me a nice box from the past, October 1976 I assume.

The Nikkormat FT3 uses a silver-oxide SR44 battery, just as the Nikkormat FT2- Those batteries are readily available, and supply a constant 1.55V. Putting an alkaline (LR44) cell on it, due to the nominal 1.5V voltage, will apparently give correct readings, but this is not sustainable over a long time nor at all conditions.

Regarding the pentax: Beautiful camera. I can't understand how Pentax changed its line from beautiful (Spotmatic) to ugly (K-line).
 

kxjiru

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With all the talk of FT3's I have to show mine! I probably won't keep it because of the weight but I love shutter rings on the lens mount (which explains my love affair with OM) ImageUploadedByTapatalk1438316999.574957.jpg

Pretty sure I'm going to buy a Konica T4 just to try out the 100mm.
 

leicarfcam

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Not all cameras have such "compensated" circuits. The question I addressed was related to the Nikkormat, and the Nikkormat uses a very very similar circuit to the one on the Photomics for the Nikon F. And such circuit is very, very sensitive to battery voltage (been there, have tried recalibrating that circuit, had to adapt zinc-air batteries at the end).

I have 2 Nikon F's with the Photomic Ftn heads. My fix which works very well even with slide film was to solder 2ea. 1N5711 schotty diodes inline then use 2ea. silver oxide 357 cells. Meter readings at various light conditions result in right-on readings..

I shoot a lot of slide film and have never had off readings..

Don't have to worry about my F2 since it already uses silver oxide cells..
 

cuthbert

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The Nikkormat FT3 uses a silver-oxide SR44 battery, just as the Nikkormat FT2- Those batteries are readily available, and supply a constant 1.55V. Putting an alkaline (LR44) cell on it, due to the nominal 1.5V voltage, will apparently give correct readings, but this is not sustainable over a long time nor at all conditions.

Regarding the pentax: Beautiful camera. I can't understand how Pentax changed its line from beautiful (Spotmatic) to ugly (K-line).

I'll check out what's inside my new old FT3, regarding the Spottie, I'm a great fan, now I have the three main "consumer's grade" (even if IMO they are built with pro quality) SLRs from the 70s: the SPF, the Ftbn and the FT3, and to be honest in terms of fit, finish and how it handles nothing is like a Spottie. The Nikkormat feels rough and brutal in comparison, the Ftbn is better, quieter but much bigger than the SPF, which has that beautiful (to me) shutter sound, I would dare to say it has some Leica quality.:whistling:

I also agree that the K1000 and KM are uglier and bigger than the SP and some of the elegance of the old design was lost, mainly because they change mounting and the K bayonet is much larger than the M42 in terms of diameter (according to Keppler this was done in order to allow the design of the K50 mm f1.2 that has a very large rear element), you can clearly feel the difference when you're holding both cameras in your hands. Plus the shutter is rougher, the winding is not as smooth as with the SPF's long and thin lever etc...
 

flavio81

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I'll check out what's inside my new old FT3, regarding the Spottie, I'm a great fan, now I have the three main "consumer's grade" (even if IMO they are built with pro quality) SLRs from the 70s: the SPF, the Ftbn and the FT3, and to be honest in terms of fit, finish and how it handles nothing is like a Spottie. The Nikkormat feels rough and brutal in comparison, the Ftbn is better, quieter but much bigger than the SPF, which has that beautiful (to me) shutter sound, I would dare to say it has some Leica quality.:whistling:

I agree with your comparison of the Nikkormat versus FTb. I'm taking note for if i find a black spotmatic that winks my eye.

If you like great build quality take also a look at the Minolta SRT-101 and relatives, last time I handled one i liked the finish.
 

cuthbert

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I agree with your comparison of the Nikkormat versus FTb. I'm taking note for if i find a black spotmatic that winks my eye.

If you like great build quality take also a look at the Minolta SRT-101 and relatives, last time I handled one i liked the finish.

Black Spottie? Possibly a F that supports open metering? Perhaps with the latest general Tak 50 mm f1.4 with the 8 blades diaphragm? Ideally with Pentax filters and hood?

Yeah, that would be a sweet package, and would look like this:

20ssy9i.jpg


:wink:
 

Jon Buffington

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Just picked up a beautiful one owner Leica IIIc with 50 summitar (lens is beautiful, no cleaning marks, haze or fungus) in original red velvet leica box with manuals, leather case and strap. Based on the serial # it is from 1952. The owner was in Europe post WWII with the Military where he was stationed and picked it up in Vienna. After he passed, his son in law inherited it and sold it to me in from his antique store. I think I will go back as he has several pictures of his father in law (the leica owner) with the camera in hand that he was selling. Looks to be very lightly used. Slower speeds seem to be off and the shutter a bit sticky on the slower speeds. Will be sending it off for a CLA.
 

BradleyK

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Just given a tubful of camera stuff by a buddy who regularly hunts antique stores, pawn shops, estate and garage sales for furniture, artwork and all sorts of other stuff. Among the collection gifted is a Nikon F80 w/winder (no lens), a Pentax MV with a 50mm F2 SMC and case, a 1998 digital Olympus (a 1.3MP body!) with a vario-focal lens and a collection of memory cards (10 or so) and its charger (?) and instruction manual, a Nikon SB22 Speedlight, a dinky tripod, and a rather long cable release. Will sit on the stuff for a bit; my inclination, however, is to probably donate the collection (sans Speedlight) to APUG for the cost of postage to parties interested in various pieces (I don't need any more Nikon bodies; I have no use/need for another camera system; and, really, what does one do with an antique digital body?).
 

4season

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This Kiev 4A + Jupiter 8M arrived yesterday. I thought it was in good shape overall but flea-market grimy, top plate seemed to be sitting a bit askew, and the leatherette was peeling pretty badly. And so, a bit of disassembly, cleaning, de-gunking and re-adjustment later, I had this:

4season-albums-camera-collection-picture113783-r001293.jpg


4season-albums-camera-collection-picture113784-p8010405.jpg


The seller included some pre-cut light trap material too--sweet! Got it installed and now I'm ready to load up and go picture-taking.
 

TheToadMen

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This Kiev 4A + Jupiter 8M arrived yesterday. I thought it was in good shape overall but flea-market grimy, top plate seemed to be sitting a bit askew, and the leatherette was peeling pretty badly. And so, a bit of disassembly, cleaning, de-gunking and re-adjustment later, I had this:

The seller included some pre-cut light trap material too--sweet! Got it installed and now I'm ready to load up and go picture-taking.

Nice looking camera. Have fun shooting!
 

BradS

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Picked up a nice Nikkormat FT-N at a local charity thrift store. Was there dropping off some of the excess household stuff and saw this. Bought it on impuse. Probably paid too much.

Came with the 50mm f/1.4 Nikkor-S and an aftermarket 135mm f/2.8. Meter works and seems fairly accurate...I'm running the first roll through it now.

20222592852_3649fd86f3_b.jpg
 

frank

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Oh! Oh! I can play! Just bought a very cherry F2 with 50f1.4, for $200cdn on local Kijiji.

62939f2e8f304ba050c7766321cfa9ce.jpg
 
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Les Berkley

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Olympus OM-2n with winder 2. Seems to have a weird focusing screen, but lovely to use.
 

Fixcinater

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Now I see why people like the Pen F series.

$6 for the body from a thrift.
$3 for the factory Nikon to Pen adapter, new in box until I mounted the 105/2.5 on it, same thrift.

Already had the lens.
 

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4season

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My first camera was my grandfather's hand-me-down Spotmatic with 55/1.8 Super-Takumar! I loved that thing, and I think the stopped-down metering was actually a very good thing for me as a newbie, because right from the start I got a sense of how aperture and depth of field were related. Unfortunately something was wrong with that camera's shutter (banding) and repeated visits to the shop didn't fix it. Eventually they did something which caused the mirror to crack, and that was that.
 

4season

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Just picked up a beautiful one owner Leica IIIc with 50 summitar [stuff deleted] Will be sending it off for a CLA.

Any plans to have the shutter curtains replaced while you're at it? I had it done on a couple of 3Fs and paid a hair under $300 for that plus CLA.
 

cuthbert

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My first camera was my grandfather's hand-me-down Spotmatic with 55/1.8 Super-Takumar! I loved that thing, and I think the stopped-down metering was actually a very good thing for me as a newbie, because right from the start I got a sense of how aperture and depth of field were related. Unfortunately something was wrong with that camera's shutter (banding) and repeated visits to the shop didn't fix it. Eventually they did something which caused the mirror to crack, and that was that.

Everybody loves a nice Spottie, eh?:wink:
 

Jon Buffington

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Any plans to have the shutter curtains replaced while you're at it? I had it done on a couple of 3Fs and paid a hair under $300 for that plus CLA.

If need be. Probably needs a rangefinder beam splitter as well. Sent it off today to Youxin Ye. Turns out, it is not a IIIc but a IIIf based on serial #'s. The box has a IIIc manual in it so I just assumed. Ran a roll in it and the shutter is sticky below 1/100 so definitely needs a lube job. Probably hasn't been used in 20-30's years.
 
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