What's your latest new old camera ? (Part 2)

markjwyatt · Dec 9, 2020

Ian Grant said:
I think the lens is slightly newer than the camera body, by a couple of years, The Biotar is a sort after lens there's one on bay $930 at the moment pre-set Exacta mount unlike yours, it's uncoated as well with a pre-WWII serial number. I've noticed that lately more 58mm Biotars have been listed at reasonable BIN prices.

The names and markings changed, the Varex trade name was already registered in the US so US imports were VX, then around the time your lens was made informal ties between CZJ and the newer Carl Zeiss Oberkochen had just been broken, they'd hoped to reunite, My own Biotar (Praktina mount) is only a bit older (months) still has the red T coated symbol and is marked Carl Zeiss Jena. Yours is C.Z. Jena but quickly they were marked Aus Jena for the US market. I have an Exacta WLF which came from the US and says USSR Occupied.

Some of the best 35mm negatives I've printed were shot with an Exacta VX1000 and CZJ lenses 50mm Pancolar, 135mm Sonnar and 35mm Flektagon. I found the Meyer 29mm Lydith an excellent lens as well, I used one with a Prakticamat many years ago and have one in my Exacta Varex IIb/Exa x2 kit.

I'm torn as I'm after the 75mm f1.5 Biotar, what fit M42, Exacta, or Praktina, gut instinct is Praktina

Ian

I do like the Biotar. It has some really nice "bokeh", plus it renders very nicely. It is not contrasty, but I can live with that. It may help to get a CLA (it is a bit stiff focusing, and there is some haze in the outer diameter of the front element). Here is an example of bokeh:

weed by Mark Wyatt, on Flickr

The camera also came with a Meyer-Optik Gorlitz 50mm f2.8 Domiplan, an inexpensive Coolke triplet variation. That lens is like new, and has nice contrast and is sharp at small apertures. At larger apertures it gives a late 19th/early-20th century rendering:

Bare Tree by Mark Wyatt, on Flickr

My dream lens to add (at the moment- there are so many available for the Exakta) is the Rodenstock 30mm Eurygon. The 35mm Flektagon would be just fine also (and more reasonable cost), as I am sure the 29, Lydith. The 75mm Biotar is also a widely sought after (thus pricey) lens.

I know in the US, they just called this camera the VX (and this one is a US import), but it is a Varex, so I just call it both, stating "VX" to indicate it is an imported Varex. The Ihagee story is somewhat under rated (compared to say Zeiss Ikon). I have an Ihagee 6x9 folder from around 1938 also (I think I posted further up), so my Ihagee collection grows. Everyone that loves their Nikons and other great modern Japanese SLRs should at minimum appreciate the contribution of Ihagee. The VX is a little clunky, but I enjoy the purposeful mechanics of using it (well at least so far). This is not a toy camera.

wyofilm · Dec 9, 2020

Used Nikon F6 from Japan Camera Hunter, also a 70-200 f/2.8 vrII lens (Robert's camera). Had been on the fence for a couple of years regarding the F6 and now with it discontinued the timing seemed right. We'll give this system a test this Friday when my son and I will video my daughter's winter figure skating show. At the same time I will use it take some stills in questionable lighting - a real test!

BAC1967 · Dec 14, 2020

Zeiss Ikon ICA TRONA 210/7 9x12 cm Folding Plate Camera. Carl Zeiss Tessar 135mm f/4.5 lens set in a Compur shutter. Based on the serial number on the lens the camera was made in 1926. It's a bit rough looking but the lens and shutter are in excellent condition. The viewfinder frame is missing but I probably wouldn't use that anyhow. I patched a few holes in the bellows and cleaned it up a bit. Waiting for some Fomapan 100 in 9x12, a few more plate holders and some film inserts so I can start using it. For a camera that's almost 4X5 size it's a lot smaller and lighter than my Crown Graphic, it will be good to take when I travel.

Zeiss Ikon ICA Trona 210/7 by Bryan Chernick, on Flickr

George Mann · Dec 22, 2020

I just bought a Nikkormat EL. It has a 6 month warranty, and should be here by the end of the month

jwd722 · Dec 23, 2020

Bronica EC to replace my recently deceased S2.
Nearly mint and perfect working condition.
Time of order from Japan to delivery to MI was 4 days! Still waiting for a delivery from IL (390 miles) for almost a month...USPS!!!

RLangham · Dec 23, 2020

Nikon F 2S... Originally I was going to set it up as an SB because my SB's body caps at 1/2000th and doesn't have X sync, but I actually don't hate the the DP-2 head. I like that the windows to illuminate the exposure info are on the front as well as the top, so they're passively illuminated even if I'm shooting out a window from a darker room or from my car. I also like that someone stripped the paint from the "Nikon" badge so it's all black. It looks sharp.

scyg · Dec 30, 2020

Rolleiflex Automat K4A from the *bay. Lovely Tessar. $230 including shipping. Already battle-tested.

RLangham · Dec 30, 2020

scyg said:
Rolleiflex Automat K4A from the *bay. Lovely Tessar. $230 including shipping. Already battle-tested.

Not bad. I also just picked up a TLR, though of much lower spec: Yashica-D. I think it’s also a Tessar, and it’s also one of the first in its series with thumb wheels. Isn’t the Automat the first Rollei that introduced them?

scyg · Dec 31, 2020

RLangham said:
Not bad. I also just picked up a TLR, though of much lower spec: Yashica-D. I think it’s also a Tessar, and it’s also one of the first in its series with thumb wheels. Isn’t the Automat the first Rollei that introduced them?

The common opinion is that the early Yashica Ds had three-element Yashikor lenses and later ones tessar-type Yashinons. However, my personal exploration <https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/yashica-tlr-lens-change.180067/> seems to point to even the Yashikors on the Ds being actually four-element Tessar types. I've been using the D for a while (actually didn't think I would be buying a Rollie, but the price got me). I think the German Tessar is better, and the camera definitely has a better "feel" to it. Also, the D film chamber tends to have a very poor finish, and mine required flocking and a lens hood to produce decent contrast and flare resistance.
That's one camera, so not necessarily applicable to all Yashica Ds, but something to look into. "Upgrading" to something more fancy doesn't necessarily get you a whole lot of bang for your buck.

Europan · Dec 31, 2020

An Agfa Movex Reflex to become acquainted with

RLangham · Dec 31, 2020

scyg said:
The common opinion is that the early Yashica Ds had three-element Yashikor lenses and later ones tessar-type Yashinons. However, my personal exploration <https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/yashica-tlr-lens-change.180067/> seems to point to even the Yashikors on the Ds being actually four-element Tessar types. I've been using the D for a while (actually didn't think I would be buying a Rollie, but the price got me). I think the German Tessar is better, and the camera definitely has a better "feel" to it. Also, the D film chamber tends to have a very poor finish, and mine required flocking and a lens hood to produce decent contrast and flare resistance.
That's one camera, so not necessarily applicable to all Yashica Ds, but something to look into. "Upgrading" to something more fancy doesn't necessarily get you a whole lot of bang for your buck.

I have the second Yashinon version with the faster viewing lens— 2.8 on the top, 3.5 on the bottom. It’s more sought after than the Yashikor or the dual 3.5 Yashinon, but aside from making the finder a little brighter I don’t see the point, as you don’t get to see the exact DoF of the taking lens when it’s wide open. I’d almost rather it be the other way around!

Ugh... hoods for bay I can be expensive, can’t they? And I admit I’ve never heard of flocking.

Donald Qualls · Dec 31, 2020

Didn't come here promptly when it arrived, but my latest "new old camera" is a Kodak Pocket Instamatic 60 -- auto exposure (up to several seconds, at least) with tripod and cable release sockets, ISO 100 only (no film speed sensor, though ND over the meter window can let you shoot slower film, like microfilm stock). Top quality lens, coupled rangefinder -- just finished the first test roll on Monday, it's sitting in the darkroom waiting to be processed. Probably tomorrow. Then I'll see whether I can tolerate using my old, homemade 16mm scanning adapter, or if I feel the need to order a 3D printed one (which should also work for Minolta 16 and Kiev cameras in Minolta format) off eBay. And I'll need to look through my stuff to try to find my Enlahead, or get a 110 film holder for my D2.

markjwyatt · Dec 31, 2020

Donald Qualls said:
Didn't come here promptly when it arrived, but my latest "new old camera" is a Kodak Pocket Instamatic 60 -- auto exposure (up to several seconds, at least) with tripod and cable release sockets, ISO 100 only (no film speed sensor, though ND over the meter window can let you shoot slower film, like microfilm stock). Top quality lens, coupled rangefinder -- just finished the first test roll on Monday, it's sitting in the darkroom waiting to be processed. Probably tomorrow. Then I'll see whether I can tolerate using my old, homemade 16mm scanning adapter, or if I feel the need to order a 3D printed one (which should also work for Minolta 16 and Kiev cameras in Minolta format) off eBay. And I'll need to look through my stuff to try to find my Enlahead, or get a 110 film holder for my D2.

Cool. What did you do for a battery? I have one, and use it as a handheld rangefinder for my 6x9 folder.

eli griggs · Dec 31, 2020

I do no remember if I posted alread on this one, but, I suppose it is the Nikon F FTn I bought off another member here, and while it needs some cleaning, its in user condition, but I want to find another viewfinder metered or no, working meter or no, to use with it while I sort out the finder that came with this camera.

Intact, as it came, the front docking ports would no engage and so the viewfinder was no light tight and held down in the front of the camera. I've partly disassembled the front of the meter, and now, without the front plate and gears engaged, a firm push will, finally catch hold, with an affirmative 'ckick'.

Right now I'm expecting a Hasselblad 500 C, basket case, but all there, camera that a member basically donated to me, for a small payment, answering my ask for non-function Hasselblad bodies and lenses to learn on and practice repairing, CLA, etc, on.

Here's hoping all our members are well, and Godspeed to all on this New Years eve or day, where ever you may be.

Donald Qualls · Dec 31, 2020

markjwyatt said:
Cool. What did you do for a battery? I have one, and use it as a handheld rangefinder for my 6x9 folder.

There was a thread on these in the Lo-Fi Cameras forum recently, or else on the Submini-L mailing list, but short version, I stacked 3 S76 (silver oxide button cells), taped them tightly together, used the negative "button" on one end of the stack as the "side" contact, and wrapped a piece of aluminum tape onto the flat end of the stack to make contact where the "end" contact on the K battery would go. The stack is just the right height to fit in the compartment (comes out with a bit of a bump against the palm -- careful you don't break the door hinge). The camera has a regulator, works on about 2.7 to 4.7 volts; the 4.65V from fresh silver oxide cells will run it for a long time. Only draws power when the shutter is half-pressed.

The original K batteries had A76 cells, but the S76 should last almost twice as long.

BTW, there's recently been discussion on Submini-L, someone has started work on 3D printing K battery replacement shells for smaller button cells (so they can straight-stack instead of being angled like the originals) or for 3V 1/3N lithium cells. The stacked cell method works well enough, however, that I'm no longer worried about looking for a replacement shell.

BTW, you can buy fresh dated film from Lomography resellers, ISO 100 B&W "Orca" and ISO 200 color negative "Tiger". There was a slide offering, too, but I didn't see it when I shopped. I bought a used Yankee Clipper tank (the slightly older version with clear upper reel plate), which adjusts for 110/16mm, 126/35mm 127, or 120. Can't invert, but it supports a swizzle stick thermometer (which didn't come with mine, so I'll be swirling if the reel won't fit over a Paterson core). Most tanks made in the 1970s will take 110, too, if you have an old FR or whatever.

George Mann · Dec 31, 2020

I have a Nikon F2 Photomic on it's way from a fellow member.

markjwyatt · Dec 31, 2020

Donald Qualls said:
There was a thread on these in the Lo-Fi Cameras forum recently, or else on the Submini-L mailing list, but short version, I stacked 3 S76 (silver oxide button cells), taped them tightly together, used the negative "button" on one end of the stack as the "side" contact, and wrapped a piece of aluminum tape onto the flat end of the stack to make contact where the "end" contact on the K battery would go. The stack is just the right height to fit in the compartment (comes out with a bit of a bump against the palm -- careful you don't break the door hinge). The camera has a regulator, works on about 2.7 to 4.7 volts; the 4.65V from fresh silver oxide cells will run it for a long time. Only draws power when the shutter is half-pressed.

The original K batteries had A76 cells, but the S76 should last almost twice as long.

BTW, there's recently been discussion on Submini-L, someone has started work on 3D printing K battery replacement shells for smaller button cells (so they can straight-stack instead of being angled like the originals) or for 3V 1/3N lithium cells. The stacked cell method works well enough, however, that I'm no longer worried about looking for a replacement shell.

BTW, you can buy fresh dated film from Lomography resellers, ISO 100 B&W "Orca" and ISO 200 color negative "Tiger". There was a slide offering, too, but I didn't see it when I shopped. I bought a used Yankee Clipper tank (the slightly older version with clear upper reel plate), which adjusts for 110/16mm, 126/35mm 127, or 120. Can't invert, but it supports a swizzle stick thermometer (which didn't come with mine, so I'll be swirling if the reel won't fit over a Paterson core). Most tanks made in the 1970s will take 110, too, if you have an old FR or whatever.

Thanks! Will probably take a look at that thread. Happy New Year!

SchwinnParamount · Dec 31, 2020

Leica M6. I avoided rangefinder until a friend gave me a Contax IIa about 10 years ago. Since that time, I've purchased several Nikon bodies and the Canon F1-n. A second dabblement in rangefinder was the Voightlander Bessa R2c (for sharing Contax lenses with the IIa). Meanwhile, I have been saving my pennies for the range finder Holy Grail of a Leica M6 "classic". It arrived today but I still can't afford a Leica lens for it. I'll take delivery of the 2nd best - new Carl Zeiss 35mm f/2.8. Yeah, it isn't a fast lens but I mostly shoot 400 speed Kodak and Ilford b&w film. Now I am awaiting the Zeiss lens so I can go out and expose some film.

eli griggs · Jan 1, 2021

There are good ebay sellers of copper self-sticking conducting tapes, in a wide assortment of sizes, for a small price.

I bought a good brand for less than $10 U.S., (.5 inch or 12mm) for a number of projects, repairs and decorations and am planing to try to see if, by wrapping old wire to photocells, I can revive a Luna Pro and some Weston IV meters that may only need a good alternative route for delivering power from the cell, to the meter function.

I believe in voltages as small as we are discussing, the tiny boost copper, no aluminum tape bridge delivers will at least give longer life to any power feed and only fine silver .999,
could improve on that task.

IMO.

SchwinnParamount · Jan 1, 2021

eli griggs said:
There are good ebay sellers of copper self-sticking conducting tapes, in a wide assortment of sizes, for a small price.

I bought a good brand for less than $10 U.S., (.5 inch or 12mm) for a number of projects, repairs and decorations and am planing to try to see if, by wrapping old wire to photocells, I can revive a Luna Pro and some Weston IV meters that may only need a good alternative route for delivering power from the cell, to the meter function.

I believe in voltages as small as we are discussing, the tiny boost copper, no aluminum tape bridge delivers will at least give longer life to any power feed and only fine silver .999,
could improve on that task.

IMO.

I used some of that copper tape to restore the function of the light meter on my Canon F-1n. The battery compartment positive contact (or negative - not sure) lost its spring tension so now I tuck a bit of that copper in below the battery to close the gap to the contact.

eli griggs · Jan 1, 2021

John M Austin said:
I used some of that copper tape to restore the function of the light meter on my Canon F-1n. The battery compartment positive contact (or negative - not sure) lost its spring tension so now I tuck a bit of that copper in below the battery to close the gap to the contact.

Yes, John, I have used it so, where I had for many years before, used aluminum foil for wad bridges on Yashica rangefinders and other cameras, ad hoc, which I feel gave middling performance.

I did no even try to bridge connections, with other than solder, where now it is possible to do so with that tape.

Other battery pocket approach that works is to take 14ga. copper wire and make a cone shaped coil, or thick Gage copper wire, sold by the foot at Home Depot, etc, from large reels back in their electrical department, and buy it in slightly thicker lengths, ie, needed 10 ga, buy 8 ga,.

Anneal the wire in the oven or by torch, and cut off a piece that will fit into the compartment and slowly, beat it down to a good, firm thickness that fits tightly in the pocket, with batteries.

You can do similar with an old silver coin or ring, etc, but if you cut a section from a round or one oz. bar of fine silver, you can beat a silver bridge into shape.

If you use fine silver, .999 or better, you will no have to use pickle, like you would with sterling .925 or coin silver, .90.

Of course, the copper tape is great in the first place and can be easily be cut, stacked, rolled, bend and making circuits, etc, as needed in just a few moments of your time.

The only issue I've found with this stuff, is you need to burnish it tight to the existing good spots that still carry current, as you go, so the current will pass consistently, which a too light application might prevent .

IMO.

Happy New Years to All, Godspeed in this New Year, to all of you and you're Loved Ones, throughout 2021!

Eli Griggs

SchwinnParamount · Jan 1, 2021

Hi Eli,

The admins should make your post sticky. The process you described will get more and more important as old cameras get older and "new" ones begin to need the same help.

Donald Qualls · Jan 2, 2021

Latest "new old camera" update: I just pulled the trigger on a pre-War Contax III. Looking forward to testing it when it arrives, and hoping it'll fit in the everready case for a Kiev 4 (if not, I'll have to shop for a case).

tom43 · Jan 2, 2021

Unused, new old stock Bessaflex TM in silver from 2007. The last built M42 camera...will be a nice addition to my Spotmatic SP II and the Praktica MTL50.

scyg · Jan 3, 2021

RLangham said:
Ugh... hoods for bay I can be expensive, can’t they? And I admit I’ve never heard of flocking.

I got a cheapo Chinese hood for something like $10. Works just as well as the precious $50 a pop vintage pieces, though it doesn't look as sexy. Oh well. And flocking is just black velvet-type paper that reduces internal reflections, which you can get at telescope hobby sites, or the big A if you don't mind selling your soul to Beelzebezos. The D particularly seems to have problems with internal reflections, which I think account for its so-so reputation vs other contemporary cameras. Many of those had better internal coatings and/or baffles that cut down on all those photons bouncing around inside.

What's your latest new old camera ? (Part 2)

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