Judas windows never work as well in the field as their designers anticipate. The optics get dirty and dim, or the lighting isn't right. Now, I still want one of the later Minolta srT models with a Judas window to show aperture, but it isn't exactly a rational desire.The F2AS illuminates the shutter speed display, and the meter display is a bright red LED. However the aperture display is optically shown from the aperture ring, so it relies on ambient light. No illumination of it at night!!
The F2SB illuminates shutter speed AND aperture.
Judas windows never work as well in the field as their designers anticipate. The optics get dirty and dim, or the lighting isn't right. Now, I still want one of the later Minolta srT models with a Judas window to show aperture, but it isn't exactly a rational desire.
Niiiiiiiiccccccceeeee!!!!!!I was just gifted a Toyo 810Gii along with 14 8x10 film holders, 4x5 reducing back, and 3 boxes of film. :-O
Niiiiiiiiccccccceeeee!!!!!!
Konica Autoreflex A (1st gen) with its Hexanon 52mm 1.8, and a companion Vivitar 200mm 3.5 lens
Estate sale, silly excuse for buying it: I could not get myself to leave it behind.
Very clean.
Heavy, you got something REAL your hands.
Noisiest shutter I even heard!
It got me to learn a few things about Konica, not a bad thing.
I just got an Olympus XA in working but scuffed up condition for... get ready... SEVEN BUCKS at a rich man's estate sale. They obviously didn't know what it was and thought it was any other plastic pocket camera.
I've put a short roll of Foma 200 through it already... but it seems to have run down the battery a little quick. Alkali 1.5v batteries are trash.
It doesnt shut off when I close the cover partially but I don't know how to check if it's shutting off when I close it completely... certainly it doesn't fire when the case is closed.Check that the meter is shutting off when you close the camera. Failing to do is something I think I remember reading about when I got my XA -- and it's reasonably easy to fix, as I recall.
Mamiya m645 1000s, with 80mm 1.9 lens, 45,150,and 500mm lens, metering prism,spare 120 insert, and a few other bits and pieces for £250 GBP,all in the Mamiya fitted case, fully serviced and guaranteed for six months,
Well, it's not that the batteries died, it's that they quickly started to give slower and slower shutter speeds for the same light at the same aperture--i.e., they were no longer supplying the correct voltage, so the camera was registering less light.Hmmm. I haven't seen mine in several years (packed for a move, hasn't been unpacked yet). Might be someone can make good suggestions over on "Camera Building, Repairs, and Modification".
Congratulations, that is a great gift and I hope you enjoy it everytime you take it out for a shoot.
Do no forget to post the pics and a link from here to there, if that's your thing.
It doesnt shut off when I close the cover partially but I don't know how to check if it's shutting off when I close it completely... certainly it doesn't fire when the case is closed.
I've confirmed now that they're not draining when the camera is closed. It's just that they were getting a little low already and then I took some long exposures and used the self timer a couple of times so they got rather flat. But what green light do you mean?Open the camera, see if the green/red light is on, the with your eye still looking through the window, as it begins to appear, slowly slide the clamshell closed.
If the switch is working, the light will go off,
To confirm, slowly open the camera shell and after a few mm to a cm, the light should come on.
Leaving the clamshell open means the battery will be on and drain, its as simple as that.
This camera was designed for silver oxide batteries, so ditch your alkalines and get a fresh pair of SR44's
In case you need them, this link will give you both user manuals, short then long, in the same PDA.
Please consider making a donation to the site.
https://www.butkus.org/chinon/olympus/olympus_xa/olympus_xa.htm
Good Luck.
Get a set of fresh SR44 batteries, and a second for your bag, then measure the voltage and more impotently, the micro amps to note those and the hour and day you put these into your XA.
At the first sign of your camera balking at doing it's job, remeasure the electrics, and workout how many hours/days since you first replaced the old batteries.
If you do no have a multimeter, Harbor Freight has a small red one they sometimes give away with a purchase, which on it's own is about $5 and there are smart phone coupons you can download and show for another 20% or higher discounts (around holidays) at 25%.
Cheers.
I mean... I have a good engineer's multi... I just don't really care enough to dig it out. I know silver oxide would do better... am I gonna buy them? Maybe, maybe not. Maybe after grad school when I have a real job.
That's up to you, yea or nae, but keep in mind that some camera electrics could care less what you are feeding them, but others are very choosy and will no work 'correctly' or at 100% without the OEM battery the manual directs you to use.
Remember, there is a reason Olympus picked Silver Oxide instead of Alkaline batteries, which were/are much easier to find and affordable than the former and this maybe why you're no getting top performance, or perhaps even proper exposures.
IMO, good Luck and Be Safe, Healthy and Happy.
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