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murdockhendrix said:
Received Ilford Rapid Fixer 500ml, 4oz sodium metabisulfite, & 4oz ferric chloride powder. I want to try a different b&w reversal that doesn't require having to re-expose the film off the reel. I have a hard time getting the film back on the reel.
Click to expand...

You don't need to remove film from the reel to re-expose it. Back in the Ektachrome E-1,2,3 days you were instructed to hold the reel up to a photoflood, being careful not to drip on the hot bulb and have the lamp shatter.

I did some reversal processing a few years back, I used a bright LED flashlight, worked great.
 
I read a trick not too long ago -- when it's time for reversal exposure, pull the reel (and core, usually) out of the tank and put it in a stainless mixing bowl full of water (so you don't get water drops marked in the positives) and shine your bright light into the bowl. The bowl will direct the light into the film from below and the sides, in addition to the direct exposure from above. Once you've exposed enough, back into the tank for the color developer (or second developer, if it's B&W).
 
@mshchem Thanks for the info. This was my first time trying b&w reversal after I ran across this video on Youtube. A stroke years ago affected the dexterity of both hands making re-spooling a pain. I am going to try another reversal process involving ferric chloride, ammonia & sodium metabisulfite. This procedure doesn't include re-exposing the film.

@Donald Qualls That's a very convenient way to do it. Thanks.
 
A set of red, orange, yellow and green 4x4 Sinar filters and some more Cokin z-pro rings to fit all my Bronica lenses.
 
murdockhendrix said:
@mshchem Thanks for the info. This was my first time trying b&w reversal after I ran across this video on Youtube. A stroke years ago affected the dexterity of both hands making re-spooling a pain. I am going to try another reversal process involving ferric chloride, ammonia & sodium metabisulfite. This procedure doesn't include re-exposing the film.

@Donald Qualls That's a very convenient way to do it. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a good plan. I have neuropathy in my hands, I can't feel things like I could 30 years ago. I bought a Infrared viewer, really a toy, that I strap to my head, allows me to see in the dark . I use this for film loading, amazing tool. I bought a couple of these used on Ebay for $45 each, uses 4 AA batteries. Jackson Pacific Spynet goggles 😊

My mother used to say getting old ain't for sissies! Good luck with your new process!
 
murdockhendrix said:
another reversal process involving ferric chloride, ammonia & sodium metabisulfite. This procedure doesn't include re-exposing the film.
Click to expand...

i've seen reversal processes that don't require light exposure. A stannous chloride fogging bath is one method; another is to use either sodium dithionite (commercial laundry product Iron Out) or sepia toner to fog and develop the halide left after first dev and bleach steps. All of these, of course, can be done in the tank without even opening it.

That said, the few times I've done B&W reversal I've just used light exposure, but never took the film off the reel to do it. I just pulled the reel out of the tank and held it near a bowl reflector floodlamp, moving it around so it gets exposed from all sides. The 800 ft-candle-seconds that Kodak recommends is a minimum; more exposure won't have any significant effect on modern films (the "black sun" effect, where excessive exposure caused loss of density, only occurred on emulsions from before the 1950s, IIRC), so if in doubt, give the reel a few more seconds under the light. If I were doing it again now (and I might be, soon) I'd probably hit the local Goodwill and try to find an 8" or larger stainless bowl to act as a reflector/concentrator.
 
I had a re-spooling tool for 620 film 3D printed for my Kodak Brownie Hawkeye Flash model. So far I've been able to clip down the plastic spools and I have several 620 spools for take ups.

(2) 35mm Drop Cases for b&w and color cassettes.

35mm Film Drop cases.jpg


For Christmas I received a Lomography Digitaliza 120 scanning mask to use with my Epson V-600. But it's so hard to get it aligned properly, it bugged me. So I had a Digitaliza film holder guide (both 120 & 35mm) 3D printed and after a dry run it seems I found a solution for my scanning. I also ordered a Digitaliza 35mm mask yesterday.

3D print for Digitaliza.jpg


@Donald Qualls That's the process I am planning on using the one with Iron-Out. From Analog Resurgence on Youtube.
 
SuperGlue to reattach an eyecup on the SWC.
 
5 rolls of 120 Kentmere 100

20230125_145447.jpg
 
A Pentax 645 with a 45mm lens, a pro pack of Provia 100f and some Fomapan 100, FP4+ and HP5+

What have I done!?
 
Roger Thoms said:
You’ve done good!!!

I like the 645 format and find it prints nicely on 11x14 paper with 1” borders. Enjoy your “new” camera.

Roger
Click to expand...

Thanks!

This is my first medium format camera and it's the "opening a can of worms" aspect that made me wonder what I've done. 😄

So far, I had two 135 systems, the Olympus OM and Canon EF, with a pretty good selection of lenses for both. Now I have to acquire even more...
 
2 big ol' honkin' Packard shutters.
Now I have to figure how to mount one on the front of my 11" Verito...and add flash sync.
 
A 6 pack of new PH111 bayonet bulbs for my recently-acquired Beseler 23cii (finally back in stock!), Foma 5x7 FB paper, and 2.5x3.5 print file sleeves for storing the soon to be wallets.

Oh and last week, an Ez-El for wallet sizes too. I can cut those 25x sheets into 100 wallets, minus test strips maybe. (Once I get it dialed in I might get away with good prints first time).

I had to add 6-stops worth of ND Gel in the filter drawer to tame this thing with small prints. I was doing 5x7 and sub-second exposures with F5.6 (Nikkor F2.8) before I added the ND.
 
AnselMortensen said:
2 big ol' honkin' Packard shutters.
Now I have to figure how to mount one on the front of my 11" Verito...and add flash sync.
Click to expand...

I was working on modeling a front-mount for a packard shutter that could be 3d printed. The design was going to use cokin or Lee filter mounting discs. I found that one of the people here (I forget his username) did similar:


I ran out of steam on that project when I got a Sinar shutter.
 
I found a R60 Nikon Bayonet rear filter for my 15mm and 16mm lenses. I am looking for one more Y48 filter.
 
abruzzi said:
I was working on modeling a front-mount for a packard shutter that could be 3d printed. The design was going to use cokin or Lee filter mounting discs. I found that one of the people here (I forget his username) did similar:


I ran out of steam on that project when I got a Sinar shutter.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that information! 👍
 
Was just given to me by a friend's dad. What a little gem. Not a fan of zoom lenses though, so I ordered a 50mm prime. Looking at as 28mm a well.
PXL_20230128_191048049~2.jpg
 
Mamiya 645 Super Slide cutter. But, of course, the viewfinder mask was not in the box. I imagine those get lost very quickly or left in the camera quite often.
 
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