I bought a variety of American landscapes body caps and to protect newly acquired islanders I got 452 mm UV filters. You can find new MC slim line Walimex UV filters for little $$ on Amazon; no need for eBay. They are very good and a true bargain.
Wired shelving to make better use of darkroom counter space - one for the Phototherm and one for the CPP2. Much easier and portable than building complex wall shelving.
6 Fidelity 5x4 DDS film holders, half a box of Delta 100 (13 sheets) and 47 sheets Fomapan 200 at a very good price the film is worth 2/3rds of what I've paid and only just expired last month, so a bargain.
Wired shelving to make better use of darkroom counter space - one for the Phototherm and one for the CPP2. Much easier and portable than building complex wall shelving. View attachment 292497
4 3-48 x 1/2” ss flathead machine screws with nuts and washers to attach a flange to a lens board. The lens in question also a recent purchase is a Gundlach Radar Anast. f6.3 8x10 in an Ilex No. 5 Universal shutter.
Roger
Here's the flange installed with the 3-48 machine screws after boring out the lens board.
And here’s the Gundlach Radar mounted and ready to go. The camera is a Chamonix 8x10 that was also a recent purchase. Lol, the Radar came up on Craigslist on a Friday afternoon so I ended driving 50 miles in rush hour traffic, which took two hours, and then the seller beat me up on the price and I ended up paying fifty dollars more than he was asking.
4 3-48 x 1/2” ss flathead machine screws with nuts and washers to attach a flange to a lens board. The lens in question also a recent purchase is a Gundlach Radar Anast. f6.3 8x10 in an Ilex No. 5 Universal shutter.
Just ordered more 3-48 ss flathead screws along with black oxide stainless steel nuts and washers. I thought the black oxide would be a nice touch for the inside of the lens boards. Oh and did I mention that the nuts are self locking, certainly don’t want the lens to fall off. Also ordered a tap and tap drill so I have the option of threading the hole instead of using nuts and washers. Got to love McMaster-Carr they have a heck of a selection. Now I have a good assortment of screw lengths so I don’t have to sit there with my Dremel Tool cutting screws off.
I bought a cheap used lens adapter board to adapt a Linhof Technika board to a Toyo M540 (I think). I dropped the board off at the local machine shop, and for $25 they cut it down to Galvin size (5 inches/127mm), so now I can mount and number of lenses I already have on my Galvin 6x9. With that setup, I can focus my Nikkor-W 75/4.5 down to infinity. I have a couple of 65mm lenses that can't reach infinity on the Galvin, so I'll need something else for them (I tried fitting a recessed Linhof board on the adapter, but it doesn't fit--the recess part is larger than the hole on the adapter board.)
A couple of simple affordable, brass step-ups rings, an updated Hasselblad lens shade, with needed filter adapter in near mint condition for about $26US, shipped and, I hope, a 8mm Hasselblad extension tube, IF, my offer is accepted.
I hit what for me is a jackpot. Stopped at a junk store bought a box for $29 US.
2 Hasselblad A12 backs, an A16, a set of 3 genuine Hasselblad extension tubes, a 210mm Schneider Symmar-S 5.6, original 500cm manuals, a "Gold" Hasselblad dark slide. The magazines need light seals. From 1974, the foam is crumbled. Otherwise in superb condition. Seals are an easy fix.
Fun!
I hit what for me is a jackpot. Stopped at a junk store bought a box for $29 US.
2 Hasselblad A12 backs, an A16, a set of 3 genuine Hasselblad extension tubes, a 210mm Schneider Symmar-S 5.6, original 500cm manuals, a "Gold" Hasselblad dark slide. The magazines need light seals. From 1974, the foam is crumbled. Otherwise in superb condition. Seals are an easy fix.
Fun!
bought a box for $29 US.
2 Hasselblad A12 backs, an A16, a set of 3 genuine Hasselblad extension tubes, a 210mm Schneider Symmar-S 5.6, original 500cm manuals, a "Gold" Hasselblad dark slide.
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