Bottle of Ilford Multigrade paper developer, a bottle of Sprint stop bath, 10 rolls Ilford HP5 120, and two 25-packs of 120 film Print File sleeves.
what waS your last photography related purchase?
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Canon F1 w/ 35 - 105 f3.5 lens at the PHSNE Photographica today. Also on the way is a T Booster, 3 rolls of Aero chrome and a B+W orange filter from a few sellers on ebay.
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Not exactly a high-dollar purchase (69¢ plus the governer's cut), nor true photo gear, but will be used for photography nonetheless.....
While strolling through the local Goodwill store the other day, I spied the perfect 'case' to hold the bag bellows for my Shen Hao 4x5. Rip-stop nylon, and black to boot.
Much better than having the bag bellows flop around loose in the backpack.
While strolling through the local Goodwill store the other day, I spied the perfect 'case' to hold the bag bellows for my Shen Hao 4x5. Rip-stop nylon, and black to boot.
Much better than having the bag bellows flop around loose in the backpack.
a couple of bottles of HC-110, pretty old but still syrupy. Some Fuji FP100c.
Downgraded my DPUG body back down to a D200 and replaced the 24/2 AI Nikkor with an 80-200/4 AIS Zoom-Nikkor. Needed cash, so traded things away. I have a beat up 24/2.8 AI Nikkor that I need to pick up from the local repair shop, so I don't really need to reacquire another 24.
-J
-J
Nikon FM3A from KEH, might replace my FM2n with it.
The FM3a is a wonderful camera. I bought mine new in 2004. There is a nice pancake lens for this camera: Nikon AI 45mm f/2.8 P with a special shade. See: http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/45.htm
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a container full of Patterson Film clips - over 2 dozen of them.
I asked how much (it was at a camera market) - I was expecting something like 2 for $5.
He said $10 - but I had to take the container as well as all the film clips....
Oh well - I can always use another 1 liter measuring jug.....
I asked how much (it was at a camera market) - I was expecting something like 2 for $5.
He said $10 - but I had to take the container as well as all the film clips....
Oh well - I can always use another 1 liter measuring jug.....
If said 2n is titanium shuttered, I *might* be interested in buying it from you, if you're thinking of selling.
Anyway, decided knowing where my battery charger was rather important, so the 200 and the 80-200 zoom went back. I did ditch the 35/2, which, while it had nice glass, was pretty worn.
Later yesterday (now that it's Wednesday), I swapped the A screen in my F for the P screen that was in my old F2AS, so, the Soverized F2AS, the F3P, and the F all have the same screen type in them. A couple hours ago, won an AS IS condition chrome F for $18.50, plus shipping.
-J
A sheet of 2mm aluminium 750mmx500mm to make some negative carriers, 6x17cm & 7"x5", for my De Vere 5108 enlarger.
Ian
Ian
- Goat leather in 0.2mm thick to make bellows for Agfa Isolette.
- Fine mechanic kit which helped to dismantle the Agfa Isolette.
- Dry grease.
- Fine mechanic kit which helped to dismantle the Agfa Isolette.
- Dry grease.
A Fuji 10x12 enlarging easel, one steel tank for a single 120 roll, and two steel tanks for single 135 rolls. I now have enough variety in tanks and reels to go all steel. Now I just need some negative carriers for the Beseler 23Cii.
In a case of SOGAS (that's "sudden onset gear acquisition syndrome"), I saw this at a thrift store for $2.99 and couldn't resist.
The Minolta 110 Zoom SLR. I was already into photography when this camera came out. They advertised it as though it were technology as advanced as a manned spacecraft. At the time, I saw little need for a camera of this price range that used 110 film, but, now, I was very curious to see what it will be like to use one. My last roll of Fujicolor Superia 200 size 110 escaped its 10+ years in the freezer as I loaded it. The batteries are very common 357/LR44/E13 button cells, so that is no problem. I did notice that with one set of batteries, the shutter did not always open when tripped, but with another pair, it seems to be reliable (this leads me to a question - with the battery check button, does the red arrow in the viewfinder mean the batteries are good or that the batteries are weak?).
Playing with the AE shutter showed an interesting curiosity. On very long exposures, the camera would be silent during most of the exposure, but, toward the end, a faint whine will be heard, increasing with volume and pitch, until it becomes a high-pitched whine just before the instant the shutter closes. This was very familiar to me - exactly the same sound is made when taking a long exposure on a Yashica Electro 35. Are the shutters in the 110 Zoom SLR and the Electro 35 somehow related?
The zoom lens seems to focus a sharp image on the tiny focusing screen. At first, I had though the microprism center focus was unusable, perhaps a consequence of the small format - then I made a discovery. When I backed my eye about 2" away from the eyepiece, the microprism worked as well as in any 35mm SLR I had ever used. It was when my eye was right to the eyepiece that the microprism looked like a useless checkerboard.
The find brought back memories of my use of 110 in the past. When 110 was new, I hated it, because the picture quality in the pictures taken by friends and relatives using 110, using the emulsions of the mid-1970s, was not good to my eyes. Oddly, I rediscovered 110 decades later, when I took a Pocket Instamatic 20, a junk store find, on a trip in 1995. The film had improved and quality was actually good, finally doing justice to the 20's triplet lens. Around the turn of this century, the films got even better (IMHO Superia 200 was best, but the EK product, even Gold 400, was not bad, either), and I shot several rolls with a Pocket Instamatic 60. The snapshots were quite good, indeed (note that at this time, I was also using both a Stereo camera and a 35mm SLR with slide film).
So, 110 was the format that was only good after it was just about dead in the marketplace. By the time Superia 200 and Gold were introduced, snapshooters everywhere had switched to 35mm point-and-shoots.
110 was also the format first and hardest hit by the digital revolution. Look what a 110 camera could do circa 2003 - it could take nice color print shots that could produce decent enlargments up to 8"x10" (20x25cm), or about 3-5 megapixels worth. Circa 2004, very compact digicams in the 3-5 MP range first became commonplace, and 110 quickly vanished.
The Minolta 110 Zoom SLR. I was already into photography when this camera came out. They advertised it as though it were technology as advanced as a manned spacecraft. At the time, I saw little need for a camera of this price range that used 110 film, but, now, I was very curious to see what it will be like to use one. My last roll of Fujicolor Superia 200 size 110 escaped its 10+ years in the freezer as I loaded it. The batteries are very common 357/LR44/E13 button cells, so that is no problem. I did notice that with one set of batteries, the shutter did not always open when tripped, but with another pair, it seems to be reliable (this leads me to a question - with the battery check button, does the red arrow in the viewfinder mean the batteries are good or that the batteries are weak?).
Playing with the AE shutter showed an interesting curiosity. On very long exposures, the camera would be silent during most of the exposure, but, toward the end, a faint whine will be heard, increasing with volume and pitch, until it becomes a high-pitched whine just before the instant the shutter closes. This was very familiar to me - exactly the same sound is made when taking a long exposure on a Yashica Electro 35. Are the shutters in the 110 Zoom SLR and the Electro 35 somehow related?
The zoom lens seems to focus a sharp image on the tiny focusing screen. At first, I had though the microprism center focus was unusable, perhaps a consequence of the small format - then I made a discovery. When I backed my eye about 2" away from the eyepiece, the microprism worked as well as in any 35mm SLR I had ever used. It was when my eye was right to the eyepiece that the microprism looked like a useless checkerboard.
The find brought back memories of my use of 110 in the past. When 110 was new, I hated it, because the picture quality in the pictures taken by friends and relatives using 110, using the emulsions of the mid-1970s, was not good to my eyes. Oddly, I rediscovered 110 decades later, when I took a Pocket Instamatic 20, a junk store find, on a trip in 1995. The film had improved and quality was actually good, finally doing justice to the 20's triplet lens. Around the turn of this century, the films got even better (IMHO Superia 200 was best, but the EK product, even Gold 400, was not bad, either), and I shot several rolls with a Pocket Instamatic 60. The snapshots were quite good, indeed (note that at this time, I was also using both a Stereo camera and a 35mm SLR with slide film).
So, 110 was the format that was only good after it was just about dead in the marketplace. By the time Superia 200 and Gold were introduced, snapshooters everywhere had switched to 35mm point-and-shoots.
110 was also the format first and hardest hit by the digital revolution. Look what a 110 camera could do circa 2003 - it could take nice color print shots that could produce decent enlargments up to 8"x10" (20x25cm), or about 3-5 megapixels worth. Circa 2004, very compact digicams in the 3-5 MP range first became commonplace, and 110 quickly vanished.
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500g Hydroquinone
200g Potassium Ferricyanide
1kg Sodium Sulphite
1kg Sodium Carbonate
1kg Sodium Thiosulphate
Added to my slowly growing stash of raw chemicals.
Oh, and a small pack of Ilford BW paper.
200g Potassium Ferricyanide
1kg Sodium Sulphite
1kg Sodium Carbonate
1kg Sodium Thiosulphate
Added to my slowly growing stash of raw chemicals.
Oh, and a small pack of Ilford BW paper.
I bought a recently CLA'd (with receipt) 1951 Leica IIIf black dial body this morning, for a very good price. I'm gonna have to use my Industar lens on it for awhile until I can afford a nice collapsible 50mm. I've heard some people say that the rangefinder registration doesn't work with the Russian/Ukrainian lenses, though I personally know several people who have no problems. So I guess we'll see.
I just received a package of Ilford MG Classic FB in 24x30 cm
Latest thrift store score:
Oly Pen extension tube set and Vivitar 2X TC for Pen F mount.
Grab bag of stuff for $2: Canon FD body cap, rear lens cap, Prinz 43mm skylight filter (great for my 38/1.8), Walz "For Canon" vented RF screw in hood that will be perfect for my Canon 50/1.5 when using it so I don't lose the Canon slip on hood.
Oly Pen extension tube set and Vivitar 2X TC for Pen F mount.
Grab bag of stuff for $2: Canon FD body cap, rear lens cap, Prinz 43mm skylight filter (great for my 38/1.8), Walz "For Canon" vented RF screw in hood that will be perfect for my Canon 50/1.5 when using it so I don't lose the Canon slip on hood.
Well I had been suffering from GAS, RB67 plus a handful of lenses / Fuji GSW690 III / Mamiya ZM / ME Super / 'Blad 500 EL / Mamiya C330 but have recently purchased an F3 plus a couple of lenese and a 500CM and that combo seems to have sorted it out - absolutely love taking these two out ! I had been thinking of a Fuji GX680 / F5 / Mamiya Universal Press / Contax G2 / Mamiya 6 but at the mo I'm not that fussed - probably wont last long !
2 filters for my wonderful Hasselblad from a member of this forum
200/4 Nikkor AIS that's pretty beat, but shoots well. Also a roll of Ektar 100. Both items for $45, plus tax.
-J
-J
5 rolls of Kodak Gold 200 exp 2010. 25 cents at Goodwill.
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A bundle of film (colour, B&W, and E6), some 16mm reels and tank, and two Ansel Adams books from here on Apug. 1 doz boxes of 100' Kodak 7266 16mm Tri-X, and a couple of hundred ft of old 35mm B&W films various types which all came in a box at a garage sale I drove past wondering what could be left at 4:30pm on a Monday afternoon.
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