• Welcome to Photrio!
    Registration is fast and free. Join today to unlock search, see fewer ads, and access all forum features.
    Click here to sign up

what was the last camera you used, last film and how was it developed


I've not shot Retropan at all, but my starting assumption is that all films are really 1/2 box ASA with normal agitation development. In this case, it's 1/3 slower than that, which is well within meter and temperature tolerances, so it's not a shocking number. The only way I've ever found to get film to hit full box ASA and deliver decent Zone III shadow detail is if I do extended development like N+++++ or semi-stand/EMA low agitation development.

I have shot tons of Fomapan 200, and a bit of the 100. They love to build contrast really fast, and in some unpleasant ways. For low contrast scenes, this works to your advantage and you can get wonderful results with semi-stand or EMA. But for scenes with 7 stops or greater SBR, the long development starts to blow out highlights, or least makes them dense and hard to print through. I am currently exploring divided Pyrocat-HD for those situations. It's great for very long SBRs, but I am still dialing in what to do with a 7-8 stop range of light in this regard.
 
A complicated scene: the 21st Street Bridge, Tacoma, Washington, USA. Kodak Panatomic-X film, Fuji GW690II camera, 90mm ƒ/3.5 Fuji lens, deep yellow filter, tripod-mounted. Scanned on a Minolta Scan Multi film scanner as a 16-bit TIFF file. Praus Productions in Rochester, NY, developed the film.


 
chuckroast said:
the long development starts to blow out highlights, or least makes them dense and hard to print through.
Click to expand...

I've long been using extended development and reduced agitation -- I settled on 3 minute agitation cycles back around 2006, which gives me 40% increase over table or chart times for a given film/developer combinsation. This works best with diluted developers like Parodinal 1:50, but I've used it with D-23 replenished stock, and even Xtol replenished stock with good results. Combined with metering for shadows, I get good shadow detail at box speed even with legendarily "slower than rated" film/developer combinations like Foma 400 in Parodinal (which some would rate at EI 125-160).
 
Nice shot!
 
lobitar said:
Nice shot!
Click to expand...

Thank you. An elevated overpass gives you a good view of the complicated industrial scene at the Foss Waterway in Tacoma., Washington. To the east is a huge BNSF railroad yard. I took a number of pictures here with Panatomic-X and my Fuji GW690II camera.
 
Bronica EC-TL, Bronica 50mm f/3.5 Nikkor-H, Catlabs X Film 320 Pro, shot at ISO 200, used a Zomei 82mm IR 720nm filter, developed at home using B's Processor, Photographers Formulary TD-16, 1:1, 5:45m at 20° C, JOBO 1520 tank, 3 min pre-wash, used quality volume (500ml for JOBO 1520), decreased development time by 5% per the B's guide.

Bridge over Lake Oneida by Richard Hendrix, on Flickr
 
Last edited:
4x5 Cambo SF, 210mm Sironar, with Norman flash. TriX pan and Berger 400 developed in FX25. Will try to print today. Will try to finish copy stand this week so I can post.
 
I made the prints yesterday and am pleased with the results. The chinese 10 turn pots on my LED head Died and I'm back to a plain potentiometer with a % index which worked fine. I started about grade 3 and shifted to about 2.3 for the final print.
 
Just put my last roll through my Elan II. It's glitching out electronically so I think it's time to retire it. I really like the camera, either I find a replacement model or get the Elan 7. I liked the Elan II because it has the ability to use back button focus. Most of my other EOS bodies don't have that options.

RIP Elan II.
 
I made a scan of the film today with my new copy stand. For the First Time on Film, The Birth of an Egg!


I managed to place all the tones correctly and that was a big part of this project.
 
I may have made an opsie and loaded my roll of 120 backwards so those 15 shots are a bust, luckily the photos are nothing I can't replace short of a nuke strike on the Las Vegas area (and of that happened, it's not like I'd be around to care.)
 
Bronica EC-TL, Bronica 50mm f/3.5 Nikkor-H, Catlabs X Film 320 Pro, shot at ISO 200, using a Zomei 82mm IR 720nm filter, developed at home using B's Processor, Photographers Formulary TD-16, 1:1, 5:45m at 20° C, JOBO 1520 tank, 3 min pre-wash, used quality volume (500ml for JOBO 1520), decreased development time by -5% per the B's guide.
 
Bronica EC-TL, Bronica 50mm f/3.5 Nikkor-H, Catlabs X Film 320 Pro, shot at ISO 200, using a Zomei 82mm IR 720nm filter, developed at home using B's Processor, Photographers Formulary TD-16, 1:1, 5:45m at 20° C, JOBO 1520 tank, 3 min pre-wash, used quality volume (500ml for JOBO 1520), decreased development time by -5% per the B's guide.
 
Minox B, Adox CMS 20 II Pro, Adotech IV 11mins @ 23deg, scanned with Fuji X-T30 + 7Artesans 40mm Macro lens, I'm amazed at the print quality.
 

Attachments

  • Minox1424Processed_c.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 80
Fujica G617 TMY-2 XTOL stock. Sleeved the negatives, next to print. I went back two days in a row. First time contrasty and boring, glad I went back. It's not going to win any medals but I'm glad I made the effort.
 
Juice box box camera -- simple plastic lens, ilford HP5. Actually does a decent job as long as edge sharpness isn't high on your priority list.
 
Picked up another film from the lab today.
Kowa Six, 85mm f2.8, Kodak Portra 160.
 

Attachments

  • PSX_20240809_211037.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 65
Ronny H said:
Picked up another film from the lab today.
Kowa Six, 85mm f2.8, Kodak Portra 160.
Click to expand...
Nice shot! After all color has it's uses. Incidentally, perhaps it's about time to give my Kowa a run for the money...
 
Leica CL / Canon 28mm 2.8 LTM/ Kentmere 100/Pyrocat HD/1+1+100. 8.5 min 20°C/ print on Ultrafine Silver Eagle
Checking shutter speeds & tweaking exposure/development time...before an upcoming euro trip.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Menu
Log in
Register