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Ugh,

My "joshing" is often missunderstood by many.

It's called "busting balls" and is not meant to be rude, it's the "manly" way of saying that I appreciated your efforts and that the prints were so good I had to challenge myself against them. If they were crap, I would not have bothered with the challenge.

So, it's a complement of sorts, sorry if that's not clear.

Be well,

~Stone

Sarcasm comes across very poorly online. That's just a fact.

I was actually a bit offended by your post. Call that a Midwesterner deficiency if you like, but maybe it would also teach you something about your own behavior, and how you have to adjust to the rest of the world, and not the rest of the world adjust to you. It's called empathy and humility.

Sorry if I'm being a drag. Thanks for clarifying, though! I do appreciate it. No BS. I'm really glad my prints did that for you.
 

Bob Carnie

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I just finished 5 - 20 x24 and 2 murals for my upcoming opening... It felt really good to be printing silver again after 2 month almost absence due to building the new facility.

My new darkroom is a bit like the Silence of the Lambs workspace.. I am going to have to spruce it up to make it kick ass... but it is very functional for small and big prints.
 
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I just finished 5 - 20 x24 and 2 murals for my upcoming opening... It felt really good to be printing silver again after 2 month almost absence due to building the new facility.

My new darkroom is a bit like the Silence of the Lambs workspace.. I am going to have to spruce it up to make it kick ass... but it is very functional for small and big prints.

I'm sure you'll have the place blasting with Van Halen in no time, roof shaking and all. If I was independently wealthy, I'd love to come just be your apprentice every day... :smile:
 

Dinesh

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... I'd love to come just be your apprentice every day... :smile:

All joking aside, I learned so much helping out in the darkroom under his watch. It is pretty nerve racking however, to have to hand flip important 20 x 24's in the trays!
 

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My new darkroom is a bit like the Silence of the Lambs workspace...

Thank you, Mr. Carnie. It's twenty to three in the morning here and I was just deciding between getting some sleep or going for a play in the darkroom.

Perhaps I shall go and hide under the bed instead!
 
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All joking aside, I learned so much helping out in the darkroom under his watch. It is pretty nerve racking however, to have to hand flip important 20 x 24's in the trays!

there you go, learning from the master .. the ONLY way to flip 20x24x ..
 

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I have to do my 20x24's in a drum due to lack of space.
 

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35mm Delta 3200 @3200 for a school project, what a waste of film. The teacher insists on a FULL roll shot even though I could do the assignment in 9 exposures.
 

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35mm Delta 3200 @3200 for a school project, what a waste of film. The teacher insists on a FULL roll shot even though I could do the assignment in 9 exposures.

You must remember that not everyone is as talented.
 

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You must remember that not everyone is as talented.

I'm not really all that talented, I am just more experience than this in the shooting department, it's only in the printing department that I need more education at this level the basic level I mean, so it's sort of just annoying to have to take care of all these assignments when really I just want to learn how to print better. When I take the view camera class and black-and-white III I think I'll learn a lot more.
 
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You must remember that not everyone is as talented.

sorry to sound harsh frank ..

often times it is best to not think this ( and be humble ), because lots of times it isn't necessarily true,
itis best to realize the teacher has an mission ... to teach a class, and people with experience's work should be THAT much better ...
( be there to learn ) and even though a and experienced person might think a project could be done in a handful of exposures ( 5, 6? 10? ) ,
having a roll of film forces the student to take risks, maybe think outside the box, outside her / his comfort zone, experiment in a different way of seeing and pull GREAT exposures from the roll instead of oh hum or the dozen exposures that were easy because
they have done stuff like that before ...
people with experience tend to be stuck in their ways, rigid, and a lot of them don't push themselves because they rest on their laurels ( and sometimes full of hubris).
its easy to think something could be done in a flash, but often times it isn't true ... at all.

i used to be sent on assignment, and if it was done in 10 exposures that would have been something else.
i mean what could be hard about photographing a guy who grows grubs, or a ferryboat ride, someone getting a haircut or a person behind a desk. but it usually took 24-36 exposures ( or more ) to get what was needed ( 1 image for publication ) and about the same when
the assignments went electronic. and even now with about 35 years experience i would never take on a project
and think it could be done in 10 exposures.

you see this all the time in cooking competitions "i used these ingredients to make xyz because i have been making them
for the past 20 years"
and the judges say " this tastes good, but sorry this doesn't show any work on your part because you do it the same way every day for 20 years "

===

great to hear you are printing like a fiend stone. keep up the good work, and good luck !
 
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Three rolls of Ilford Pan-F+ hanging to dry now. It's an interesting film. Seems that it requires a lot more development time than any of the publications suggest. I shoot it at EI 12, and develop for 15 minutes in Harvey's 777 @ 75 degrees F. Compare that to Kodak Tri-X @ EI 200, and 11 minutes at the same temp in the same developer. Or 8m30s for Neopan 400 or 1600.
Very nice looking negatives, though. They should print like a dream.
 

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Three rolls of Ilford Pan-F+ hanging to dry now. It's an interesting film. Seems that it requires a lot more development time than any of the publications suggest. I shoot it at EI 12, and develop for 15 minutes in Harvey's 777 @ 75 degrees F. Compare that to Kodak Tri-X @ EI 200, and 11 minutes at the same temp in the same developer. Or 8m30s for Neopan 400 or 1600.
Very nice looking negatives, though. They should print like a dream.

Hmm, how long did you wait to develop them after the exposure was taken? Remember that PanF+ (though one of my favorite films and just amazing) also suffers from a significant latent image failure issue and left more than 2-3 months undeveloped will start to "fade away".

I've found personally that if I keep the film in the fridge I can hold it for 6 months without any kind of degradation. But I know a lot of people just leave their film out and the heat etc. of the ambient room will probably speed up the process.
 

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23 sheets of 8x10 Ilford FB WT Semi-Matte. Using the schools Sprint Developer. I'm tempted to try something different because the sprint sucks, at least they finally bought a bottle of HC-110 for my negatives. But they don't have any other print developers which sucks.

I think I'm starting to like glossy paper now. At least for some work.
 
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Hmm, how long did you wait to develop them after the exposure was taken? Remember that PanF+ (though one of my favorite films and just amazing) also suffers from a significant latent image failure issue and left more than 2-3 months undeveloped will start to "fade away".

I've found personally that if I keep the film in the fridge I can hold it for 6 months without any kind of degradation. But I know a lot of people just leave their film out and the heat etc. of the ambient room will probably speed up the process.

Five days, Stone. :smile: I never let film sit around for months, or even weeks.

I know about Pan-F and its latent image keeping properties. I always do tests with the films I use before I put them to work. And Pan-F+ definitely needs more development than most other films to get enough contrast (with the developer I use), to print well at Grade 3, roughly.

The only other film I know that needs that much development is Delta 3200.
 
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One image in two formats, first 8x10" on RC to practice, and then on 18x24cm FB to have an archival copy. 8 sheets in total, and a lot of teststrips. And four contact sheets.

Tomorrow I'll probably develop some more film (finally back with HC-110, not sure why I started using anything else) and make a few more prints. I'm about to run out of my 18x24cm Adox MCC paper, I'm having a hard time deciding what size to order next, more 18x24cm or 8x10" in Adox MCC?
 
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23 sheets of 8x10 Ilford FB WT Semi-Matte. Using the schools Sprint Developer. I'm tempted to try something different because the sprint sucks, at least they finally bought a bottle of HC-110 for my negatives. But they don't have any other print developers which sucks.

sorry to ask you this directly stone
but why does sprint developer suck ?
their film developer is like d76 + ID11 but you can overprocess with it and it doesn't block highlights
and their print developer is very much like dektol. i've never used d76 but have used sprint film developer
off and on for about 35 years, and their print developer for about 15 years
( i have used dektol when i worked for someone else and maybe have mixed 1 gallon of my own ...
if not for a specialized developer where it came as part of the ingredients .. in about 35 years ) .

do d76 and dektol suck too ?
 
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sorry to ask you this directly stone
but why does sprint developer suck ?
their film developer is like d76 but you can overprocess it and it doesn't block highlights
and their print developer is very much like dektol. do d76 and dektol suck too ?

That's how I always thought of the Sprint film developer too, like 'liquid concentrate D76'. For what it's worth.
 

StoneNYC

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Five days, Stone. :smile: I never let film sit around for months, or even weeks.

I know about Pan-F and its latent image keeping properties. I always do tests with the films I use before I put them to work. And Pan-F+ definitely needs more development than most other films to get enough contrast (with the developer I use), to print well at Grade 3, roughly.

The only other film I know that needs that much development is Delta 3200.

Interesting, I suppose I like the low contrast look? I really like how PanF+ prints and I haven't had issues with getting the contrast that I enjoy nor having to over develop it at all, hmm just goes to show how different we all work :smile: and the eyes we use to view with. Really love the diversity of film, breeds individuality.
 
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Interesting, I suppose I like the low contrast look? I really like how PanF+ prints and I haven't had issues with getting the contrast that I enjoy nor having to over develop it at all, hmm just goes to show how different we all work :smile: and the eyes we use to view with. Really love the diversity of film, breeds individuality.

Yeah, there are many ways to get to an end result, for sure.

Although I don't think of what I do as 'over-developing'. In my mind the 15 minutes is 'normal'. If I shoot in low contrast conditions, I have to increase development if I want a normal contrast negaitve, in which case I'd say I was over-developing...

Pan-F+ sure looks nice in a print! Wonderful stuff. I've been working through a stash of about 30 rolls, and it's been a great experience.
 

StoneNYC

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sorry to ask you this directly stone
but why does sprint developer suck ?
their film developer is like d76 + ID11 but you can overprocess with it and it doesn't block highlights
and their print developer is very much like dektol. i've never used d76 but have used sprint film developer
off and on for about 35 years, and their print developer for about 15 years
( i have used dektol when i worked for someone else and maybe have mixed 1 gallon of my own ...
if not for a specialized developer where it came as part of the ingredients .. in about 35 years ) .

do d76 and dektol suck too ?

I have limited experience and you and I should NOT interact, but for the sake of not entirely ignoring the question.

My teacher (master printer, printed for Amadon and others etc), says it's NOTHING like Dektol, that Sprint can't get the kind of blacks that Dektol can etc.

PERSONALLY, I don't like developers that aren't malleable. Sprint is great for students because they are more haphazard with their development styles, and sprint is tailored to people who are prone to screw up and often covers up poor handling that other developers might show errors.

This of course is great if you're just straight printing images. But if you really want to get creative, it seriously limits you (again in my limited experience). I don't want a developer that prevents blocking up the highlights because it means you're getting lazy and weren't taking care of your exposure in the first place.

There's a reason sprint is used in student environments. My B&W I teacher and I DO NOT get along, he hates me, but we agree on this one point that Sprint Developer isn't really good for printing anything serious.

I've seen your work in person and I've seen your work for the government and for those purposes, yes, sprint is fine, because it's a different type of image than the stuff I'm working on.

Now I haven't used Dektol nor Ilford Multigrade, or those PQ developers, (or whatever that 2 letter type developer is, and I don't understand how the PQ differ).

But I can certainly see that the blacks aren't as black as they could be, no matter how much I expose them or how long I develop them, just not as rich as the Dektol developer prints I've seen. And being that the teacher says this as well, I'm inclined to believe it.

I don't even trust the sprint fixer, the times given to fix out the film are all wrong and I constantly see students with pink film base who haven't fully fixed their film, totally unknowing that they need to fix longer.

There was also that article recently about the master printer for Magnum who was worried about losing Kodak's stop bath, if he was worried simply about a stop bath, something I actually thought I didn't mind with sprint because it's just a stop bath, but if even the type of stop for a printer is important, then certainly a good developer that's malleable is important.

Also Sprint "film developer" and "print developer" are the same thing in different dilutions.
 
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My teacher (master printer, printed for Amadon and others etc), says it's NOTHING like Dektol, that Sprint can't get the kind of blacks that Dektol can etc.

PERSONALLY, I don't like developers that aren't malleable. Sprint is great for students because they are more haphazard with their development styles, and sprint is tailored to people who are prone to screw up and often covers up poor handling that other developers might show errors.


Also Sprint "film developer" and "print developer" are the same thing in different dilutions.


huh

you learn something new every day. i have never heard they are the same exact developer just different dilutions,
or that they are tailor made for people that screw up, and it covers up what other developers might show as errors.
it is formulated as a metol free D76-esque developer ( a la ID-11 ) ( times can be interchanged for the two ) so i guess D76 (and ID-11 )
is also tailor made for people who are haphazard with their development styles &c too ? sprint IS mailable, you can buy their products
right off their website and it is shipped to your doorstep. ...

no blacks?
never experienced that before .. the 3 images attached were processed with sprint film and print developers
they are straight prints no heavy burning and dodging, just enlargements on ilford fbmg paper. the vw fender was probably on the 1st
roll i ever exposed, shot with tri x and printed on kodak rc paepr ... no PS levels &c just test strip and time.
seems they have deep blacks to me, but i don't know, maybe i am too "close" or "invested" in the images?

whether or not some people think the print developers suck or not doesn't really matter much to me
from my experience they don't suck at all, they are pretty darn good liquid concentrate developers that are easy to use, easy to mix.
they show flaws just as easily as any other developer, and someone is easily able to make exhibition prints made
from film processed in sprint film developer or prints that came out of their print developer. i've heard ( and know ) people who don't like
sprint developer because these are what they learned on ( fool proof mixing 1:9 ) and they don't want to be thought of as an amateur ( its the same reason
why no one wanted a speed graphic in the 1980s ... they learned on one and they wanted a high-tech not an amateur camera. )

with regards to not responding to me ( in a thread i started )
if you don't want me ( or anyone else ) to respond to what might be seen as something strange
like that a developer based on a "classic" developer ( D76 ) "sucks" and it is unable to get
blacks &c ... don't post it ?

never heard of amadon ...

===

oh well ... good luck finding a developer that don't "suck"
 
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