What is the grainiest bw film and developer?

TheGreatGasMaskMan

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Something I've been thinking recently, since I tend to prefer fine grained bw film photography, what would be the polar opposite? I ordered myself some Adox Rodinal, and I've got plans to test Film Washi F, Rollei Paul and Reinhold, and Lomo Berlin 400 (keep in mind I don't really have many opportunities to try delta or tmax 3200), but I'm wondering, is there a different combination of film and developer that would give me coarser results?
 

cmacd123

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dektol or equivalent used to be considered Grainy. But I can't say I ever tested that theory.
 

Bill Burk

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Reticulation gives what appears to be coarse grain. I never had it happen to me but have seen some examples.

Also shooting half-frame gets you more grain.

The most grain I’ve ever had was Super-XX expired from the forties, exposed as low as the meter can go EI 2-4.

There’s a thread where I showed some of these examples.
 

Alex Benjamin

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Combination of pushing film + non-solvent developer at low dilution (Rodinal 1+25 for ex.) + developing at higher than normal temperature = grain.
 

albada

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For even more grain, overdevelop the film. @Alex Benjamin advised this when he suggested pushing film. But make sure you can handle the additional contrast in your enlarger or scanner.

Mark
 

albireo

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In 120, Foma Retropan 320 processed in its own developer (Forma Retro, used stock, 5 minutes, 2 inversions per minute) is beautifully grainy.

Sadly I think the product has been recently discontinued.
 

Paul Howell

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As noted 3200, I would try dektol or other paper developer, and would push Tmax 3200 or Delta 3200 to 6400. In terms of cost, Foma 400, as most think that Foma 400 is best at 200, 400 would be a push.
 

Mark Crabtree

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D72 (Dektol) was originally also considered a plate and film developer and does not give all that coarse grain. Of course it is easy to purposely overdevelop with it and get a lot of grain. I think Rodinal would be grainier, and the high acutance developers in general should go that direction.
 

Fatih Ayoglu

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TriX pushed 2 stops with Rodinal 1+25

edit because you have said you dont want to go above 400, you can use a YG filter which is 1 1/3 stop to compensate.
 
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TheGreatGasMaskMan

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Unintentionally reticulated one of my vacation rolls (FPP emulsion x, xtol stock)
but the aesthetic fits
retina_restoration said:
Your best option is Delta 3200, but if that's not available to you...... *shrug*
Click to expand...

I can get delta and tmax 3200 pretty easily, but I pretty much just shoot in daylight so I don't want to go over iso 400, and I work at 5am so I don't want to stay up late doing night photography.

also, some other samples-
Lomo Berlin 400 (120)- hc110 B


1958 expired Tri-X 120 (got three rolls left, maybe I should try one in Rodinal and Dektol

Film Washi F (hc110 a)

Paul and Reinhold that sat in my fridge for probably two years, hc110 B

albireo said:
In 120, Foma Retropan 320 processed in its own developer (Forma Retro, used stock, 5 minutes, 2 inversions per minute) is beautifully grainy.

Sadly I think the product has been recently discontinued.
Click to expand...

Yeah, Freestyle's got Retropan on clearance

I never knew dektol was also called d72
 

Bill Burk

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Hey, if you want some Super-XX I could certainly spare some. It’s a lot of fun shooting 1/30 at f/2 in overcast daylight
 

Bill Burk

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It’s not the film it was when new, lost all its sensitivity due to fog. It’s currently so foggy that you have to shoot it between EI 2-4
 

laser

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Lots of good advice is above:

Undeveloped color and B&W Films that are 800 and faster are sensitive to cosmic radiation that results in grain. The more expired the film the higher the grain.

With over exposure negative films become grainer but you have to deal with longer scan/print times.

B&W films developed in Dektol straight for 3 minutes will be grainy.

Bill Burk mentioned reticulation. Reticulation is the stressing and subsequent failure of the of the gelatin's structure. The result is the gelatin forms a pattern, not AgX grain as such but nonetheless a pattern. Films from the larger manufacturers have technology to resist reticulation. You may find that film from some of the smaller makers' film may reticulate. To cause reticulation one technique is to subject the developed film to hot (don't melt the gelatin) and ice cold water baths. pH can also cause gel swell and shrink. Good luck.
 

Milpool

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POTA might also be worth a try. Development times will be relatively long and fog will be higher than normal but it’s very grainy, likely grainier than any off the shelf MQ/PQ. An old RIT study/paper on edge effects showed POTA was very grainy.
 

Alex Benjamin

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Alex Benjamin said:
Combination of pushing film + non-solvent developer at low dilution (Rodinal 1+25 for ex.) + developing at higher than normal temperature = grain.
Click to expand...

I forgot to mention the most obvious part of the equation: make big prints.
 

RalphLambrecht

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if you are willing to mix the developer yourself from bulk chemicals, there are someRodinal-like formulae. Otherwise, you are in good hands with Rodinal but, I'm often surprised how fine-grain Rodinal can be with some films! If all fails, think of some processing deviations to increase grain: temperature,time, dilution!
 

koraks

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Alex Benjamin said:
I forgot to mention the most obvious part of the equation: make big prints.
Click to expand...

Yes, enlarge lots. Crop massively; only use a quarter of the frame. Shoot Fomapan 400 or whatever name it's sold under where you live. Expose at 400 to 800, develop the heck out of it in 1+2 Dektol. Saves you some time as well waiting around for some slow developer to finish the job.
 
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