What is everyone using to push 35mm HP5?

[TheTrailTog]

I'm curious what everyone prefers for a developer to push 35mm HP5 to 1600 or 3200. In the cabinet right now I have Ilfosol 3, Rodinal, and HC-110 at my disposal and wonder which I should start experimenting with first. Or, because I'm getting ready to order some other supplies, if there is another developer I should add to my shopping list. As always, the wisdom of the forum is greatly appreciated

 

[pentaxuser]

Ilford Microphen seems to be a good bet

pentaxuser

 

[Gerald C Koch]

The HC-110 and Ilfosol would be a better choice than the Rodinal which actually loses some speed. However it is preferable to use a faster film than push a slower one. Why not use Ilford Delta 3200.

 

[TheTrailTog]

...Why not use Ilford Delta 3200.

I went with HP5 because it was cheaper and I could get it in bulk rolls.

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

What subjects, lighting, and desired result are you after?

 

[TheTrailTog]

What subjects, lighting, and desired result are you after?

Very good question, which I should have answered in my original post...DOH! This will be for mostly indoor/low light family and friends stuff. Edge sharpness would be first priority as I don't mind grain, but would prefer to keep the grain under control if possible.

 

[02Pilot]

I've had decent results pushing to 1600 with Caffenol C-L, semi-stand for 70min @ 20C.

 

[TheTrailTog]

Thanks 02, I'll check that out

 

[Nathan King]

Ilfotec DDX works extremely well and controls the grain nicely. Many developers will not give full speed where DDX will.

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

I don't push film much not liking the often-needed sacrifice to smooth and long tonality and increased contrast preferring to use a faster lens when possible or some moderate flash. But then again pushing can bring an desired look too, even if opposite to what I usually want.

That said I've found some terrific results using Diafine developer. HP5+ should be shot at 1000 with it. Great thing is Diafine can be mixed (A & B) and stored in brown glass bottles and used over and over again. You do need to eventually top off the A liquid however. Consider going that a try.

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

Delete. Flickr link not working.

 

[TheTrailTog]

Ilfotec DDX works extremely well and controls the grain nicely. Many developers will not give full speed where DDX will.

I had thought about trying DDX, but thought I saw someone mention before that it was primarily geared toward slower speed films. Perhaps I misinterpreted the post? I'll have to give it a second look.

I don't push film much not liking the often-needed sacrifice to smooth and long tonality and increased contrast preferring to use a faster lens when possible or some moderate flash. But then again pushing can bring an desired look too, even if opposite to what I usually want.

That said I've found some terrific results using Diafine developer. HP5+ should be shot at 1000 with it. Great thing is Diafine can be mixed (A & B) and stored in brown glass bottles and used over and over again. You do need to eventually top off the A liquid however. Consider going that a try.

What kind of shelf life does it have. One of my other concerns is that I will only be shooting a roll every 2 or 3 weeks on average. That's part of the reason I keep some Rodinal and HC-110 around. They're versatile and keep forever.

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

What kind of shelf life does it have. One of my other concerns is that I will only be shooting a roll every 2 or 3 weeks on average. That's part of the reason I keep some Rodinal and HC-110 around. They're versatile and keep forever.

Reports say 1 year+.

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

Here's one example of Tri-X at 1600 in Diafine, I know it's not HP5+ but it does pretty good. Some people dislike it, but like too many opinions on many films and developers I think it's often due to people who have not spent enough time to dial them in:


SF downtown night Rolleiflex2-8Planar Tri-X at1600 Diafine 03-2007 VS 006 by Richard Sintchak, on Flickr

 

[TheTrailTog]

I hear you about too many opinions/options. If all I had in the cabinet right now was just 1 of the above and I wasn't about to order some other supplies, I never even would have asked and just used what I had...lol I started another thread about book recommendations to learn more about developers. Think I need to do some reading so I can actually understand the whole process better and learn how different developers work and their characteristics. Time to move beyond just looking up film and developer combos on massdev.

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

I hear you about too many opinions/options. If all I had in the cabinet right now was just 1 of the above and I wasn't about to order some other supplies, I never even would have asked and just used what I had...lol I started another thread about book recommendations to learn more about developers. Think I need to do some reading so I can actually understand the whole process better and learn how different developers work and their characteristics. Time to move beyond just looking up film and developer combos on massdev.

Reading is good, very good. Experience is better. If I had to do it all over again after shooting and developing for almost 50 years (and this is just me in the way I like to learn and do) I'd do a lot more and hesitate a lot less waiting until I was "ready". I learn best through things slowly seeping into my brain through experience, and while I love learning by reading books and forums and such I hate taking detailed notes and records while doing. Hate it. Again just me. But one thing I have learned: practically ALL films and developers are capable of TERRIFIC results.

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

Two more Diafine examples for ya', then I'll shut up. Both with Tri-X rated at 1600 in one of my Rolleiflexes. Quite dark and shady under the redwoods here. Performed beautifully and gave me MUCH wider tonal range than I've been able to get by "pushing" with Rodinal or HC-110:

 

[TheTrailTog]

No need to shut up...lol Some great shots and I'm enjoying the chat I know what you mean about virtually all film and developer combos will yield a good result. In a final print of average size, I would be hard pressed to pick out what film and developer combo was what. I guess I'm just getting to the point where I can do the basics with my eyes closed, so to speak, and now I want to take it to the next level. I want to understand what does what and why and begin to fine tune things.

 

[Roger Cole]

I love Tri-X in Diafine but back when I tried it HP5+ yielded about 2/3 - 1 stop less effective speed. Granted that has been a very long time though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk and 100% recycled electrons - because I care.

 

[nwilkins]

like others here I have found that Tri-X works much better than HP5 in Diafine. I have found 1000 is ideal but 1600 works fine with Tri-X. For HP5 it seems more like 640 is ideal and 800 works. Tri-X at 1000 has nicer tonality and less grain than HP5 at 800. It does seem to me like Tri-X is the ideal film for Diafine.

 

[Roger Cole]

With the current incarnation of Tri-X I find that 1600 in Diafine is fine by sunlight (such as heavy overcast) but 1000 or even 800 is much better by tungsten. I find the same thing with TMY in general, that it loses a lot of speed under tungsten. Before someone points out the response curves that don't agree, I realize that. But with my meters that's what I find. It could well be my meters.

But the OP has HP5+ and is asking about it. It's known for pushing well, but I suspect Diafine isn't the developer for that (Acufine might work well though.) For HP5+ I'd try Microphen or DD-X. But of what the OP has I've no experience and not much more knowledge of Ilfosol, Rodinal I would definitely not use for this purpose if I had other choices. I've seen some good results in HC110 but don't have the times. My choice of those would be HC110.

 

[Lamar]

I have good results with HP5 pushed to EI 1600 in XTOL. Here is a link to some of my HP5 shots. https://www.flickr.com/photos/lamarlamb/sets/72157648745918370 Many of them are pushed, the football game and submarine shots specifically.

 

[moltogordo]

I used D76 (or ID 11) for all pushing, as recommended by Steve Anchell in the Film Developer Cookbook. I could get results on HP5 even at 3200 with it, but highlights were blown and shadow detail scant. But the image was there.

In an updated version, he recommends XTol, which is really kinda-sorta D76 on steroids - it gives any film about a half stop gain, is sharper and has better shadow detail then D76. I tried HP5 at 1600 and it was very good indeed, and would now recommend it as an excellent choice for pushing.

Tri-X used to handle pushing better than any other film but I can't speak for the new stuff. I've tried it only at box speed, and it's not like the old Tri-X. More like a "me too" ASA 400 emulsion.

My usual developer for HP5 (my favorite film) is HC110 at 1:63, but I really don't like it as a pushing developer at any dilution for this film. Over 800, I've had consistently better results with a solvent developer.

I really thing the best answer was given above . . . . for these snapshots of friends and family, get yourself a roll of Delta 3200. The results will be better than HP5 pushed. Pushing is really just underexposing and overdeveloping, which always leads to excessive contrast and blown highights. Best to use the fastest film you can get your hands on.

 

[Xmas]

I only use 400 ISO with

Rodinal stand 1:100 or
Microphen or ID68 stock

Only have a /1.4 lens...

HP5+ and Tx both ok at that

Foma400 needs 250

 

[flavio81]

D76 or Microphen. Microphen is better. Both are good.