What films did you shoot most recently?

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Curved Wall

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mikecnichols

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Mike, keep it from the hoarders!

Holy crap....so, there was a $3 off coupon for UltraMax this month, so with that and discount, I paid 31 cents a 4pk!!! That's less than 8 cents a roll....I'm so stoked. Too bad it's Kodak and not Fuji. Dates are good though...expire late 2012.

On a side note, I was given a Kodak VR35 K12 camera today, so I may use some of these rolls in it and test it out.
 

benjiboy

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I've been shooting 120 Fuji Reala in my Mamiya TLR of a four year old little boy who's my nieces son.
 

Athiril

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120 Portra 400, last roll I pushed to 25600 for kicks.
 

Athiril

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Just shot some Agfa Vista 200 with the 12-24mm.. 200mm prime and 50mm prime with some close up macro.. going to go process it now :D

How did you process it and how did it come out?

Crappy but relatively excellent considering its 25,600.

I did a 6 stop push in C-41, details on the flickr page.

New Portra 400 @ 25600 by athiril, on Flickr
 

dnjl

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Two rolls of Fomapan Creative. Lovely stuff. Also some Agfa Vista Plus and a roll of Ferrania Solaris 200, and a roll of XP2 Super.
 

Sirius Glass

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Expired Tri-X 135 as single frame
 

2F/2F

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Just shot some Agfa Vista 200 with the 12-24mm.. 200mm prime and 50mm prime with some close up macro.. going to go process it now :D



Crappy but relatively excellent considering its 25,600.

I did a 6 stop push in C-41, details on the flickr page.

New Portra 400 @ 25600 by athiril, on Flickr

It is not a terrible result, considering how underexposed it was.

How did you meter the shots? If it was with a reflected meter in twilight, chances are that your meter helped you out by telling you to overexpose a bit. That might have given you an extra stop of exposure, or more.

I am also not sure that 7:30 is a true 6 stop push, or that such a push is even possible. A true six stop push would take a tone exposed at three stops under middle gray and give it the density of a tone exposed at three stops over middle gray. It's just not possible to get any film to do that. But you can jack up the contrast as much as possible and print to lighten the dark tones. In other words, I think you could go longer with the developer time and get an even more usable result.

And if you didn't use an incident meter, I think it is worth seeing what happens when you do. Or a gray card with a reflected meter, with the addition of half stop of exposure.
 

nworth

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I did get around to shooting several rolls of Ektar 100 over the past couple of months. It is a bit harsh for my tastes, but it might be useful in southern Utah or Arizona. I'm back to using Portra.
 

Diapositivo

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Another roll of Ferrania Solaris 135/12 100 ISO, colour negative, to test an old Voigtlaender frankencamera (body of Vito C, lens of Vito CL or Vito CLR) which works good. The first roll was lost by the laboratory. I was given back a roll which was totally unexposed. The roll was a Kodak 135/36, I handed in a Ferrania 135/12, so that was definitely not my roll. I gave it back but my original roll never came back. Unbelievable those things can happen in the age of bar codes.

Fabrizio
 

Chirs Gregory

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I've been mostly working with Tri-X and Plus-X, but recently while cleaning my closet I found an unexposed roll of supermarket-brand 400 color, which I shot and then developed using regular B&W chemistry. I have no idea how long I've had the roll, but I'm pretty sure I bought it back in '00-'01. I say this because I also recently found my old Olympus Pen, loaded with the same type of film, and I hadn't used it since 2001.

It worked pretty well aside from some really wicked grain. (Oh, and the D-76 was light green when I poured it out. :blink: Maybe that was the antihalation backing coming off? I don't develop C-41 so I have no idea.)
 

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antaios

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Last sunny Sunday, I shot a roll (120) Kodak Portra 160NC and after that a roll of Kodak Portra 400NC (120). Also, in the same day I exposed 7 sheets 4X5" of Kodak Portra 400NC. Now I'm waiting to see the results after the development...
 

Markster

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I had a couple family members take part in something noteworthy, brought the camera... But it was dark. I tried to be unobtrusive so I left the flash off.

I had a fresh roll of Ektar 100 in it. Seeing the results of the other person on these forums pushing that to ISO 400 made me give it a try.

The annoying thing is that this was born of necessity. Then after a certain point I switched to flash anyways. Now I'm stuck the rest of the 36ex roll (about 26ex left!) pushed to 400.

So I'll be shooting Ektar 100 pushed to 400.
 

hpulley

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I've been mostly working with Tri-X and Plus-X, but recently while cleaning my closet I found an unexposed roll of supermarket-brand 400 color, which I shot and then developed using regular B&W chemistry. I have no idea how long I've had the roll, but I'm pretty sure I bought it back in '00-'01. I say this because I also recently found my old Olympus Pen, loaded with the same type of film, and I hadn't used it since 2001.

It worked pretty well aside from some really wicked grain. (Oh, and the D-76 was light green when I poured it out. :blink: Maybe that was the antihalation backing coming off? I don't develop C-41 so I have no idea.)

I find most Kodak color films and T-Max too often has a color in the developer, sensitization dyes I think.
 

Gaga

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120: Hp5 and Tri-x. Although, I now dislike HP5
35mm: I shot a roll of Hp5 and some other roll this morning and sent them off.
 

MattKing

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