What films did you shoot most recently?

[Klainmeister]

You know, I wasn't a huge fan of Ektar 100, I could never get rid of the blue-ish hue without affecting the yellows. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but until then, Velvia and Acros are my favorites.

 

[lxdude]

You know, I wasn't a huge fan of Ektar 100, I could never get rid of the blue-ish hue without affecting the yellows. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but until then, Velvia and Acros are my favorites.

So you combine them to get color negatives?

 

[Markster]

Ektar (from my own testing) desaturates rapidly with over exposure. At 100 ISO I did not notice too much of a blue tint. Reds were still good, browns showed up, etc... Is it possible you over-exposed it (like many online reviews suggest, did you run it at ISO 65), leading to a desaturation and making it look bluer than normal?

Just curious.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Generally it is not a good idea to overexpose or underexpose color negative films. The results are generally suboptimal. PE has discussed this so many times that he gets blue in the face when the subject comes up. Do an APUG search.

Steve

 

[mikecnichols]

I finally finished my first roll of Ektar 100 (35mm). Hopefully, I will develop it this afternoon.

 

[mikecnichols]

Here are some of my first shots on Ektar.

 

[John_Nikon_F]

Finished a roll of T-Max P3200. Now got a roll of Ektar 100 loaded up in the old F2AS...

-J

 

[hpulley]

Finished another roll of Delta 3200 in the Yashicaflex. Love this combo! Souped it in DD-X, 14:00 @23C, still seems to take too long for me. That was the last of my DD-X, have some HC-110 to use up so I will return to that for a while as it builds density much easier in that film though at the expense of larger grain. If I don't like the HC-110 grain again I'll have to try Microphen, XTOL or T-Max to see if I can build density more easily with small grain.

Also finished packs of FP-100B and FP-100C in the Mamiya RB67's NPC Land Polaroid back and the Polaroid Land Camera Automatic 100.

 

[hpulley]

Then today, finished a roll of Delta 100 135-36 in the Canon TX and rolls of FP4+ and HP5+ in the Mamiya RB67 Pro S after a nice fluffy snowfall.

However, my scarf or coat somehow caught the back release slide on the Mamiya for the last couple of shots of HP5+ so I'll have to see if the whole roll is ruined or just the last couple of shots :-( Why there are interlocks for everything else BUT the little slider that opens the film back I don't know. I can't remove the dark slide or take a picture unless everything is perfect but sure, open the whole film back, go right ahead!

 

[Perry Way]

Looks like a fun thread, I'll join in. Have a new camera, of course I have to test every film I use currently to see the results of the Scheider Xenar 150mm lens on this Linhof Technika (4x5) that is now mine. Found out the lens is from 1965 to 1967 and the camera is from 1956. So, yesterday, first day of full day of shooting I shot Delta 100 which looks awesome as I have finished all those sheets. I also shot HP5, Arista 100 EDU, Adox CHS Art 25, and also 4 sheets of Ektachrome E100VS. I'm about to develop the HP5, Arista and Adox. If they look anywhere near the look of these sheets of Delta 100 this Technika will become my every day camera. I'm fixing to rework the inner partitions arrangement in my backpack to fit my Technika and my Zero Image 4x5, two extra lenses for the Technika and 10-20 4x5 film holders. Life is good!

 

[2F/2F]

Finished another roll of Delta 3200 in the Yashicaflex. Love this combo! Souped it in DD-X, 14:00 @23C, still seems to take too long for me. That was the last of my DD-X, have some HC-110 to use up so I will return to that for a while as it builds density much easier in that film though at the expense of larger grain. If I don't like the HC-110 grain again I'll have to try Microphen, XTOL or T-Max to see if I can build density more easily with small grain.

Also finished packs of FP-100B and FP-100C in the Mamiya RB67's NPC Land Polaroid back and the Polaroid Land Camera Automatic 100.

I'd try DD-X at a stronger dilution.

But you also have to remember that if you rate this film at 3200, it is being underexposed across the board by 2-2/3 stops. You also should know that t-grained films look thinner to the eye than they will print. I don't know why, but they do.

 

[dnjl]

Finished a roll of HP5+ last week and loaded a roll of XP2 yesterday.

 

[Black Dog]

Mike-those are some impressive pics you have there!

 

[hpulley]

I'd try DD-X at a stronger dilution.

But you also have to remember that if you rate this film at 3200, it is being underexposed across the board by 2-2/3 stops. You also should know that t-grained films look thinner to the eye than they will print. I don't know why, but they do.

I asked Ilford and they didn't recommend a higher dilution but it would be worth a shot if I buy another bottle. It is also expensive for me unless I'm buying a bunch of other stuff, powder is much cheaper to ship than a litre of liquid and NO ONE at all stocks DD-X around here.

You're right, I do find that I can usually manage to print the thin negatives but I'd rather have good negatives! I'm processing as the 12500 time for images I shoot indoors, perhaps the meters are fooled by the lighting but really I'm shooting hand held as short a shutter speed, wide open so I can't shoot any longer. I'm shooting people and pets so it isn't like I can use a tripod, that's why I'm shooting 3200 in the first place!

I know it is a push at 3200 since it is really 1000 ISO, but that's how it's supposed to be used. I like how it looks so perhaps I should just use it like that, just seems like a loong time to soup it. The grain is still good after all that time but my next roll will be in HC-110 1+15 so I'll see if I hate the grain and go screaming back to DD-X or what.

To the point: finished a roll of Delta 3200 135-36. So now I have four rolls to soup: Delta 3200 135-36, Delta 100 135-36, FP4+ 120, HP5+ 120. Will be souping it all in HC-110 unless I decide to mix up some Microphen since I have a couple of packets of that around too.

 

[2F/2F]

First, let me say that I said the film is 2-2/3 stops under at 3200 when I meant 1-2/3 stops.

If light sources ("practicals") are in your frame, they will throw off your meter severely. For low light shooting in contrasty lighting, I'd suggest a spot meter, or a camera with a spot meter built in.

I also was not recommending a higher dilution, but a lower dilution. Use it at double strength, in other words. But as you said, that is expensive.

But I would do a controlled test first. It'll let you know if the film is really coming out flat with that combo (which it should not do at 14 minutes), or if it is just the lamps in the frame causing underexposure in addition to that caused by uprating the film.

This is one of the dangers of metering for Delta 3200 with the meter set higher than 1000. If you err on the side of underexposure due to an in-camera meter being fooled (as they usually are, at least a bit, in every picture), you are really going into the hole, because you are already underexposing by almost two stops just by rating it that way. Say your exposure is off by a stop due to a bright light in the frame. Well, then your picture is nearly 3 stops underexposed over all.

When metering with the film, I set the meter to 1000. This does not mean that I always expose it properly or that I don't push development. I'll usually make an exposure that is the equivalent of rating it at 2000 or 4000. But I set the meter at 1000 because I like to know where things will actually fall on the film when I make a certain exposure.

But most of the time with this film, I am using it to dig anything I can out of light that is really bad. So I don't even bother metering. I just shoot whatever I can get away with hand held at the time and develop based on the lighting...and if I am using a meter, it is really just to see where things are falling and read the contrast of the scene to let me know how much to push the film.

 

[mikecnichols]

Mike-those are some impressive pics you have there!

Thanks. I did a lot of bracketing to test out the film. The darkroom shots were both shot at f5.6 for 2 secs. They were also shot at f2.8 for 1/2 sec. The ones at f5.6 for 2 secs are much sharper and the coloring is more balanced. I really learned the limits of my Chinar 28mm (my only non-Nikkor lens).

 

[hpulley]

...But most of the time with this film, I am using it to dig anything I can out of light that is really bad. So I don't even bother metering. I just shoot whatever I can get away with hand held at the time and develop based on the lighting...and if I am using a meter, it is really just to see where things are falling and read the contrast of the scene to let me know how much to push the film.

The last roll which turned out very well was shot with a Yashicaflex which has no built-in meter. I agree that built-in meters are often fooled and I'm still learning to ignore them when possible.

In this case, I metered (externally) once and then used judgement from there but perhaps I really am underexposing so much that 12500 development times are correct. They seem long to me but I like the result, good grain, good contrast, nice density so why complain? Because I thought I was exposing for at least a stop or two brighter than 12500 and yet I must develop for that level to get the negatives I want, that's all. They print great so I should just be satisfied and buy another bottle of DD-X really now that I've figured it out, though I had figured out good density settings for HC-110 before this as well and found it, as I said, much quicker to build density but a bit worse for grain and higher contrast than I want though that can be dealt with in printing.

 

[Markster]

I can tell the next roll I'll shoot...

I just got 3 rolls of Ektar 100 in the mail

 

[cjbecker]

all I shoot is hp5 and portra 400. I might expand and get some portra 160

 

[kb3lms]

Working on 3 rolls of HP5 right now.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Porta 800 120

 

[dehk]

Lucky SHD 100 , and some Tri X as usual.

 

[Black Dog]

Portra 800-must try some of that...

 

[mikecnichols]

I'm gonna get 4pk 800 Kodak UltraMax for about $3 (maybe less)....I'm thinking I should just buy the rest of our stock.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Mike, keep it from the hoarders!