Got a chrome Nikkormat FT2's meter working and converted it to the early FTn wind lever and self-timer lever. Updated my black FTn to late model specs, using the parts from the FT2.
-J
-J
What did you fix today?
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There has been an annoying silver fleck inside the viewing lens of my Rolleinar for the longest time. Most likely it was a bit of aluminum shaved off the threads last time it was serviced. (Gord McArthur, RIP 
)With my new lens tool, I managed to dissasemble, clean and reassemble it without scratching, denting or otherwise making it unuseable. (don't underestimate my ability to cause untold calamity by the most innocent of intentions. :rolleyes: )
I celebrated by firing of a few macros of details around my work room.
)With my new lens tool, I managed to dissasemble, clean and reassemble it without scratching, denting or otherwise making it unuseable. (don't underestimate my ability to cause untold calamity by the most innocent of intentions. :rolleyes: )I celebrated by firing of a few macros of details around my work room.
My AGFA B2 Speedex had a shot shutter. Nothing I could do would fix it with the broken arms inside the shutter assembly. So I took the shutter and glass out and put a pinhole in it's place. Since the old shutter arms were broken, I put aluminum foil on the back of the front lens pair and painted the front and back of the glass black and have it as a screw on and off shutter/cap, like the original cameras did with the lens caps. I can't wait to see how it works, so I have a roll of 35mm spooled on 120 paper in it now for testing.
Wish me luck!
Michael
Wish me luck!
Michael
It's a long weekend here, so I spent it getting my new Mamiya M645 up to scratch.
Let's see. In no particular order:
The gear train between the film insert and the frame counter was sticking, so the frame counter didn't reset reliably when I pulled the insert out. I took the gear train apart, cleaned it, greased the pivot points with light lithium grease and reassembled it. Now it works perfectly. While there I took the opportunity to clean and lubricate the rest of the gear train.
The seals around the film door had turned to mush. Cleaned the goo off with lighter fluid and kimwipes, and replaced the seals with foam courtesy of Jon Goodman.
The aperture coupling lever had a little bit of a bend, making it so the lens didn't stop down during an exposure, which was easy to fix.
The baffle under the lens mount was scratched. I stripped off the paint and repainted it with matte black lacquer, oven baked to ensure good durability.
The mirror, focusing screen, and lens above the focusing screen were all dirty (mainly with goo from the deteriorating mirror bump pads and flocking. I washed them in isopropyl and distilled water and refitted them.
The flocking had turned to mush (see my thread about flocking). This was probably the most time-consuming job. I cleaned it out with a bamboo scraper, lighter fluid, kimwipes, and isopropyl. I then painted the exposed surfaces matte black, and finally fabricated new flocking from black card, which was held in place with neat gummy double sided tape (from micro tools - they sell it for fitting leatherette). Getting the pieces just the right shape to clear the pivots etc for the mirror was a challenge. It took (counts) four trial pieces for one of the sides before I was satisfied with the fit.
The mirror bump pads were gone - cleaned the goo out and replaced with foam from my trusty Jon Goodman kit.
The leatherette on the front was scuffed, and didn't survive removal to remove the front cover. I made a new piece with leatherette from Micro tools, which matches the original stuff remarkably well.
So that's about it. It's been a real hoot, and I think it's just as good now as the day it came out of the factory.
Let's see. In no particular order:
The gear train between the film insert and the frame counter was sticking, so the frame counter didn't reset reliably when I pulled the insert out. I took the gear train apart, cleaned it, greased the pivot points with light lithium grease and reassembled it. Now it works perfectly. While there I took the opportunity to clean and lubricate the rest of the gear train.
The seals around the film door had turned to mush. Cleaned the goo off with lighter fluid and kimwipes, and replaced the seals with foam courtesy of Jon Goodman.
The aperture coupling lever had a little bit of a bend, making it so the lens didn't stop down during an exposure, which was easy to fix.
The baffle under the lens mount was scratched. I stripped off the paint and repainted it with matte black lacquer, oven baked to ensure good durability.
The mirror, focusing screen, and lens above the focusing screen were all dirty (mainly with goo from the deteriorating mirror bump pads and flocking. I washed them in isopropyl and distilled water and refitted them.
The flocking had turned to mush (see my thread about flocking). This was probably the most time-consuming job. I cleaned it out with a bamboo scraper, lighter fluid, kimwipes, and isopropyl. I then painted the exposed surfaces matte black, and finally fabricated new flocking from black card, which was held in place with neat gummy double sided tape (from micro tools - they sell it for fitting leatherette). Getting the pieces just the right shape to clear the pivots etc for the mirror was a challenge. It took (counts) four trial pieces for one of the sides before I was satisfied with the fit.
The mirror bump pads were gone - cleaned the goo out and replaced with foam from my trusty Jon Goodman kit.
The leatherette on the front was scuffed, and didn't survive removal to remove the front cover. I made a new piece with leatherette from Micro tools, which matches the original stuff remarkably well.
So that's about it. It's been a real hoot, and I think it's just as good now as the day it came out of the factory.
OP
OP
Wow thats quite alot of work for a mamiya m645. Please post a pic so we can ooh and aah
Here's one showing the deteriorated flocking:
And after cleaning it up:
And after cleaning it up:
I just dismantled and cleaned a VERY foggy fungussy zuiko 50mm. Although it comes apart easily, I used the diagram here as a backup. Easy-peasy. Cleaned with Nivea Creme - way cheaper than Ponds cold cream and pretty much the same mix, fingertip, cotton pad, cotton bud, Zippo fuel and, finally, a microfibre cloth from my optician.
I'm also working on an Ikoflex II/III (852/16). I've CLA'd the shutter and both lenses, I'm working on the rewind mech and I'm waiting for the mirror to be resilvered.
I'm also working on an Ikoflex II/III (852/16). I've CLA'd the shutter and both lenses, I'm working on the rewind mech and I'm waiting for the mirror to be resilvered.
Great work, Suzy. I have a 1000s with a frame spacing problem. I've got the service instructions, but at the moment, I'm too scared to take it apart. I'm still testing it with another film holder. I also have another 1000s. I love it - great cameras!
In case anybody wants or needs the M645 / M645 1000S service instructions they can be found here. I can't remember if you need to register, but I have, it's free and they've never pestered me. Dead Link Removed. If the link goes dead, you're welcome to contact me and I'll email you a copy.
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Yesterday I "accidentally" fixed my 1984 Sony clock radio, which I knocked off a windowsill and "broke" last week. I opened it up intending to turn it into a pinhole camera, and then realized it was repairable. Woops!
Dead Link Removed
Dead Link Removed
OP
OP
I have a similar vintage clock radio that has worked flawlessly for decades.
it has big red LED letters. A switch choose among 2 different times. And its finished in that wonderful faux-wood plastic common of the period.
I've bought my daighters a couple of clock-radio/mini-boom-boxes last year. They lasted about 6 months.
(lol neat misspelling.. combination of 'daughters' and the southern 'taters'... = daighters.. I'll have to start calling them that)
it has big red LED letters. A switch choose among 2 different times. And its finished in that wonderful faux-wood plastic common of the period.
I've bought my daighters a couple of clock-radio/mini-boom-boxes last year. They lasted about 6 months.
(lol neat misspelling.. combination of 'daughters' and the southern 'taters'... = daighters.. I'll have to start calling them that)
bump....
and last night, I completed my first "Fix" on a camera! It was small but i still accomplished it.
I opened up the Compur-Rapid shutter of my Kodak Retina II to relube it and clean it. It was another one of those "take apart, shrug and think 'Huh!', and put it back together" type of projects. A lesson was to be had though! Don't start camera projects at 11:00 pm. My mind don't think too well then. When putting it back together, it took me about 1/2 hour to realize i had the shutter spring hook on sideways. oh well.
and last night, I completed my first "Fix" on a camera! It was small but i still accomplished it.
I opened up the Compur-Rapid shutter of my Kodak Retina II to relube it and clean it. It was another one of those "take apart, shrug and think 'Huh!', and put it back together" type of projects. A lesson was to be had though! Don't start camera projects at 11:00 pm. My mind don't think too well then. When putting it back together, it took me about 1/2 hour to realize i had the shutter spring hook on sideways. oh well.
Bought a Burke&James 5x7 camera a while back that came with a 4x5 reducing back.Used the 4x5 back for the first time last week and discovered it was warped .Filled in the corners that had a gap with some black tape,test it out tomorrow to see if it was a good fix.
Reattached the dial on a Pentax V spot meter. used some Lock Tite this time....
Dang those nuts are small!
Dang those nuts are small!
OP
OP
My T70 motor was sounding sick. It stopped accepting film past frame 9 or so.
I opened up the bottom an found a row of plastic gears was gunked up.
I cleaned the gears with a toothbrush so they would turn easily.
I did not delve into the camera further but this seemed to improve things.
I opened up the bottom an found a row of plastic gears was gunked up.
I cleaned the gears with a toothbrush so they would turn easily.
I did not delve into the camera further but this seemed to improve things.
OP
OP
Cleaned out fungus from a sigma 600mm mirror lens. This is an easy lens to work on. Push the rubber grip forward about half an inch. peel off the silver tape (save it). an unscrew the lens.
I used vinegar to remove the fungus and acetone for the final clean. Came out clean as a whistle except for a couple of minor spots on the backside of the secondary mirror.
I used vinegar to remove the fungus and acetone for the final clean. Came out clean as a whistle except for a couple of minor spots on the backside of the secondary mirror.
A lot of three Mamiya M645 PD (metered!) finders arrived today, at the bargain basement cost of $16.50. All of them had serious issues, including significant degradation of the silvering where Mamiya had thoughtfully put a foam pad on the top of the prism.
I swapped the good prism from my unmetered finder into the best of the three metered ones, replaced the icky foam, did a pile of cleaning, replaced the double sided tape on the back of the leatherette, selected the nicest bits from the three donor prisms, and now I've got a lovely metered prism for my Mamiya, and a rather large pile of spare parts...
I swapped the good prism from my unmetered finder into the best of the three metered ones, replaced the icky foam, did a pile of cleaning, replaced the double sided tape on the back of the leatherette, selected the nicest bits from the three donor prisms, and now I've got a lovely metered prism for my Mamiya, and a rather large pile of spare parts...
Put some longer alluminium leg sections on an old MPP wood/alluminium tripod. Easy swap for almost identical sized but about 12" longer tube, from a local B+Q. Rubber ends and spikes pushed in the new tube well. I found the MPP annoyingly short, and a bit flimsy. Better in both respects now. Looks more like fishing gear now though.
I've just taken 3 problematic Olympus 35 RCs and created 2 fully working cameras and one "franken camera" with the worst of all of the parts (e.g. broken battery wire, broken meter coil, scratched lens, bad light seals, missing speed dial, bent top, scratchy wind mechanism, missing hot shoe, missing self timer lever.) However, the shutter and aperture still work in manual (I hacked up a shutter knob out of plastic) and the RF works and you can use the advance lever even if it sounds bad - I bet if I fixed up the seals, it would still take decent photos. Perhaps I need to find an ugly camera contest....
Finally fitted the replacement exposure lock button onto my Nikon F3. Thanks once again to Unclemack. His advice worked a treat.
Series B 3.25 x 4.25 Graflex SLR which needed (IMHO) a roll back. Problem: the darn backs are expensive. I found that a 9x12 Rollex back that came on a plate camera was just about the right size, as long as I added a couple of bits of 1/4" wood along the edges and padded it out from the camera by 3mm, since the set back from camera back to film plane on the wooden holders is about 5mm and on the Rollex it's 2mm. An old mouse pad, a few minutes with an x-acto knife, no damage to the camera or the holder and Bingo!
Sometimes the magic works!
Sometimes the magic works!
Spent a couple hours futzing with my FM2n, replacing the accessory shoe and figuring out why it didn't work, even after replacing. Finally got it working, so reassembled the camera. Probably going to get another top cover that's in better shape, since there's a ding that prevents the multiple exposure lever from returning to its normal position on its own. Also need to get it foamed and have someone get the DOF preview lever unstuck, so it'll move easily.
-J
-J
Not fixed, but got a stripped screw loose on a Ricoh 500 that needs the inside of its lens cleaned. lots of Bolt Off and slowly screwing at little bumps that turned until it came loose.
Name and outer most rings off, but I'm stumped on how to move forward. Success for another day I suppose.
Name and outer most rings off, but I'm stumped on how to move forward. Success for another day I suppose.
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