If that's possible. I mainly shoot landscapes in the mountains, and I have never used incident metering. The light on the mountain across the valley is almost certainly different than the light where I am.
That’s right. You take that camera to subject position .
Than incident metering isn’t the best method in that situation.If that's possible. I mainly shoot landscapes in the mountains, and I have never used incident metering. The light on the mountain across the valley is almost certainly different than the light where I am.
[Profisix] The distance between markings on the scale is literally the size of the pointer that you allign the scale width. Easy to get 1/3 stop out or more if not careful. Otherwise its a very sensitive and responsive meter and the null metering technique of centering the needle is quick and easy in practice. I'll probably keep it until one of us dies.
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If you don;t own a grey card,cut the back off a breakfast serial packet and meter off what was the inside surface That is generally close enough. E...
Is there any middle ground between Sunny 16 and Einstein's Theory of Exposure? Asking for a friend.
Unless you are shooting Beyond the Zone System, in which case you would use an incident meter to determine the scene brightness range. ISO or meter reading in terms of aperture or shutter speed is irrelevant, on the number of stops between desired shadow and highlights.
If that's possible. I mainly shoot landscapes in the mountains, and I have never used incident metering. The light on the mountain across the valley is almost certainly different than the light where I am.
You do not 'need to use incident' meter to read shadows and highlights for Zone System, the methodology is appropriate to reflected light readings...for example, a black tuxedo read as Zone II and exposed accordingly should result in black tux with crease/wrinkles visible (if present)...'shadow with detail'
Or bracket as Graham Nash famously said.Stephen Stills offers the best metering suggestion.
Well there’s a rose in a fisted glove and the eagle flies with the dove.
And if you can’t meter from the light they’re in, use the light you’re with.
In zone you use a reflective, spotmeter is preferred, in Beyond the Zone System that Phil Davis used an indecent meter...
You need the system not just the meter. Fair warning, Phil Davis's system was designed for sheet film, he stated that BTZS has little advantage for roll film. My thinking is that within the limitations of fixed development times for all exposures on a single roll of film, like the zone system will provide a printable negative.
And that is why I passed up an opportunity to go with my coworkers for a class in Yosemite taught by Ansel Adams in the early 1970's.
Or bracket as Graham Nash famously said.
Apologies. I understand what you mean now. I generally only use the outer compensation wheel when I am using the Tele metering adapter which which requires different exposure offsets depending on whether you meter at 7.5 or 15 degrees. The Profispot, of course doesn't require any compensation to be set on the meter.My point was that at many cameras (e.g. AE-1) amd many handheld meters one needs to reset the ASA setting to compensate for certain lighting effects or filters.
Better designed cameras and meters have an override setting at the ASA scale or elswhere to do so.
At these one only needs to reset the ASA scale when changing between films of different sensitivity.
The Profisix does not need any compensation setting for its accessories as long as these got those electrical contacts. But it also takes those accessories purely mechanical attached.I generally only use the outer compensation wheel when I am using the Tele metering adapter which which requires different exposure offsets depending on whether you meter at 7.5 or 15 degrees. The Profispot, of course doesn't require any compensation to be set on the meter.
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