Imagine that!
Originally Posted by Stephen Benskin View Post
The first thing one needs to understand is that the ISO speed is the actual speed of the film.
That is to say it is not arbitrary, purposefully overrated by manufacturers, a guesstimate, not the "real" speed that has to be personalized, or a value arrive at by scientific means and does not have to do with reality.
Originally Posted by Stephen Benskin View Post
The first thing one needs to understand is that the ISO speed is the actual speed of the film.
That is to say it is not arbitrary, purposefully overrated by manufacturers, a guesstimate, not the "real" speed that has to be personalized, or a value arrive at by scientific means and does not have to do with reality.
The following said with all due respect, but...........
Ralph is not talking film speed when he says to rate the film 2/3 stop higher. He is talking about exposure.
Of course! Rating the film differently than the ISO figure is all about tweaking one's exposure, no one said differently, I don't think so anyway. Why you insist on informing all of us that when we rate our film a different speed, then we are somehow misunderstanding the whole concept of film speed or confusing film speed with EI or whatever-----is mind boggling to me. The ZS, flawed as it may be, in it's bubble gum sensitometry, is a very practical method of applied photographic technique. That, with all due respect, is something I can take to the field and use.
I'm sorry, but you’ve totally misinterpreted what I was saying. I never said anything about densities below fb+f. The 0.29 log units was log-H units (not density units) below the exposure required to make 0.10 density above film base plus fog.
My apologies.
As far as I know, no one has ever said that 0.10 is the minimum useful density in any scientific paper. It's only in popular texts.
Pardon my "simpleton" point of view, but I invite you to come to my darkroom and put a negative density of less than .09 onto my paper and we will see just how useful and practical it is. If I can't put it on my paper, it don't mean "jack" (intentional poor grammer).
But there's a noticeable and quite useful difference at 0.1, the commonly accepted practical threshhold of a film's sensitivity to light, and the commonly accepted and very practical determination of a working man's film speed. Perhaps that won't be found in any scientific paper either or the Delta-X equation but it does quite well to define one's personal film speed, or very own EI, or "working" film speed, or whatever may be the term that is acceptable in the scientific papers.
I do not necessarily doubt all that you say and the apparent mental acumen with which you say it. But to all the "newbs", just remember to "expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights", that will never change with the 'negative' film that is in your cameras.
Stephen
I cannot entirely agree. I agree, the ISO speed is not arbitrary, it is not purposely overrated by manufacturers and it is not a guesstimate, but it has to be personalized, because the ISO speed is determined by methods and standards, which may differ from what the photographer wants to achieve.
This is the reason to conduct personal film testing and the need for EI vs ISO. And, since these personal test consistently return a speed that is lower than ISO, the ISO standard seems to differ from what photographers want to achieve, and therefore, it differs with customer 'reality', which is an unavoidable fact. How can ISO know what developer I'm using?
This is not a criticism towards the ISO speed, method or the people who put it together. The ISO speed is a valuable comparative measure, but it is not the all-encompassing answer of the actual film speed. For that, the photographer needs to do his or her own testing.
There is film speed and there is personal taste in exposure or personal experience with exposure (EI), but it shouldn't be considered film speed.
Definitely metering technique, but I often wonder how much modern shutters really have to do with any variation or how much testing people actually do to compensate for variations in shutter speeds. If you think about it, you would have to test each shutter speed in order to determine the variation from setting to setting. How many people do that, therefore, how many people actually incorporate shutter variation into their personal testing? How many people do a test for each of their lenses too?There is also compensation for metering technique and/or errors in shutter speed (although this may come under the personal experience heading).
Steve.
Definitely metering technique, but I often wonder how much modern shutters really have to do with any variation
If you think about it, you would have to test each shutter speed in order to determine the variation from setting to setting. How many people do that, therefore, how many people actually incorporate shutter variation into their personal testing?
CPorter,
So, your argument is about how far we should dumb theory down? If you want to argue about what works, why not just go with Sunny 16 and call it a night? I'm talking about the CONCEPT of film speed and you are countering with what works in a practical manor. Heck, a disposable camera works. (We could actually have a good theoretical discussion as to why a disposable camera works in most situations.) If you only like posts containing practical shooting suggestions then don't read the posts containing theory. It's that simple.
This kind of sounds a lot like the concept behind the inertia speed method which was unanimously rejected by the Ninth International Congress of Photography in 1935 because the inertia speeds varied as much as 500 percent with increasing gamma. It also didnt work because like Berg said, it was a purely academic linking of the speed with an almost entirely arbitrary property of the characteristic curve. It also goes against findings with psychophysics and perception. I've probably just misread your post.
Your wrong and if you actually knew anything about me, you would not suggest such thing about "dumbing theory down."
The original post did not ask for theory, it wanted to know why people rate film different than box speed, what is the reason for doing so, etc... You offered the theory and all its nuances and in so doing proceded to tell (ok, imply) that we all have it misunderstood, we are confusing EI with film speed, with all due respect, it's insulting. That is not a helpful response. The answers I, Ralph and others provided were something of concrete value to the OP where an action could be taken and definite response observed. Whereas yours was offered up in mixing bowl convoluted by theory, and intellectual fantasy. Note that I did not say it was all wrong, but I am saying that it is of little to no value in terms of the OP putting film in his camera and proceeding to expose and develop it.
My post sounds like I'm being a smart ass, but only a little annoyed really, perhaps some of my own doing. I'm off to work and I'm probably overdrawn.
Your wrong and if you actually knew anything about me, you would not suggest such thing about "dumbing theory down."
The original post did not ask for theory, it wanted to know why people rate film different than box speed, what is the reason for doing so, etc... You offered the theory and all its nuances and in so doing proceded to tell (ok, imply) that we all have it misunderstood, we are confusing EI with film speed, with all due respect, it's insulting. That is not a helpful response. The answers I, Ralph and others provided were something of concrete value to the OP where an action could be taken and definite response observed. Whereas yours was offered up in mixing bowl convoluted by theory, and intellectual fantasy. Note that I did not say it was all wrong, but I am saying that it is of little to no value in terms of the OP putting film in his camera and proceeding to expose and develop it.
My post sounds like I'm being a smart ass, but only a little annoyed really, perhaps some of my own doing. I'm off to work and I'm probably overdrawn.
There are about 3 or 4 useful ways of getting at the ISO speed of either (film or paper scales respectively), but common to both is the need to use the straightest part of the curve. Bumps and bows and soft toes and shoulders don't count. They distort the results. Push and pull don't count, as they distort contrast.
Yes, you can get some better result under some conditions by push pull or over or under exposures along with push or pull, but the film was not designed for that, nor was the guideline ISO determined under any of those conditions.
I always learn something in these exchanges. APUG is a great place!
This slightly compresses data and will lose some amount of shadow detail in the print.
I'm sorry if you found it insulting, but there are many people who believe the Zone System testing gives them the "real" or "actual" film speed results and that the ISO is somehow false
The following spoken without ill meaning or otherwise sarcastic enuendos,.
Well, those folks just don't understand the ZS, let them go on their way. ISO is not re-defined in the ZS, only discarded when the proper testing indicates it should be. Hell, my ZS test with TMX and D-76 1:1, gives me the box speed, but not with HC-110.
Also, most photographers believe that film speed is based on density instead of contrast and have never heard of the Delta-X Criterion.
Well, in the ZS, personal EI IS based on neg density of .1 at Zone I. Period. It's not gamma, it's not mean gradient, and it's not contrast index-----it was never meant to be. Simply put, EI in the ZS is not originally intended to be based on any contrast measurement at all. One can determine their EI from from any quantitative measurement of contrast (Ralph L. comes to mind if I remember), but at that point, it becomes a specific user defined application of determining EI, IMO. It is not the original intended method of determining EI wihich is the fixed density point method of 0.1 at ZI. Which is better or more right, I personally don't care and I think it is literally a waste of time to argue it; their different, we all do what we feel works best.
I understand PE has noted that speed should be determined from a straight section of the curve such as using gamma, but I fail to see why that it should. The toe of the curve is vitally important in the ZS, whereas methods that devise a straightline from the curve, ignore the "toe", hence CI, mean G, and gamma.
I personally find it more intuitive to consider the toe of the curve in deciding on a particular film for a particular subject (in my case D-76 1:1 or HC-110). TMX is upswept, i.e., a softer toe with HC-110 and very linear with D-76 1:1, and a particular subject will dictate which of those "toe" responses I prefer.
Chuck
...and this means what, exactly? Your implication is that this is a bad thing. That this is a "bad thing", however, is a "bad thing" to assume. It is a strictly technical argument. Part of the aesthetic characteristics that make each film unique have to do with how it compresses or doesn't compress tones. That is what gives a film the most important part of its character, or "look". If we truly wanted to expose everything on to a straight line, then digital would be the best option. If we truly want all of our films to look similar to one another, then we will consistently place all tones onto the straight line portion of our films' curves. I purposefully expose onto toe or shoulder areas, depending on what I want the picture to look like. I am glad that films compress in the way that they do. It is the main thing that makes them look so much better than digital, IMO, and that differentiates them from other films.
ISO is not re-defined in the ZS, only discarded when the proper testing indicates it should be. Hell, my ZS test with TMX and D-76 1:1, gives me the box speed, but not with HC-110.
Who said ISO is not redefined in the ZS and if it isn't redefined like you say, how would you define proper testing in order to discard ISO? What would then be proper testing? As opposed to what type of improper testing? And what's wrong with comparing the two speed methods? And personal results are anecdotal and open to experimental error.
Well, in the ZS, personal EI IS based on neg density of .1 at Zone I. Period. It's not gamma, it's not mean gradient, and it's not contrast index-----it was never meant to be. Simply put, EI in the ZS is not originally intended to be based on any contrast measurement at all.
Then why does Adams have you do contrast testing and then suggest to double check the speed afterward? Actually, the three methods you mentioned concern overall contrast. Fractional Gradient Method is about the quality being connected to the contrast of the shadows or separation of the shadows if you will. For instance, if the curve flattens out at 0.10, there will be no shadow separation and the shadows will be blocked up even though the density was at 0.10. And if there is separation in the curve below 0.10, it will have shadow separation in the print. It's that simple. The ISO method does incorporate the 0.3x the average gradient concept into its structure. And just because someone says it's supposed to be a certain way doesn't make it correct.
But what this comes down to is that the Zone System is simple sensitometry and more specifically a simplified version of tone reproduction theory. It is not the be all and end all of photography. It's not the authoritative standard. The world of photography is a much bigger place and there are people who design the standards and invented such things as sensitometry and tone reproduction theory which Adams only used and interpreted. If one goes to the source material, they will understand things better and not be limited to understanding only one system like the Zone System, which is in fact just someone else's interpretation of the source material. Ansel Adams, The Negative, p 84, "The Zone System is a practical expression of sensitometry, the science that relates exposure and density in photography. If the Zone System is understood, the underlying sensitometric principles should not be difficult to grasp and can provide much information useful to the photographer." All I'm doing in my posts is pointing out the underlying sensitometric principles.
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