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Understanding EI???

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Rolleiflexible

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While I agree with most of what has been said, I have to disagree with the use of the term "arbitrary" when it comes to ISO film speed. In fact the current method, which dates back to the forties, is the first method that doesn't determine speed based on an almost entirely arbitrary property of the characteristic curve.

As I said, it is not arbitrary in its computation -- it is an
objective formula that is a function (I think) of the film's
base fog and exposure curve. But it is arbitrary in the
sense that there is no aesthetic reason for adhering to
the ISO rating when shooting the film; the ISO rating is
not an inherently "correct" exposure value to which
photographers should adhere. It provides a benchmark
that is objective in its own terms -- but not beyond.
 
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Sorry, then what did you mean when you said, "But the ISO standard is itself an arbitrary, or subjective,
benchmark"? I agree it's not inherently correct and so do the two quotes I posted, but there are reasons for it and I believe it's important to understand the reasons in order for the photographer to make good decisions.

Also, there actually is an aesthetic reason. It's called the first excellent print test. That's what makes this method so enduring. It's linked to print quality and the perception of quality. Now, you don't have to adhere to the method in order to obtain acceptable or desired results but there is an aesthetic reason.
 
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Mike Wilde

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Look on Barry Thornton's web site and read the personal film speed and personal develoipment time articles. They say clearly to me what others have said in more clouded ways that I did not understand as well.

I now understand better what Vestal said in the Craft of Photography, and Fred Picker said in his writings, and I read them likely 20 years ago.
 

BradS

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....snip....I now understand better what Vestal said in the Craft of Photography, and Fred Picker said in his writings, and I read them likely 20 years ago.

Interesting...I never quite understood it until I read Vestal's explanation and that was after reading Thorton, Craven, London, Adams, Horenstein, and a host of others....perhaps, we don't really "get it" until we're personally ready....or, untill we've read it and re-read it and lived it for a while.

I've noticed this effect in other, completely unrelated, fields too. You wouldn't believe how many books I have at home with "Linear Algebra" in the title....:smile:
 

2F/2F

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I believe what they meant to say is "the speed of a photographic material is not a fundamental concept, but provides an index number useful for calculating camera settings" (from Todd and Zakia, A review of Speed Materials.)

That is EXACTLY how I think of it, and I mentioned this one one of those posts back there somewhere....though you explain it much better.
 
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There's a direct relationship between the ISO and the amount of light striking the film. If you eliminate the ISO and shutter speed, the light meter wants to place 8 meter candles to the film plane. This is a constant built into the meter's calculator. To find the amount of light the meter will record for a given ISO, simply divide 8 by the ISO number. So, an ISO of 1 would be 8/1 or 8mcs. For an ISO of 125, the value would be 8/125 or 0.064. This means that for any combination of f/stop and shutter speed the meter wants to deliver 0.064mcs at the film plane for a ISO 125 rating. As the b&w ISO film speed standard has the speed point at a point 10x less than the meter's calibration point, the equation to determine the ISO film speed for b&w is 0.8/Hm where Hm is the value in mcs that produces 0.10 density. For a 125 speed film that would be 0.0064. That is the relationship between the b&w ISO and the meter exposure.
 

Curt

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What if the film manufacturers printed on the box: [Film Speed = Your Personal EI]. Wouldn't that be something? It would require each purchaser to test the film to determine the exposure that is satisfactory to the individual. But then in no time someone would say "what do you use it at" and most will follow. Some will adjust it and say everyone is wrong. At that point the discussion will heat up and the nuances of technique will arise.
 

Poisson Du Jour

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EI was introduced to me in the 1980s when I was using Kodachrome, often rating PKL200 at 100 — no harm done!
EI is just a personal re-rating 'notation' of the film from it's formal speed to another e.g. 50 to EI40+ or 50 to EI64– .
I give it no other importance other than to notate re-rating of the film to suit circumstances and wouldn't lose sleep over it.
 

Sirius Glass

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What if the film manufacturers printed on the box: [Film Speed = Your Personal EI]. Wouldn't that be something? It would require each purchaser to test the film to determine the exposure that is satisfactory to the individual. But then in no time someone would say "what do you use it at" and most will follow. Some will adjust it and say everyone is wrong. At that point the discussion will heat up and the nuances of technique will arise.

Then all the time would be spent testing the films and not time would be spent on photography.

Clean up your metering technique by not including the sky, get your cameras CLAed so the apertures and shutter speeds are accurate and then you can take photographs at box speed instead of constantly testing and retesting every combination of every film and every developer. Life will be better, your hair will reappear, ... :wink:

Steve
 
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Then all the time would be spent testing the films and not time would be spent on photography.

Absolutely. That's why I feel it's important to truly understand what film speed is, which most people don't, and to understand the difference between film speed and exposure index. Too many people wind up chasing their tails because they follow conventional wisdom and so called experts instead of going to the source. How often do we hear that manufacturer's overrate their films or that you need to incorporate you personal equipment into the mix because they will make some huge difference? If everyone takes some time to understand what film speed is really about, they will save a lot of time and trouble.
 

Chuck_P

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EI is just a personal re-rating 'notation' of the film from it's formal speed to another e.g. 50 to EI40+ or 50 to EI64– .
I give it no other importance other than to notate re-rating of the film to suit circumstances and wouldn't lose sleep over it.

True, expose a film at a speed different than it's box rating (for whatever reason one desires), then the speed used becomes the EI one used. For some people it ends there but for others they make this choice for a very specific reason that relates to finding the speed point of their film as it relates to their equipment, processing, etc....and can be done easily without losing any sleep even. :smile:
 

wogster

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As I look through the Gallery and see the the film used and the ISO rating I see that many time people shot film at rating different than the box speed.
Can some one explain the basic reasons that this technique is used? If you rate a film slower, say a 100 ISO box, shot at 80 what is the reason? Is it more tone, more contrast????

Lots of users will state unequivocally that a certain films ISO rating is full of cr*p, but really there are too many variables to have any hard and fast rule, a few of them are:

The camera shutter can be a little off.
The lens aperture can be a little off.
The meter can be a little off.
They use a different developer.
They mix the developer differently
Their thermometer may be a little off.
They may use a different agitation method then standard.
Their enlarger, paper, paper developer, paper agitation can all be different.

Best thing to do, is start with a film at ISO, if you don't find the results acceptable, then try 1/3 to 1/2 stop more or less exposure, see if that is better for you, if it's better, but you still do not like it, then try a little more, until you find a speed that works for you.
 

RalphLambrecht

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Lots of users will state unequivocally that a certain films ISO rating is full of cr*p, but really there are too many variables to have any hard and fast rule, a few of them are:

The camera shutter can be a little off.
The lens aperture can be a little off.
The meter can be a little off.
They use a different developer.
They mix the developer differently
Their thermometer may be a little off.
They may use a different agitation method then standard.
Their enlarger, paper, paper developer, paper agitation can all be different.

Best thing to do, is start with a film at ISO, if you don't find the results acceptable, then try 1/3 to 1/2 stop more or less exposure, see if that is better for you, if it's better, but you still do not like it, then try a little more, until you find a speed that works for you.

This is all true, but something is missing.

The ISO speed is defined as giving the minimum exposure required to capture shadow detail. Some people just appreciate more shadow detail plus need a bit of a safety factor (due to your list). Also, the ISO standard is using a standard developer. You might be using another (also on your list ). Also, in my experience, when proper custom film tests are conducted, the film speed is typically rated to be 1/3 to 2/3 slower than the box speed. This happens so often, it cannot be a coincident, and it isn't. ISO speeds should be considered to be an absolute minimum, up to a stop more never hurts and rings a lot of shadow detail.

Simple expose the next role and bracket your exposures. I'll bet anything, you will like the prints from the 'overexposed' frames much better than the box speed frames. The underexposed frames are most likely substandard.

When I bracket (almost never), I never bracket for underexposure, they are not worth the film. Film is very forgiving to overexposure, not so much the other way around.
 

Chuck_P

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I'll bet anything, you will like the prints from the 'overexposed' frames much better than the box speed frames.
At lease as far as the shadow detail is concerned-------expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights------it's an unavoidable part of these type discussions, IMO, and benefits the novices that are tuning in. Hopefully, there are a lot of them!
 
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The first thing one needs to understand is that the ISO speed is the actual speed of the film. Its theory is rich and complex and incorporates both physical and psychological factors. Exposure Index is everything else. Actually you can consider exposure index whatever you set your camera or meter’s exposure calculator at including the ISO speed. I’ve found the greatest factor that affects the need to adjust the EI to anything other than the box speed is the individual metering and exposure preferences or how you tend to meter. If most of your images seem thin, add exposure and visa versa. If you like to have a little extra exposure than normal, adjust the EI accordingly. Most of the differences in shutter speeds, f/stops, general developers, etc generally even out in the wash.

Take Ralph’s comment, “Also, in my experience, when proper custom film tests are conducted, the film speed is typically rated to be 1/3 to 2/3 slower than the box speed. This happens so often, it cannot be a coincident.” It isn’t a coincident, but not for the reason he implies, but first ask yourself if everyone’s shutter speeds and f/stops and all are so individual, why would the testing results be so consistent? And that includes all the experimental errors that are associated with such testing. The real reason why the “custom” test results generally come up with slower speeds is because it is a different testing method than the ISO method. Whether you want to consider the method wrong or not is subject to debate, but the method is different never-the-less and the results produced will be different. I am, of course, referring to any Zone System type test.

In the simplest terms, without bring in various factors such as flare, one method has the speed point four stops below the meter reading (ZS) and one has it 3 1/3 stops. That’s where the 1/3 to 2/3 stop difference comes from. There’s nothing wrong with the difference in rating your film 1/3 to 2/3 stops from the ISO rating, but that is not the speed of the film but the EI. Another simple example as to why the slower speed isn’t bad is that prior to 1960, film speeds were one stop slower. A simple mathematical adjustment doubled film speeds overnight.

A good example of why I suggest studying what film speed is when you hear people explain that the old standard had a unrealistically high safety factor which they eliminated in 1960 for the better, followed quickly by the suggestion to rate the film ½ to one stop slower than the box speed, which would be the same as the old “unrealistically high” safety standard. Another simple example of the 1/3 to 2/3 stop difference from the ZS is that the testing method for the ZS established prior to 1960 didn’t change after 1960, so in essence, it represents the old standard. Just like I said, two different methods of speed determination.

Oh, the ISO speed does not represent the minimum exposure required to capture shadow detail. That would be about one stop down where the fractional gradient speed point is located. This point was determined by Loyd Jones. The ISO speed point isn’t really were the exposure is supposed to fall either. First, flare will place the exposure about 1/3 stop above it. Second, the equation has a 1/3 stop adjustment on it. According to C.N. Nelson, the 1960 and current ISO standard has a safety factor of 1.2. So, you actually have a one to 1 2/3 stop underexposure safety factor according to the standard model. And there is no standard developer in the ISO standard any more.
 
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RalphLambrecht

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...Take Ralph’s comment, “Also, in my experience, when proper custom film tests are conducted, the film speed is typically rated to be 1/3 to 2/3 slower than the box speed. This happens so often, it cannot be a coincident.” It isn’t a coincident, but not for the reason he implies, but first ask yourself if everyone’s shutter speeds and f/stops and all are so individual, why would the testing results be so consistent? And that includes all the experimental errors that are associated with such testing. The real reason why the “custom” test results generally come up with slower speeds is because it is a different testing method than the ISO method. Whether you want to consider the method wrong or not is subject to debate, but the method is different never-the-less and the results produced will be different. I am, of course, referring to any Zone System type test...

Steve

I agree, and that is what I implied!


...Oh, the ISO speed does not represent the minimum exposure required to capture shadow detail...

But it does. I'm talking about Zone-I shadow detail with a density of 0.1 above base+fog (see ISO standard attached). I believe my statement was correct.
 

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But it does. I'm talking about Zone-I shadow detail with a density of 0.1 above base+fog (see ISO standard attached). I believe my statement was correct.

Yes, I know, but that is not the minimum exposure required to capture shadow detail like you suggested. It's just the speed point. Jones found the minimum useful point was further down - 0.29 log units to be exact if you adhere to the ISO standard contrast parameters. Which means that the 0.10 has a safety factor even before considering the where the actual shadow placement should fall according to the standard model.

The standard doesn't deal with theory, just how to accomplish it's stated goal, so it doesn't explain one way or the other whether 0.10 is the minimum exposure point. Just like it doesn't explain it's correlation the with Delta-X Criterion, but it exists as I have previously explained the reasons why the delta log-H is 1.30 and the delta log D is 0.80.

Nelson, C.N., Safety Factors in Camera Exposures, Photographic Science and Engineering, Vol 4, No. 1, Jan-Feb 1960.

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Chuck_P

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It's just the speed point.

Right, 0.1 log E units above fb+f is the "practical" determination of film speed. Why, because, IMO, it is within the response of the paper's emulsion to be able to produce a tone just perceptibly lighter than Dmax------what we call Zone I, there is no shadow detail in a Zone I exposure, only enough useful density on the negative for the paper to print a Zone I print value. Negative density outside the response capability of the paper's emulsion seems useless to me.

What matters is what can be printed with todays papers. Who cares about any measurable density below fb+f density. What value is it to anybody with a film camera in their hands?

Jones found the minimum useful point was further down - 0.29 log units to be exact

If by "useful" you mean that a -0.29 log E unit can be printed on paper, well I guess I would have to see it to believe it. I can't get any thing on paper below fb+f, paper that I buy anyway.
 

RalphLambrecht

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Yes, I know, but that is not the minimum exposure required to capture shadow detail like you suggested. It's just the speed point...

Yes, that's exactly what I meant with minimum exposure required to capture shadow detail. Other than that, as CPorter said, below Zone I or 0.1, negative density is too low to print, and consequently, cannot be called 'useful' in my opinion. In fact, it's too low for me, that why my film speed (EI) is determined with a minimum density of 0.17. This typically drops the box speed by 2/3 stop and gives me adequate shadow detail. It works wonders.
 

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Photo Engineer

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Measuring B+Fog can lead you astray due to the fact that different films have different toe curve shapes. If the toe is soft, a lot of detail can be lost due to this curvature.

Contrast or gamma is measured from the longest straight line portion of the curve, and therefore in the example above by Ralph, the gamma is misplaced downwards toward the toe and falsely increases speed. The true speed of an emulsion is measured with no curvature. It is the straight line portion extrapolated to the X axis. If you wish to use the curve in the toe as part of your measure of speed, then that is your prerogative but it is no indication of getting good shadow detail.

In other words, all zones must be on a straight line portion of the H&D curve that does not include bows upwards or downwards, nor should it contain any portion of the toe or shoulder. This is the way to measure a negative film and how to get the best photos.

Other methods can be used.

For example, the threshold speed is one in which the inflection point of the fog (straight line following the X axis) upwards in density is the ultimate speed of the emulsion, as you can get pictures in which zone 1 or zone 2 is placed at that point. Pictures will be fine but will suffer from blocked shadows.

There is too much "wiggle" room in the ANSI standards that allow for other numbers to be used for ISO. And, it gets more complex for color. I have seen color negative films that by one definition were a stop slow, but by another were right on aim.

Things are more rigid for reversal.

PE
 

RalphLambrecht

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Measuring B+Fog can lead you astray due to the fact that different films have different toe curve shapes. If the toe is soft, a lot of detail can be lost due to this curvature...

This is correct, and something people who were tasks to put a standard together have battled for some time. The current ISO standard suffers from the same effect (see graph in post #42). By raising Dmin from 0.10 to 0.17, but maintaining the average gradient method, the influence of the toe shape is significantly reduced (graph in post #45) but not eliminated. Anyway, it lowers the ISO speed by about 2/3 stop. This might not be enough in all cases, and that's why personal testing is proposed, but with most modern emulsions it works well (unless an emulsion has an extremely soft toe). In practise, this method does not effect shadow or highlight contrast, because most of the 'usable' portion of the curve is reasonably straight.
 
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Photo Engineer

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Ralph;

You are correct. I would like to point out that if you measure contrast with more of the straight line portion rather than as in the graph above, this will automatically (pretty much) compensate for this problem by reducing ISO as you suggest (actually about 1/3 stop which is about correct). This is pretty much the philosophy we followed.

PE
 
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CPorter -
Right, 0.1 log E units above fb+f is the "practical" determination of film speed. Why, because, IMO, it is within the response of the paper's emulsion to be able to produce a tone just perceptibly lighter than Dmax------what we call Zone I, there is no shadow detail in a Zone I exposure, only enough useful density on the negative for the paper to print a Zone I print value. Negative density outside the response capability of the paper's emulsion seems useless to me.

What matters is what can be printed with todays papers. Who cares about any measurable density below fb+f density. What value is it to anybody with a film camera in their hands?

If by "useful" you mean that a -0.29 log E unit can be printed on paper, well I guess I would have to see it to believe it. I can't get any thing on paper below fb+f, paper that I buy anyway.

First of all, density is not the determining factor for determining print quality. It is contrast. That is why there was the fractional gradient method of determining film speed and why there is the Delta-X Criterion method of determining film speed which is incorporated into the current ISO standard. The fractional gradient method had the speed point where the curve’s gradient was 0.3x the average gradient of the curve. Loyd Jones found that contrast determined quality in his historic First Excellent Print Test back in the late thirties. As the quote I posted earlier states, film speed is not a fundamental concept. It is based on the ability to produce perceived high quality results in the print. That means there is a psychological element to it. Up until Jones, no one took that into consideration. According to W. F. Berg in is book Exposure Theory and Practice, “with this criterion, (Jones) completed the circle which started from a purely academic linking of the speed with an almost entirely arbitrary property of the characteristic curve, then led us to the purely practical concept of speed chose criterion based.”

The fraction gradient point was chosen because it was the base point of acceptable exposure, but it was never intended to be the point where any exposure was to fall. That would leave no room for underexposure error. It was used as a speed point, or the point where the speed of the film is determined. Take for instance that for normal development, the fractional gradient speed point falls around a stop lower than the 0.10 fixed density point which would indicate the film speeds should be one stop faster than if you used the 0.10 fixed density point; but in actuality, they were one stop slower. How? Once the point was found, it was plugged into an equation. The amount of exposure necessary (in meter candle seconds) is divided into a constant. If the constant is 1, then the speed will reflect that exact position, if not, it will shift the placement. Transparency film speed is determined on the curves mid-point which is around 10x higher than the amount of exposure need to obtain the 0.10 fixed density point for a given speed yet transparencies don’t have speeds 10 times higher than b&w films. They use a different constant in the equation. A given speed point for a type of film is based on the particular characteristics of the material and the desired results, then the speed equation makes it possible to determine their exposures with a single type of light meter instead of having special light meters for each type of film (color neg, transparency, litho, aero, etc).

This is no different with the 0.10 fixed density method today. 0.10 isn’t necessarily the aim point of density for the shadow exposure. According to the standard model, the statistically average scene is 7 1/3 stops. The highlights fall around 0.93 log units above the (~3 ¼ stops) above the mean log luminance (meter exposure) and 1.27 log units below (~4 1/3 stops). Well, as the 0.10 fixed density speed point falls only 1.0 log units below the meter reading wouldn’t that mean the shadows will fall about one stop lower? Yes they should, but average flare from the average scene is 1 to 1 1/3 stops. The reason for the range is because the standard model uses one stop while real world average for 35mm users is around 1 1/3. One stop flare brings the exposure up just above the 0.10 speed point and the real world flare takes it up 1/3 stop higher. Add to that the constant in the b&w speed equation is 0.8 and not 1, that adds 1/3 more stop to the exposure (1/.0064 = 156 vs 0.8/.0064 = 125 a 1/3 stop difference). In fact, the standard model pretty much agrees with Ralph's placement of the shadow placement at a higher density, but for different reasons. Not only is the target for shadow exposure not at a density of 0.10 but that there is an underexposure safety factor of at least 1 1/3 stops.

What most people don’t know is that the fractional gradient method wasn’t really eliminated in favor of the fixed density method. There is an equation built into the current ISO standard that effectively makes the fixed density method equate with the fractional gradient method, but only when certain contrast parameters are met. The reason why the ISO standard requires a very specific set of contrast conditions (Δ log-H of 1.30, and Δ log density of 0.80, the +- 0.05 has been eliminated) is because under those conditions, there is a correlation between the fixed density method (which is easier to determine) and the fractional gradient method (which is more accurate). Only under those conditions does this happen. In T.H James’ and George C. Higgins book Fundamentals of Photographic Theory they write, “This procedure (Delta-X Criterion) is to be used as the new American standard method of determining speed (1960 standard), and since it incorporates the fixed-density feature of the DIN method or speed measurement there is a possibility that it will be adopted internationally.” Film developed outside the contrast parameters shouldn't use the fixed density method for accurate speed determination but should use the Delta-X equation. The reason for this is explained in the next paragraph. The Delta-X Criterion is perhaps the biggest secret in photography today and not understanding it leads to misinterpreting film speed which is almost universal.

CPorter - Why, because, IMO, it is within the response of the paper's emulsion to be able to produce a tone just perceptibly lighter than Dmax.

The paper black method of printing isn’t really a valid way of determining proper film speed when you take into consideration that density isn’t deciding factor. One of the reasons why the fixed density method wasn’t accepted as the preferred method to determine film speed was because, as C.N. Nelson writes in his paper Safety Factors in Camera Exposures, “The fixed density criterion tends to underrate films that are developed to a lower average gradient and overrate films that are developed to a higher average gradient.” The fractional gradient method has the speed point move up and down in relation to the 0.10 fixed density method depending on the over all contrast. As it is the shadow contrast that determines quality, that means the overall density of the film will increase and decrease depending on the development. This means there can’t be a specific print exposure to determine “correct” shadow except normal development. This renders that concept of paper black moot as an argument for proper film exposure. However, the method is a good learning tool and can be helpful for normally processed films, but it isn’t a rule or good theory. It’s just conventional wisdom.

The problem with using the Zone System is that it isn’t real sensitometry nor is it part of exposure or film speed theory. It is a short hand for exposure. Adams had nothing to do with the establishment of film speed. He wrote no scientific papers and is not considered an authority. In fact, he acknowledges Mees (read Jones) for their assistance (which he misinterpreted) in helping develop the Zone System. So, when you talk ZS, you are only talking about exposure and not film speed.

This is why I think it’s important not to confuse film speed with EI or exposure. Ralph is not talking film speed when he says to rate the film 2/3 stop higher. He is talking about exposure. I agree with him that additional exposure can’t hurt and in many cases helps, but too many people get confused between a good rule of thumb exposure suggestion, like Ralph’s, and the actual speed of the film. It’s important to know the difference so that the decisions you make have a strong foundation. I know that depending on the scene’s flare, with 80% coming from the subject, there is a potential for the shadows to fall within a two stop range of the speed point. This is film speed. From this, I don’t attempt or expect to nail a specific point of density with my exposure because I know it’s virtually impossible. That is exposure.

CPorter - What matters is what can be printed with todays papers. Who cares about any measurable density below fb+f density. What value is it to anybody with a film camera in their hands?

If by "useful" you mean that a -0.29 log E unit can be printed on paper, well I guess I would have to see it to believe it. I can't get any thing on paper below fb+f, paper that I buy anyway.

I'm sorry, but you’ve totally misinterpreted what I was saying. I never said anything about densities below fb+f. The 0.29 log units was log-H units (not density units) below the exposure required to make 0.10 density above film base plus fog.

P.E. - In other words, all zones must be on a straight line portion of the H&D curve that does not include bows upwards or downwards, nor should it contain any portion of the toe or shoulder. This is the way to measure a negative film and how to get the best photos.

This kind of sounds a lot like the concept behind the inertia speed method which was unanimously rejected by the Ninth International Congress of Photography in 1935 because the inertia speeds varied as much as 500 percent with increasing gamma. It also didn’t work because like Berg said, it was “a purely academic linking of the speed with an almost entirely arbitrary property of the characteristic curve.” It also goes against findings with psychophysics and perception. I've probably just misread your post.

Ralph - below Zone I or 0.1, negative density is too low to print, and consequently, cannot be called 'useful' in my opinion.

The thing is, it is just an opinion. It is not film speed theory. I think it's important for people to understand the difference between when someone is giving an informed opinion and when it is established fact. Jones found that “first excellent print” could be made from a negative where the shadow density fell about one stop lower than 0.10 density point. The "useful" came from Jones who conducted those tests and from which all modern film speed, exposure, and tone reproduction theory is derived. As far as I know, no one has ever said that 0.10 is the minimum useful density in any scientific paper. It's only in popular texts.
 
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