Underrated film cameras

[MAubrey]

Has anyone mentioned the Mamiya Press system yet?

A multiformat 6x45, 6x6, and 6x9 back with a 50mm f/6.3 and 100mm f/2.8 lens make for a really lovely little kit.

 

[BobD]

At the opposite of the underrated cameras are the over-priced "cult cameras" that are currently holding sway on eBay. The K1000s and AE1s have already been mentioned here but another is the Nikon L35AF and, to some degree, other similar models from Nikon, Canon, Yashica and a few others. A "mint" L35AF can sell for $150-$350 or more! I admit it is a nifty little camera. One that I discovered for myself years ago when they were dirt cheap but $350? Come on! Though it has a fine lens, its innards are largely plastic with a limited lifespan.

 

[Huss]

... A "mint" L35AF can sell for $150-$350 or more! I admit it is a nifty little camera. One that I discovered for myself years ago when they were dirt cheap but $350? Come on! Though it has a fine lens, its innards are largely plastic with a limited lifespan.

So, just like a $1500 Zeiss Ikon ZM!

 

[Huss]

absolutely, but fortunately, I already have several, so I’m good for 100 years, since I’m sure their lifespan will exceed that. The FTn is probably my favorite 35mm camera ever (I prefer it over the FT2 because it doesn’t have a flash shoe, which ruins the beautiful lines of the later Nikkormats.)

I prefer the FT2 because it has a better focusing screen and takes a modern battery.

 

[abruzzi]

I prefer the FT2 because it has a better focusing screen and takes a modern battery.

I prefer the all microprism focusing aid (I didn’t used to, but I’ve really started liking microprisms), and all my FTn’s have been updated to take a silver battery..

 

[Sirius Glass]

I prefer the all microprism focusing aid (I didn’t used to, but I’ve really started liking microprisms), and all my FTn’s have been updated to take a silver battery..

I find that microprisms get dark and become useless with the light fades or I am using a lens with a larger f/number that the normal lens. I swap out view screens with microprisms.

 

[abruzzi]

I've found the microprism get useless at about the same darkness that split prisms get useless too. I hated microprisms for a long time, but when I got my Pentax 67 it had a microprism spot, and I really learned to love it. Since then I switched a number of my cameras to the microprism only spot. But its hard to find for some of my cameras. (hell, my GS-1 doesn't even have a focusing aid. It a bit slower to focus, but still very usable.)

 

[foc]

I had an Olympus OM4ti, late 1980s, that had a split prism with a micro prism collar and it still was hard to use in low light (this was for local press work). I found that even moving the camera slightly up or down against my eye, would lighten the split prism only a little. In the end, what worked for me was to focus using the ground glass part of the screen ( a bit like a Zenit).

 

[Helge]

The best focus screen I’ve ever tried was the Minolta Acute-Matte screens.
Reason enough alone to chose Minolta, even if the glass was only good, and not some of the best ever, as is the case with the Rokkor and later “Minolta” branded.
It’s AFAIK a very, very fine laser etched fresnel pattern that doesn’t have the usual problems of false sharpness with fresnel focusing screens.

The matte part of that screen is just second to none for focussing in the dark.

 

[cliveh]

In terms of underrated film cameras, I think Rolleicord IV with Schneider f3.5 Lens must be top of the list. This is a first rate quality camera that can match any Hasselblad.

 

[CJG]

Along the same vein, I just did an A/B comparison on a tripod with my Minolta Autocord and Rollei 6008af w/80mm Xenotar. The Autocord made a great showing and fooled most of my photographer friends

 

[GRHazelton]

Along the same vein, I just did an A/B comparison on a tripod with my Minolta Autocord and Rollei 6008af w/80mm Xenotar. The Autocord made a great showing and fooled most of my photographer friends

The Autocord is a sweet box, excellent fit and finish, handling, and performance.

 

[CJG]

Yes, I'm amazed with the Autocord's performance wide open. I read a lot before trying it how Tessar type lenses aren't sharp in the edges w/o our even sharp till stopped down. This is from the Minolta wide open.

 

[Helge]

Autocords are not underrated though. They cost the same or more as Rolleicords.

 

[henryvk]

In Europe, where they are not so common, Autocords tend to cost a lot more than Rolleicords.

 

[Helge]

In Europe, where they are not so common, Autocords tend to cost a lot more than Rolleicords.

Which is stupid, because they are about equal.

With the Autocord having the problem of stiffening focus rail grease under some long term storage conditions.

From what I can see the prices are much the same in the US though.

 

[henryvk]

Actually, you are right. It had been a while since I checked the prices.

If not for the high price, the Autocord CdS Would be a sturdier (?) alternative to the Yashica Mat 124. Welp, for 500€ it's not worth it imho.

 

[CJG]

Autocords are not underrated though. They cost the same or more as Rolleicords.

OK, maybe undervalued? Both are about the best image quality for the buck you can buy

 

[lobitar]

Which is stupid, because they are about equal.

With the Autocord having the problem of stiffening focus rail grease under some long term storage conditions.

From what I can see the prices are much the same in the US though.

I bought a new Autocord at Kongsbak&Cohn in Copenhagen 50 years ago, but never came to like it. Perhaps mostly because of the dim finder.

 

[CJG]

I bought a new Autocord at Kongsbak&Cohn in Copenhagen 50 years ago, but never came to like it. Perhaps mostly because of the dim finder.

That's an easy fix. I bought my Autocord with an aftermarket screen. Not when of the uber expensive ones, but it's very usable. The Oelson screens look like a good value.

 

[faberryman]

I had an Olympus OM4ti, late 1980s, that had a split prism with a micro prism collar and it still was hard to use in low light (this was for local press work). I found that even moving the camera slightly up or down against my eye, would lighten the split prism only a little. In the end, what worked for me was to focus using the ground glass part of the screen ( a bit like a Zenit).

If you can find one the Olympus 2-4 focusing screen is two stops brighter and makes a big difference.

 

[MarkVII88]

Yes I agree the 4 element Yashinon which is on my Yashica-Mat is very good. The Yashica A.B.C and D have the 3 element
Yashikor and or Yashimar which are not bad, but I think the later Yashinon is better..

JSYK, later copies of the Yashica D and the Yashica 635 both came with the 4-element Yashinon 80mm f/3.5 lens and the f/2.8 viewing lens. Only earlier copies have the 3-element Yahikor.

 

[MarkVII88]

The FTn is probably my favorite 35mm camera ever (I prefer it over the FT2 because it doesn’t have a flash shoe, which ruins the beautiful lines of the later Nikkormats.)

I specifically bought the FT2 because I thought it provided the same shooting experience of a Nikkormat, but offered all the upgrades of a later model Nikon 35mm SLR. Those upgrades include the nicer K2 focusing screen with split image focusing aid, the improved film ISO selector with lock, and the fact that the camera takes modern 1.5v batteries that you can find anywhere. The hot shoe could also be considered an improvement, but it's certainly an extra feature. I think the FT2 is the best Nikkormat.

 

[MarkVII88]

The K1000 is a Spotmatic with K mount and open aperture metering. It's not that the k1000 is a bad camera, it really a very nice basic camera, but it has become a cult fav driven by students who need a all manual body for photo 101 classes. Under rated is the ZX-M an manual focus version the ZX10, it replaced the K1000, integrated motor winder, and auto exposure modes, lacks the build quality of the early K1000.

Given how expensive K1000 have become in the last 3-5 years, for no good reason, I think they're no longer the great value they once were. For similar prices, or less, you could buy a KM or KX which offer more features and better functionality than the K1000. These are really the pick of the litter for fully manual Pentax K-mount cameras IMO.

 

[Marcelo Paniagua]

Given how expensive K1000 have become in the last 3-5 years, for no good reason, I think they're no longer the great value they once were. For similar prices, or less, you could buy a KM or KX which offer more features and better functionality than the K1000. These are really the pick of the litter for fully manual Pentax K-mount cameras IMO.

Agree on that. It now appears that Olympus OM1 is cheaper than the K1000 which seems absurb. OM1 has pro functionalities that K1000 lacks like mirror look. Haven't used Pentax glasses that much so not sure I can compare them to the Zuiko.

Marcelo