Underrated film cameras
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At the opposite of the underrated cameras are the over-priced "cult cameras" that are currently holding sway on eBay. The K1000s and AE1s have already been mentioned here but another is the Nikon L35AF and, to some degree, other similar models from Nikon, Canon, Yashica and a few others. A "mint" L35AF can sell for $150-$350 or more! I admit it is a nifty little camera. One that I discovered for myself years ago when they were dirt cheap but $350? Come on! Though it has a fine lens, its innards are largely plastic with a limited lifespan.
So, just like a $1500 Zeiss Ikon ZM!
I prefer the FT2 because it has a better focusing screen and takes a modern battery.
I prefer the all microprism focusing aid (I didn’t used to, but I’ve really started liking microprisms), and all my FTn’s have been updated to take a silver battery..
I find that microprisms get dark and become useless with the light fades or I am using a lens with a larger f/number that the normal lens. I swap out view screens with microprisms.
I've found the microprism get useless at about the same darkness that split prisms get useless too. I hated microprisms for a long time, but when I got my Pentax 67 it had a microprism spot, and I really learned to love it. Since then I switched a number of my cameras to the microprism only spot. But its hard to find for some of my cameras. (hell, my GS-1 doesn't even have a focusing aid. It a bit slower to focus, but still very usable.)
I had an Olympus OM4ti, late 1980s, that had a split prism with a micro prism collar and it still was hard to use in low light (this was for local press work). I found that even moving the camera slightly up or down against my eye, would lighten the split prism only a little. In the end, what worked for me was to focus using the ground glass part of the screen ( a bit like a Zenit).
The best focus screen I’ve ever tried was the Minolta Acute-Matte screens.
Reason enough alone to chose Minolta, even if the glass was only good, and not some of the best ever, as is the case with the Rokkor and later “Minolta” branded.
It’s AFAIK a very, very fine laser etched fresnel pattern that doesn’t have the usual problems of false sharpness with fresnel focusing screens.
The matte part of that screen is just second to none for focussing in the dark.
Reason enough alone to chose Minolta, even if the glass was only good, and not some of the best ever, as is the case with the Rokkor and later “Minolta” branded.
It’s AFAIK a very, very fine laser etched fresnel pattern that doesn’t have the usual problems of false sharpness with fresnel focusing screens.
The matte part of that screen is just second to none for focussing in the dark.
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Along the same vein, I just did an A/B comparison on a tripod with my Minolta Autocord and Rollei 6008af w/80mm Xenotar. The Autocord made a great showing and fooled most of my photographer friends
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- Old Gregg
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Yes, I'm amazed with the Autocord's performance wide open. I read a lot before trying it how Tessar type lenses aren't sharp in the edges w/o our even sharp till stopped down. This is from the Minolta wide open.
Which is stupid, because they are about equal.
With the Autocord having the problem of stiffening focus rail grease under some long term storage conditions.
From what I can see the prices are much the same in the US though.
I bought a new Autocord at Kongsbak&Cohn in Copenhagen 50 years ago, but never came to like it. Perhaps mostly because of the dim finder.
That's an easy fix. I bought my Autocord with an aftermarket screen. Not when of the uber expensive ones, but it's very usable. The Oelson screens look like a good value.
If you can find one the Olympus 2-4 focusing screen is two stops brighter and makes a big difference.I had an Olympus OM4ti, late 1980s, that had a split prism with a micro prism collar and it still was hard to use in low light (this was for local press work). I found that even moving the camera slightly up or down against my eye, would lighten the split prism only a little. In the end, what worked for me was to focus using the ground glass part of the screen ( a bit like a Zenit).
JSYK, later copies of the Yashica D and the Yashica 635 both came with the 4-element Yashinon 80mm f/3.5 lens and the f/2.8 viewing lens. Only earlier copies have the 3-element Yahikor.
I specifically bought the FT2 because I thought it provided the same shooting experience of a Nikkormat, but offered all the upgrades of a later model Nikon 35mm SLR. Those upgrades include the nicer K2 focusing screen with split image focusing aid, the improved film ISO selector with lock, and the fact that the camera takes modern 1.5v batteries that you can find anywhere. The hot shoe could also be considered an improvement, but it's certainly an extra feature. I think the FT2 is the best Nikkormat.
Given how expensive K1000 have become in the last 3-5 years, for no good reason, I think they're no longer the great value they once were. For similar prices, or less, you could buy a KM or KX which offer more features and better functionality than the K1000. These are really the pick of the litter for fully manual Pentax K-mount cameras IMO.
Agree on that. It now appears that Olympus OM1 is cheaper than the K1000 which seems absurb. OM1 has pro functionalities that K1000 lacks like mirror look. Haven't used Pentax glasses that much so not sure I can compare them to the Zuiko.
Marcelo
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