FYI, Goathill is at www.subclub.org/sponsors/goathil2.htm
Their slitters have firm foam on the top and slippery paper-backing on the bottom.
Introduction
Hello everyone!
Once the film arrives, I would recommend slitting all of it down to 61mm. to do this, you do need to purchase a film slitter. Goat Hill Film Slitters makes lots of options, but the one we are looking for is the 70mm to 120 (61mm) slitter.
View attachment 327073
This kind of pull-through slitters always looked barbarian for me. I've built a slitter that has pairs of foam covered reels inside to transport the film.
But whatever you use - your biggest enemy is dust.
Thanks a lot for taking the time to write up this excellent tutorial.
A small caveat. Some adhesive tapes are tribo-electric, meaning, when pulled off, will generate static electricity, sparks, and therefore light. This used to be an issue when I started photography; nowadays, manufacturers seem to have addressed this by proper choice of tape/adhesive. Might come back in DIY film spools. When separating the exposed film, pull the tape slowly and be alert for light generated along the separation line. Or just cut the taped end, but for me I don't like having tape+adhesive in the developing tank.
I have a couple of 5 inch rolls of extremely out of date, thin Panatomic-X aerial film and about a hundred 120 spools with backing paper.
Sounds like a project...
That does! You probably need to build your own film slitter though, 5 inches is very wide. You thought about making sheet film instead?
FYI, Goathill is at www.subclub.org/sponsors/goathil2.htm
Their slitters have firm foam on the top and slippery paper-backing on the bottom.
FYI, Goathill is at www.subclub.org/sponsors/goathil2.htm
Their slitters have firm foam on the top and slippery paper-backing on the bottom.
I guess you all know, but just in case there is a long running 70mm thread on rangefinderforum. Add here for cross reference:
70mm Film FUN up ahead
Hi All, I am a big fan of 70mm and have been stocking up with film in my deep freeze for many years. Recently I had to remove and rearrange things, so this seems to be a good time to take an inventory. 70mm Kodak Surveillance Film by Nokton48, on Flickr This is fourteen rolls of 70mm Kodak...rangefinderforum.com
Not of IR, still waiting on the filter for my RB, it is backordered. But I do have images shot as regular film:
(http://imgur.com/a/BkSkNcP) Apologies for the atrocious home scan quality, I do not have a dedicated scanning setup. The actual negatives look much better.
Walk me through what kind of IR filters to look for. I have a few R60 or red filters but I think I might need to go harder. What should I look for? I'd like to use on a TLR so I can at least see through the lens. I have some Mamiya C bodies. That should work.
Also, do I need to compensate focus for the AGFA film if shooting IR?
i am getting a 720nm pass filter, as although some folks say a very deep red filter does work, and with a much lass heavy ISO penalty, to get the best possible results you want almost all the light from the filter to be IR.
As for focus compensation, I have heard both that you should, and shouldn’t, do it. Though the consensus on both sides seems to be that above F16 it doesn’t really matter.
So I should be looking for a 46mm 720nm pass filter for the Mamiya C 80mm 2.8 lens. I just ordered two rolls of the Agfa off the Indian Ebay fella. Do you need to develop IR exposed differently? I have HC110. D-76 and Rodinal.
Nope! No need to dev differently. It’s just B&W film. It just happens to see a bit more than we can.
This is very interesting. Thank you.
I was wondering, if you don't have a paper from a developed roll, what would you use instead?
Normal paper -- even thick stuff won't cut it for paper-backing. It has to be impervious to light AND VERY smooth -- to avoid scratching.
It also needs to be very precisely cut, and thicker in the middle than at the edges, in order to ensure that it doesn't leak light at the edges.
Backing paper or 220 leaders and trailers are not as simple as people think.
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