Alright, perfect, thanks.There may be some rare exceptions, but all of the charts from the chemistry manufacturers that I have seen usually give the same times for 135 and 120 film, all other conditions beuing the same.
To be honest, I have no idea why I started to use 1:50 instead of 1+50. All of my written notes are in the 1:50 format, however incorrect that may be. I have seen 1:50 and 1+50 used interchangeably, so I assumed that they meant the same thing. I do not believe this to be that big of an issue, but if it can cause issues later on, I'll use 1+50/1+25, etc., henceforth. All of the calculations were done as 1+24, 1+49, etc.It is a minor point, but consider your notation representing your dilution, "1:50"
To me, that notation is somewhat ambiguous because it can be interpreted to mean either, 1 part of A combined with 50 parts of B, in which case you end up with a final volume of 51 parts. In photography this is the usual meaning. However, I worked in a clinical lab where dilutions were assumed to represent a ratio of the part to the final volume, so 1+49. I think it is safer to use the notation "1+50" to avoid confusion.
This is another example of where my greenness is showing; I still do not know all of the accurate terminology for lab equipment. For measuring Rodinal, at the moment, I'm using a cheap graduated cylinder. I have no traditional lab training, so apologies for using the incorrect name.The word "beaker" can refer to several different types of glassware, and some beakers do have markings on them to represent volume. However, I would not consider most beakers to be very good for measuring, except for very rough approximations. Notice this 50mL beaker warns that the markings are "APPROX"
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For measuring Rodinal, I would recommend a graduated cylinder, possibly one that holds 10mL, total -- or possibly 25mL? You want the smallest size that can contain the largest volume you would normally need to measure. If sometimes you need to measure less than 10mL and other times more than 25mL, then I would consider getting two graduated cylindars, maybe a 10mL and a 50mL or 100mL.
Using 1:50 is not "incorrect" -- only somewhat ambiguous. You "assumed that they meant the same thing," but someone else might assume somesthing different. No big deal among photographers, nit-picking really. But in some other context it could be an issue.All of my written notes are in the 1:50 format, however incorrect that may be. I have seen 1:50 and 1+50 used interchangeably, so I assumed that they meant the same thing.
No apology needed. Every craft has it's own technical language, and it takes time to learn it. It sounds like you are on the right track towards success.For measuring Rodinal, at the moment, I'm using a cheap graduated cylinder. I have no traditional lab training, so apologies for using the incorrect name.
To be honest, I have no idea why I started to use 1:50 instead of 1+50. All of my written notes are in the 1:50 format, however incorrect that may be. I have seen 1:50 and 1+50 used interchangeably, so I assumed that they meant the same thing. I do not believe this to be that big of an issue, but if it can cause issues later on, I'll use 1+50/1+25, etc., henceforth. All of the calculations were done as 1+24, 1+49, etc.
10ml rodinal to 490ml water.
Well crap. This thread now has me questioning my methods. My interpretation of 1 to 50 is 500ml (single roll) broken into 50 parts total.
10ml rodinal to 490ml water.
The LED light is not in the 35mm frame. I was holding up an LED light bar behind the drying negative to take the digital photograph. Apologies for the confusion.How does a LED light get into the picture?
Thanks
pentaxuser
Absolutely.Light leak for sure.
Good call; that might help. However, given the pattern of the fogging, the cause may not (only) be on the bottom of the camera, so there's a chance that shielding the bottom may not be a totally reliable workaround.If you can’t replace light seals on the camera right away you can try keeping the bottom half of the camera case on at all times.
The camera is a Praktica LTL; it only has a seal at the hinge. And, looking up other Praktica L-series camera light leaks, the patterns match perfectly.the cause may not (only) be on the bottom of the camera
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