First Development
The first photo (no.1) is of the bottom of 2 rolls (the bottom looked better than the top).
1:50 (~15.5ml Rodinal and ~785ml Water) for 8 minutes at ~18c (more around ~18.6c, possibly hotter by the end of development from the sun) with the first minute of agitation, then the final 10 seconds of every minute after.
Ilford wash method
Ilford Rapidfix (Mixed Oct 11 2025, used 3 times) at 22c for 2 minutes.
Second Development (Trying to solve the purple-blue color)
Pre-soaked while mixing the Rodinal; I did not do that with the first development.
The dilution was 1:50 (~10ml Rodinal + ~490ml Water) for 8 minutes, but at ~19-20c (the thermometer was flipping between 19.9c and 20c). Same agitation; first minute, then last 10 seconds of every minute.
I read online somewhere (Flickr, maybe) that double fixing would help with the purple, so I did that.
First fix was Ilford Rapidfix for 2 min ~23c (Same fix working mix as last time, Oct 11 2025, I poured some into a small glass and it appeared to be fine; however, did not do a leader test).
Then I filled the tank up with water and agitated for about a minute, then poured it out, repeated that 3 times.
The second fix was Ilford Rapidfix for 3 minutes at 22c (mixed Nov 5 2025/today), after that I set it to sit under a hose with water running for a bit before drying.
My bottle of R09 lists a development time of 14 minutes for Tri-X in 1+50, so that adds some more credibility to underdevelopment
Your negatives look both under developed and under fixed.
I read online somewhere (Flickr, maybe) that double fixing would help with the purple, so I did that.
I am looking for negatives that can be printed with an enlarger with relative ease, which I believe means contrast and an amount of grain with detail.
That Agfa chart is quite old
I don't think it is the Rodinal. I have developed other films, such as "CatLABS X FILM 320 Pro BW Negative", and as far as I can tell, they look acceptable.Perhaps your Rodinal concentrate has problems.
This is what ADOX says about developing times using their version of Rodinal - at 20C:
View attachment 410738
I'll give the 1:50/1+49 for 14 min a try and post the results.@MattKing is right. Your development time is too short. Agfa suggests 12 minutes at 20ºC at 400EI.
I am measuring out the distilled water in a 1000ml beaker, then measuring out the Rodinal concentrate in a 10ml or 50ml beaker, and then pouring the Rodinal into the water and briefly stirring before pouring it into the tank. After developing for the amount of time, it is poured into a collection jug for disposal.(2) I am unclear, based on your post, about how you are diluting and using your developer. Dilute developers are intended to be used once and tossed.
Yes, I used a water stop bath.Did you use a stop bath after the developer, or went straight to the fix? It's not mentioned in your description.
I haven't heard of letting it sit. Is it better to let it sit for 4-5 minutes instead of just doing the inversions?Fill and invert the tank five times; wait 4-5 minutes; pour out the water.
Fill and invert the tank ten times; wait 4-5 minutes; pour out the water; finally,
Fill and invert the tank 20 times; wait 4-5 minutes; pour out the water.
Got it, I'll fix it for the 5 minutes next time, and I'll also drop the two fixes.Your fix time is too short. Ilford suggests 3 minutes minimum. I usally do 4.
Apologies for the confusion, I meant the digital camera I was using to take the photos of the negatives. The digital JPG images came out more yellow than I was expecting.I don’t know what you mean by the camera’s “white balance,” in relation to exposing Panchromatic film? I have no such adjustment capacities on any of my film cameras. Perhaps others on this forum will have more to contribute on that account.
And by the way, the purple tint isn't very important. Yes you can take steps like using a washaid to help remove it, but it doesn't have an important affect.
Should I worry about the dye being visible? Does it have any effect on printing? From what I've looked at, Tri-X should be clear, like what Tom mentioned, hence why I tried the double fix. For all intents and purposes, the negatives were clear- just too clear!(3) “Purplish tint” is most likely anti-halation dye. Removing this dye will result in clear negatives (which is how TriX should appear).
I've been using 1+4, but in a 600ml working mix, so 120ml Rapid Fix + 480ml Water. I'll mix up a full litre next time to meet your recommendation. 1:9 is for prints, right?Did you use the 1+4 dilution for the fixer or 1+9? Either way, 2 min is too short. With 1+4 dilution (200 ml of concentrate in 800ml of water) to make 1L, I fix for 4 min, except for Tmax films that take longer to clear the magenta stain.
Your negatives look both under developed and under fixed.
This is pretty much the workflow I have, though I use a water stop-bath.Black and white film development is an extremely simple 5-step process that goes (1) developer, (2) stop, (3) fix, (4) wash, and (5) hang to dry. Each step comes with a few basic guidelines that, as a beginner, if you follow them you will always come out of there with printable negatives.
1. Developer: always follow the development times, associated temperature (use a temperature adjustment chart if you can't have 20ºC), and, when provided, agitation patterns suggested by the manufacturer either of the film or of the developer. Do not use the Massive Dev Chart or times and temps you may have "read online somewhere".
2. Stop bath: always follow the minimum time suggested by the manufacturer. For safety measure, you can add time with no consequence. Always use for the amount of films suggested by the manufacturer
3. Fix: Same as Stop bath
4. Wash: Use either Ilford wash sequence or wash in sink according to manufacturer's suggested time
5. Hang to dry: pick a spot without dust
A bit of Photo-Flo after the wash is a good thing, but you can live without it.
That is a fair point!Apart from that, that's it. Follow this, you'll get printable negs. Whether or not they are printable "with ease," relative or not, is another matter, but they will be printable in a satisfactory manner.
Alright, thanks. I'll try to avoid going under 20c in the future. Do you recommend checking the temperature every minute?I think your temperature control could be rethought. You can develop B&W film anywhere between say 68-77 F (20-25 C) with good results as long as you read the right time off a time/temperature chart. (You could probably go warmer but there is no benefit). However, as you go below 68 F/20 C, the activity of the developer drops and you have to extend development. So in your first try, the time was too short _and_ the developer was of order 1.5-2 C too cold, which isn't a lot but it demands a 10-15% increase in developing time.
So, just get the developer to somewhere at 20 C or slightly higher and read a time-temp chart to understand how to compensate. You don't need to worry about small variations like a half degree C or 1 deg F variation over the course of developing. If it does warm up or cool down by ~0.5-1 C over time, you can adjust the developing time slightly to compensate. Because you are diluting to make the working solution, it should be simple to get the developer somewhere between 20-25 C by adding cool or warm water as needed.
I was slightly worried about the fixer being too warm, and the developer, for that matter, erring on the side of cooler. That being said, I was wrong, so forgetting about that.For the fixer, the exact temp doesn't matter. Just get it somewhere between 20-25 C and fix for longer. Nobody ever died from fixing 50% more than the absolute minimum time.
I haven't heard of letting it sit.
Where do I find a temperature adjustment chart?
I've been using 1+4, but in a 600ml working mix, so 120ml Rapid Fix + 480ml Water. I'll mix up a full litre next time to meet your recommendation.
I've been doing this method for years. I don't see the point in letting the tank sit for 15 minutes when the whole idea behing the method, as Ilford states, is to make the wash faster.
From the first post: “The camera’s white balance was off…”
??????
Where do I find a temperature adjustment chart? I have never heard of one before
Alright, thanks. I'll try to avoid going under 20c in the future. Do you recommend checking the temperature every minute?
I was slightly worried about the fixer being too warm, and the developer, for that matter, erring on the side of cooler. That being said, I was wrong, so forgetting about that.
If the fixer is within the 20-25c range, do I need to worry about fixing more than 4 minutes?
IIRC I got that information from an old post on this forum? If I will try to find the thread and follow-up. That said, I had been using the sequence exactly as you indicated (from Ilford) with no bad results (of course, lacking sophisticated test equipment/procedures, I might not ever really know … given my age). Thank you for the inquiry, though. Saving an extra fifteen minutes is a good thing. I wonder if the Ilford procedure works as well for T-Grain films?Neither have I. Here's the Ilford instructions :
View attachment 410744
I've been doing this method for years. I don't see the point in letting the tank sit for 15 minutes when the whole idea behing the method, as Ilford states, is to make the wash faster. Also, having the film sit in water which still has some fix in it seems rather counterproductive.
@TomR55 : where did you get the sitting part from ?
Naked Photographer did a test of the effectiveness of the Ilford three step method in one of his videos, BTW:
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