MattKing
Moderator
Still too much contrast, but who can tell how much originates in the film and how much originates in the scans.
Still too much contrast, but who can tell how much originates in the film and how much originates in the scans.These are better, but I'm still not satisfied. Tri-X 400, 1/500th, F16, Rodinal 1:50, 12 mins. 10sec agitation each minute.
These are still much to grungy for me. Not sure if it's the camera/film combo, for film/developer combo, or what. But these aren't doing it for me.
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They will probably look better as a wet print. What was the lighting like that day? Looks overcast, images look about right for such flat lighting.
.As such, if the pics are still grungy to you then maybe the combo isn't right and the solution is to abandon it and feel liberated. It's a great feeling to be liberated
pentaxuser
I‘ve just never ever been overly concerned with temperature, but I’ve always used D76 or similar too.
When I do this roll in the morning I’ll ice bath the solution to 68 and be extremely well timed on agitation etc.
If the scanner operates the same way when doing both straight scans then it has to be that the meter was fooled into overexposure for the rocks, doesn't it?
Thanks It suggests to me that the rocks' exposure needed to be different from the sea-front scene. I have an Agfa Isollete I with very limited speeds of only three and no metering at all. As a result of that I tend to use one aperture setting and one of the speeds but it is a compromise and as a result my contact sheet always show quite a variation between the shots. The same aperture and shutter speed is OK and there may be little scope for variation with the camera involved but it is not ideal in my opinionThe second roll (rocks and bike negatives) were shot with the Yashica Minister D. Every frame on that roll was shot at ISO400, F16, and 1/500th. I metered a few spots with the "pocket meter" app on my phone, and left it there.
Increase exposure - an EI of 200 rather than 400 (Rodinal doesn't always give full speed).
Decrease development by 15%
Compare the results.
That being said, HC-110 is a good alternative. Photrio's Jason Brunner likes 1 + 49 dilution, and that works quite well:
https://www.photrio.com/forum/resources/hc110-made-simple.220/
(effectively this is the same as HC-110 dilution E).
HC-110 may appeal to you a bit more if you increase exposure a bit - try EI 250 or EI 320.
And you need to be careful to ensure that you use enough of the HC-110 syrup - Kodak recommends a minimum of 6 ml syrup per 135-36 roll. So that means a minimum of 300 ml of 1 + 49 working solution.
I was planning on using HC-110 at the "Dilution H" rate, which is half of Dilution B but double the development times.
I don’t like you. You seem like a largely curmudgeon of a person. I have yet to read a positive word about anything, or anyone from you.
I‘ve just never ever been overly concerned with temperature, but I’ve always used D76 or similar too.
Mind you, this temperature thing is not just Rodinal. Mostly all developers are sensitive to temperature (with a few exotic exceptions). You'll need to have a thermometer and use it. Which means:I think I'm going to have to go back to D76 or HC110.
Okay, that explains your grainy result. I use 13'@68 1+50 and always get negs that meet my expectations. If you develop at MDC recommendations you should do well. I also agitate for 5 sec per minute so I don't blow out the highlights. Let us know how you fare tomorrow. Good luck!!
Nothing wrong with your photos. In the sky some grain, but that is not bad. I always use Rodinal 1+25 with Trix, @400 box speed. I find this a nice combo, here are two examples:
Nice, Darko, 1+25 adds a nice 'punch!' Feels like Salgado!
They're underexposed. 1/500 @ f/16 is for full sun, which you don't have in these pictures, and even then will often leave the shadows with too little detail. And in Rodinal, TriX probably doesn't reach ISO 400 anyway. I'd try with two stops more exposure in this lighting, maybe even three. The underexposure means that you, or your scanner driver unbeknownst to you, need to bring up contrast in the shadows, which increases grain. Obviously you need to rethink your metering, educated guessing (sunny 16) should be more accurate than this.These are better, but I'm still not satisfied. Tri-X 400, 1/500th, F16, Rodinal 1:50, 12 mins. 10sec agitation each minute.
These are still much to grungy for me. Not sure if it's the camera/film combo, for film/developer combo, or what. But these aren't doing it for me.
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The surface area of 135 film and 120 film is almost the same so the same minimum amount applies to both. Some use it as low as 5ml minimum, others say 6ml so you did use Afga's minimum.Also, I was reading this post and the thought occurred to me that I only used 10ml of Rodinal in 500ml of water. If the minimum recommendation is 6ml per 35mm roll, shouldn't I have used 12ml? Would the missing 2ml of rodinal have any effect in any measurable or observable amount?
The surface area of 135 film and 120 film is almost the same so the same minimum amount applies to both. Some use it as low as 5ml minimum, others say 6ml so you did use Afga's minimum.
So, No, I don't believe that 2 ml would make any difference
pentaxuser
It's not the temperature itself it's variations in temperatures in the rest of the processing when the emulsion is softer causing sudden expansion or contraction of the emulsion, and grain clumping also called micro-reticulation.
In fact modern Rodinal is worse as it now has excess Hydroxide, and that softens films further. Some people get increased grain and even actual reticulation with Rodinal and Fuji Acros when they don't control the temperatures properly. Tmax 400 can also give increased grain
Every stage Dev, Stop, Fix & wash needs to be +/- 1° C, or as close to that as possible.
It can happen with any developer & film, but Rodinal is more prone to it because of the hydroxide which is not used in many other developers.
Ian
Nice, Darko, 1+25 adds a nice 'punch!' Feels like Salgado!
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