But would it hurt, other than that it looks kind of nasty? As far as I can tell, the presence of these dyes has no detrimental effect on development.Eventually the developer goes very dark, maybe even black, and is heavily loaded with acutance dye, spectral sensitising dye, antihalation dye, and speed trimming dye.
There is a strong reason for pre-washing film if the developer used is replenished rather than one shot.
I can develop two rolls of 120 film in 1 litre of Xtol. At the end of development I replenish at the rate of 90ml per film.
This means that 82% of the original developer plus 18% of new developer goes back into the 1 litre stock bottle.
It also means 82% of all the dye that those two rolls of film gave off is now in my 1 litre stock bottle.
The next two rolls will also leave 82% of their dye in my 1 litre stock bottle; and so on.
The dye accumulates much faster than the replenishment rate can take it out.
Eventually the developer goes very dark, maybe even black, and is heavily loaded with acutance dye, spectral sensitising dye, antihalation dye, and speed trimming dye.
Pre-washing film avoids this nasty conclusion for developers used and replenished for a long time. My Xtol has been in continuous use since 2007 and it is still only the colour of weak tea. I always pre-wash.
According to a documentation from JOBO, you can either do a five minuts pre-rinse or not do it at all, as pre-rinse less than five minutes MAY cause uneven development. You can find the links to the document below.
I agree with above that this is not definite. Any suggesting you find may serve only as a starting point for your own trial. But in my experience, if you are satisfied with unpre-rinsed film, there are little good reasons for you to start.
Links: http://www.jobo-usa.com/images/manuals/introduction_to_processing.pdf. Relevent information can be found under Black and White Photo Processing in Depth.
PE said he always pre-washed. Color and B&W.
Good enough for me.
none other than getting everything p to the same temperature.
For one shot solutions
Indeed! For re-usable solutions prewashing makes a big deal. It takes out most of the anti-halo dye and it keeps the developer cleaner. In several cases you get cleaner negatives too. Some brands leave a reddish-brown hint of colour on the negative at the end, that you cannot get rid of even with longer than usual washing. Pre-washing helps by quite a bit with it.
Yes, indeed! For consistent results I compensate over time when I get the slightest feel that the replenished developer starts to get less active.A prewet also slightly dilutes reused and replenished solutions over time, so something to keep in mind.
But don't forget the manufacturer of the equipment instructions also. They have done the testing with their equipment that the film manufacturer might not have done.Seems the best answer is - read the manufacturers instructions and see what they recommend. Good idea.
Seems the best answer is - read the manufacturers instructions and see what they recommend. Good idea.
Call me stupid or mad (or a crazy European), but I prewash for 10 min. (yes ten) on a rollerbase ...
Because it has consistently worked well for many of us - in some cases for decades.Why would anyone in there right mind pre-wash? Unless the film is dirty.
because they consider it harmless, but not necessary.
It possible also has to do with the a consistency issue - that Ilford recommended processing data was without pre-wetting and the recommendations may be different with pre-wetting. If one can figure out the difference, then it really does seem to be a d if you do; d if you don't!That about sums it all up.
Or to put it another way, damned if you do and damned if you don't.
...far more important things to worry about when developing film like is there enough beer in the fridge.
I pre-wet for about ten minutes...without rushing,
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