As some here might know, it's been a while since I've been able to get into my darkroom -- one thing and another, not really pandemic related, but just that my spare time keeps evaporating.
It's been even longer since I've mixed developer other than by opening a commercially packed bag or bags and pouring the contents into water. I've had many good results back a few years with home-mixed Parodinal, Caffenol variants, and D-23. One exception, I did mix a single tank quantity of Borax-Accelerated D-23, with added benzotriazole, to develop a roll of Verichrome found in a Vest Pocket Kodak (film surely exposed before 1960) -- but I haven't scratch-mixed developers intended to keep longer than same-weekend since I was pushed out of my old darkroom around 2008.
Today, I started to break that drought; I mixed 250 ml of Parodinal concentrate. I used my newly acquired borosilicate beaker set (the 400 ml was conveniently sized) as a mixing vessel, my new Kitchen Tour coffee brewing scale to weigh the ingredients, and a single serving glass bottle upcycled from an 8-pack of club soda as the storage bottle.
I do need to find a better way to hold chemicals on the scale than coffee filters; the sodium hydroxide likes to stick to the paper (fortunately, loss of a tenth of a gram or so isn't a big deal in Parodinal). I hope, tomorrow, to mix up five liters of EcoPro and maybe get time to mix two liters of D-23 and half a liter of DK-25R.
As some here might know, it's been a while since I've been able to get into my darkroom -- one thing and another, not really pandemic related, but just that my spare time keeps evaporating.
It's been even longer since I've mixed developer other than by opening a commercially packed bag or bags and pouring the contents into water. I've had many good results back a few years with home-mixed Parodinal, Caffenol variants, and D-23. One exception, I did mix a single tank quantity of Borax-Accelerated D-23, with added benzotriazole, to develop a roll of Verichrome found in a Vest Pocket Kodak (film surely exposed before 1960) -- but I haven't scratch-mixed developers intended to keep longer than same-weekend since I was pushed out of my old darkroom around 2008.
Today, I started to break that drought; I mixed 250 ml of Parodinal concentrate. I used my newly acquired borosilicate beaker set (the 400 ml was conveniently sized) as a mixing vessel, my new Kitchen Tour coffee brewing scale to weigh the ingredients, and a single serving glass bottle upcycled from an 8-pack of club soda as the storage bottle.
I do need to find a better way to hold chemicals on the scale than coffee filters; the sodium hydroxide likes to stick to the paper (fortunately, loss of a tenth of a gram or so isn't a big deal in Parodinal). I hope, tomorrow, to mix up five liters of EcoPro and maybe get time to mix two liters of D-23 and half a liter of DK-25R.
Is photographer's formulary still the go-to for ingredients, or have other sources emerged?
I can think of 1 local place that keeps some of the "classic" cleaners and such on the shelf.
the little plastic cups that we get hummus in.
Oh, nice. My partner has a bunch of those, bought for something related to the reef aquariums. I'll make off with half a dozen, more compact in the darkroom than the big red cups and they should be big enough to hold 100 g of sulfite, at least.
I was going to order in a few plastic scoops like the ones in the Raisin Bran ads from the "two scoops of raisins" era to use for getting powders out of bags, those dose cups would be cool, but I don't need the pass-through handle.
Just a recommendation, obviously do as you like. But it's hard to do an experiment with 20ml of solution in a beaker.@relistan While this is true, my beaker set will take on that task. And unless the chemicals involve strong acids or bases, or solvents like acetone (unlikely, other than sodium hydroxide or sulfuric acid) the little sample cups or 35 mm film cans can do the job as well.
I do need to stop by the Big Box store and get a can of root killer for drains -- that's pure copper sulfate. In an acidic solution, that makes the first step of a two-step bleach I want to try (copper sulfate followed by ammonium hydroxide is supposed to dissolve image silver without affecting undeveloped silver bromide and iodide). The bleach is less toxic than dichromate and won't soften gelatin like permanganate.
But it's hard to do an experiment with 20ml of solution in a beaker.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?