I wa
I was getting similar results with my Kodak fixer. I mixed this fresh a day before the development.
I was getting similar results with my Kodak fixer. I mixed this fresh a day before the development.As fixer gets older extend the time. Fix for 10 minutes. After that is fixing is not complete mix new fixer.
I wa
I was getting similar results with my Kodak fixer. I mixed this fresh a day before the development.
By any longer do you mean the recommended 5 minutes or double the recommended time rule of 10 minutes?I wouldn't expect Double-X to take any longer to fix than Tri-X; both are convention (= cubic) grain films, albeit Tri-X is the most up to date, evolved cubic grain I know of (with the possible exception of Ilford FP4+ and HP5+).
However, if what you are seeing is at least partially due to the negatives being low in contrast, that may be due to the fact that the film is designed to be developed to a lower contrast.
For some reason the sides perforation curled to a point getting tore in a few spots.
I am at a new place. Yes it has to be the water. Cleaned with isopropyl alcohol cleaned almost everything.This could be due to a problem with the film (cine perfed) getting cocked up on the sprockets in the camera. Shouldn't happen with Cinestill; theirs is confectioned for them (hence why they can offer it in 120) and has still film perfs, but if you're using 5222 from any other source...
Any case, I agree, nothing muddy looking there, but you've certainly got something in your wash water. Sloughing of oxidized rubber from the wash hose, perhaps? Or junk in well water, if applicable, or junk from your pipes.
I've added a detergent rinse step after fixing when developing films in 16mm; a small drop of dish soap with a modest flow rate and constant agitation until the water is clear. I sometimes see similar artifacts at high magnifications, probably due to remjet contamination in my case.
Maintaining the process temperature while washing the film can help prevent debris from adhering to the emulsion as well.
I strongly you read and follow directions.
Mind digging up a few links? The wash is a step for a particular tank I use for 16mm cine film; an appropriate detergent seems like it could help dislodge physical debris, especially from hand-rolled film.
Finish with a distilled water & photoflo rinse otherwise, like a gentleman
Photo Engineer's posts about not using detergents referred to the fact that all commonly found detergents have things like perfumes in them which are, at the very best, of uncertain effect on films.Mind digging up a few links? The wash is a step for a particular tank I use for 16mm cine film; an appropriate detergent seems like it could help dislodge physical debris, especially from hand-rolled film.
Finish with a distilled water & photoflo rinse otherwise, like a gentleman
I got a blank roll of 120 film after running it through the RB67. I figured out what went wrong. In my rush to get out the door and to location before the fog lifted, I loaded the film so that the film was facing the back of the magazine. I've used this camera since 1992, and never made this error. I also forgot my tripod, so had to hand hold. I shot a video, but didn't know of the screw up until after development. All I could do was laugh!
Here is a recent upload...
I did that once in the Hasselblad. Only once. Many do that once. Rarely does that happen again. Once is enough.
I wish I did it once and only once in 1992, not 2022!
My Hasselblad loading error, which has happened to me twice, is not getting the film under the perfectly placed little Clamp that aids in inserting the roll holder into the shell of the back. I noticed the film crank turning hard opened up the back to see what was going on.
Too much time on Bronicas.
Mamiya 645 pro Tl and RZ67 forever!Dump the Bronicas, leave the Dark Side and come to the Hasselblad side.
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