As you can see it's about processing errors.Surprised they didn't put "darker band along edge of film or edge of frames" after "lighter band along edge of film".
As most film cameras are getting older, light leaks happen and light seals fail.... also my stupid bulk loader has a pinhole light leak that over a long period of time gets to the edge of the film inside it... I have to store it in a black plastic bag.
Yes, but how many films did you use to do all of those?Yep, been there, done all of those!
Mike
Am I the only one who thinks the over developed negative density looks about right?
Leaving aside edge density, which is a product of scanning negatives and makes every example look like it wasn't fixed properly, and the fact it's an interior shot apparently without flash, I'd be reasonably happy to get the tonal separation shown. There's little difference in the rebate density between over exposed and over developed examples. The clearest areas (densest blacks) appear lighter than the film base (must be an optical illusion), and the darkest parts of the negative still show detail. The only indication the negative is over-developed is slight bleed on the edge numbers, but as it's no worse that the over exposed image, and we're having to interpret what we're seeing through a contact scan, I still reckon it is no more than slightly over-dev'd, if I'm interpreting what I'm seeing properly.Yep, I'll bet when you talk you hear you voice echo because you are the only one in the room.
This should be a sticky. Mainly to do with development errors.
https://www.ilfordphoto.com/common-...lnJapcdY80Pk5mE&___from_store=ilford_brochure
If you use an acid stop bath, you can perform most (in some case all) of the fixing step in room light.How do you "Check the progress of a films appearance when fixing it before moving on to the wash stage"?
So I can try to fix further a day after when the film is dry?Are you asking about whether it is fixed fully or whether it is developed the right amount?
For fixing you cut off the tongue of your film, put it in a small jar with the fixer you will be using, time how long it takes for the film to completely clear then double the time for fixing
If you cant do that then go by the manufactures nominal time. If the fixer is weak and the film still has the white cloudy silver halides then you only need to put it back into the fixer. You can even do that after the film is dry if you only notice it then..
Yes you can, should be no problem at all. Done so myself even some weeks later.So I can try to fix further a day after when the film is dry?
I think I messed up my fixer.
I think i only put 300 ml to 700ml water in my kodak fixer mix and did only 5 minutes of fixing. Serves me right for not checking a leader first.
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