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I actually have a small photobook of Andre Kertesz titled the early years and it's entirely small contact prints. It's a really nice change of pace to see these smaller more intimate prints.

I don't think you can do much dodging or burning with sizes under 4x5. They pretty much have to be straight contacts. Unless you use something like new cocine right on the negative. That may work.
 

cliveh

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I'm curious -- how easy/practical is it to dodge and burn a contact print? For one thing, seems that you'd often be making micro-movements, harder to be accurate with than a standard enlargement.

They are contact prints and you don't dodge and burn. That's what makes them so pure.
 

Curt

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Josef Sudek and Walker Evans made small contact prints. Josef Sudek as small as 645. People of the generation where black and white photo albums were the norm had no problem with small prints. From silver prints back to tin types a lot of history was preserved.
 

doughowk

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For dodging/burning of contact prints I use masks: Rubylith and/or mylar with grease pencil. I place the negative on a light box. Then place the mylar of same size over the negative, then use a grease pencil to cover over areas that you want to dodge. Rubylith works better for those areas you want to burn in.
For exposing I tape the negative to underside of contact printing glass, then visually place the mylar on top of glass. Expose for 1/2 the time with this configuration, then remove the mylar and continue exposing. Its alot of trial & error but does give you some tools.
 

cliveh

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I bet Atget never dodged or burned a contact print.
 

NedL

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I like to make contact prints from paper negatives in 116 and 122 size. Lately I've been using the 122 size more ( 3.25 x 5.5 inches ) but about a month ago I was looking through a "card deck" of the 116 size contact prints and I had forgotten how much I like them. Seeing this post here on APUG got me moving and I pulled them out again. I found one negative that I never contacted and another that might look good with some "faux pop" experiments... so thanks.. this got me going at that size again! I might even make one today!
 

Michael A. Smith

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Dodging and burning on small contact prints is no different that dodging and burning on 8x10s. The on;y difference is that smaller tools are used whencontact printing the smaller negatives.

Michael A. Smith
 

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I bet Atget never dodged or burned a contact print.

hi clive

you are probably right ... neither did fox talbot :wink:
and i agree with you to a certain extant ... some contact prints are meant to be un-manipulated, and some are not ...

its kind of like making paper negatives.
some people refuse to scan them and only contact print them
because they are almost a holy-images or something sacred ..

i scan paper negatives too.
 

Shawn Dougherty

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Shawn makes beautiful photographs. He took mine and Paula's Vision and Technique Workshop in 2010, where he would have seen many of Paula's small contact prints--all mounted and overmatted on 13x15 mount board.
Michael A. Smith

Michael,
thank you. I truly appreciate that. Paula and you have both had a significant influence on my work.
 

Shawn Dougherty

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Dodging and burning on small contact prints is no different that dodging and burning on 8x10s. The on;y difference is that smaller tools are used whencontact printing the smaller negatives.

Michael A. Smith

That's exactly right. I've attached a couple examples of "print instruction sheets" for two of my 6x7cm contact prints and oftentimes they are much more involved than these. I've found that taping or otherwise hanging a straight print in front of you while you work, as a sort of "map", can also help.
 

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Klainmeister

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Jan Pierzak (wherever he's been recently) does some fantastic 6x6cm contact prints on Pt/pd. Love them! He has about 4" mat around them.

As for dodge and burn, get a piece of transparency and a marker. Works great.
 

Shawn Dougherty

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hi vaughn and shawn
have fun cause like anything ... once you make one or two, it will be hard to stop ( i've made around 25 i think, i lost count :smile: )
- john

john,
Thank you for that. I have been considering making something like this for some time now.
 
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Yes. I think so. I found some vernacular photographs in Seattle at Watson Kennedy. They look like a photo hobbyist that printed without an enlarger. They have a magical quality to them. I still have to mount, frame and display the photos.
 

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john,
Thank you for that. I have been considering making something like this for some time now.

happy to help with what might end up being an affliction :smile:

just remember label the wheat/rice paste when you put it in the refrigerator.
it's easy to mistaken it for food and eat it :smile:

john
 

c6h6o3

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My best work is 4x5 contract prints. Does this mean that I'm small-minded? So be it.
 

cliveh

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I think there is something about a contact print from whatever negative size that shows pure integrity of reversal. This is enhanced by the fact that there is direct physical contact between the neg and light sensitive material for positive conversion. It’s almost like a painting that remains the same regardless of whether it is in negative or positive.
 

NedL

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I think there is something about a contact print from whatever negative size that shows pure integrity of reversal. This is enhanced by the fact that there is direct physical contact between the neg and light sensitive material for positive conversion. It’s almost like a painting that remains the same regardless of whether it is in negative or positive.

I find this interesting, but I'm not sure I understand it. I make a lot of paper negatives, and sometimes I like the negative more than my contact print or "inverted scan". This happens especially when there are reflections in water or when there are lots of details in the highlights. Having those details on the dark background in the negative somehow emphasizes them and draws attention to form that is lost after reversing. ( I've speculated that this is similar to how some photographs look better on a white background or a dark one. ) I don't think my non-photographer friends tend to view them like I do though :pouty:

But I get the sense you are talking about some kind of artistic or even physical purity. I've noticed people working with calotypes like to post the negatives, and have heard that they display the negatives. So that production of the original in-camera calotype is the goal. I've had thoughts along these lines with my big paper negative pinhole photos... there's something neat about the idea that the light went directly onto this paper and made this image. But I can't really say why that's different from a polaroid....


I love that series. And I like what Minor White wrote about it.

-Ned
 
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I have this series of pictures of a dear friend that I'd like to present one of these years... Some of the negs are 4x5 and 5x7, and I've been trying to find ways of enlarging the 5x7 negatives without having to purchase a 5x7 enlarger... :smile:
I might just make all of the pictures smaller, thanks to this thread, and make a consistent look to the prints. Thanks for the inspiration!
 
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My latest contact prints are 6x9s printed on a cut up long roll of ilford multigrade iv rc. I turned them into stickers by applying outdoor double sided carpet tape to the backs for a really strong bond. It's fun to leave them around or give them away.
 
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My latest contact prints are 6x9s printed on a cut up long roll of ilford multigrade iv rc. I turned them into stickers by applying outdoor double sided carpet tape to the backs for a really strong bond. It's fun to leave them around or give them away.

When I enlarge I always like a big white border to surround the image. So I print 6x8 on 8x10 paper, for example. That looks nice, and I mount the prints using simple photo corners, and overmat with something like 1/2 of the white print border showing.
How do I accomplish that when I contact print? Ruby lith? Black masking? I haven't found a good way.
 
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