And you can't develop each frame of a roll of film individually. Every 35mm or 120 shot is a compromise in exposure. You make a choice. Then you try to recover when enlarging.
What can you do if given a desired print contrast results in blow highlights or empty shadows?
It was more an overarching question.
Artistic expression. What can you do if given a desired print contrast results in blow highlights or empty shadows? The information is there in the negative, but clipped in a straight print.
That's why I gave a general answer: to make the print look how you want it to look. There might be no problem with the negative but you still choose to dodge or burn some areas.
In the interest of being thorough, I tried to load the CatLABS film onto a Paterson reel and an Arista reel, and, just like @Huss I found it difficult to do. After about 10-12 inches, the film and reel started giving an unusual amount of resistance. I had to start over as I was worried the film was getting stuck in the reel somehow. The second time around, I relaxed my grip and was able to spool the film onto the reel, but the slight resistance persisted. It's not a major issue, but I thought I'd mention it. Perhaps it's best to practice first before developing a roll of critical importance. Has anyone tried loading the film onto a stainless steel reel?
Place the reels in clear water to which you add a few tablets of denture cleaner.
Leave the reels in the cleaning solution for 24 hours. Rinse with clear water.
After the reels are dry, spooling PET film is a breeze.
It sounds strange, but it works.
This actually makes sense. Those cleansing tablets are meant to remove organic residue from plastic (dentures are usually acrylic). That's exactly what they're doing in this application. It also matches what I do, which is to run over the grooved side of each plate with a toothbrush under running water before putting the reels up to dry after use.
What exactly is the gunk people are getting off their plastic reels with toothbrushes and denture tablets?
The most accepted hypothesis seems to be wetting agent residue -- effectively dried-on detergent.
I guess that's why Jobo recommends to not put their reels in a tank containing wetting agent.
Since switching to their reels, I open up the reel after washing the film and dump the film roll into a glass container holding the distilled water/wetting agent mixture used for the final rinse. So far no buildup of anything on the reels.
Yikes, that is unpleasant looking grain structure.
@ Oldwino, Is the grain we are seeing in the film or scanner aliasing? I think that you have produced good tones with your process with diafine. I used diafine with aviphot 80 and EI 50. It also had the same look as this stuff. It will have a place for some.
I think it is partially my quick and dirty scans this morning, and partially being resized/downsized for Photrio. The full sized scans look better.
I think it is partially my quick and dirty scans this morning, and partially being resized/downsized for Photrio. The full sized scans look better.
I really like the tonality and detail you got, in addition to composition and subject matter. It looks like you found your "Goldilocks zone" with this film and developer combination. May I ask how Diafine works out in terms of efficiency and shelf life? The price for a gallon seems pretty high, but the results speak for themselves.
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